Exterminator

Hi guys sorry i have not been around but it is hard being sick and having two small children hopefully i can get some time and i can be around here again just wondering if someone here can help me out with this throttle body coolant bypass mod on my 2007 rdx not sure which hoses to connect or disconnect on my throttle body or if someone can explain or maybe have some pictures that i can look at for the inlet and outlet of the throttle body thanks again

Exterminator

Can someone show me on a 2007 acura RDX throttle body coolant bypass which hoses maybe some pictures Thanks Please

Billsrdx

Should be simple . Simply locate the coolant (IN) and (OUT) lines going to throttle body. Follow them back to see where there going . A lot times they attach to a metal coolant line. I haven't looked at the rdx to see but from there you just take the Inlet and outlet hoses , remove from the throttle body and take whatever hose you have that is long enough and where the inlet and outlet hose connect to the main coolant line , just take ( Single hose long enough ) and connect the 2 nipples on main line. Your just sticking a 1 hose on the 2 nipples on coolant pipe to loop it and keep the coolant flowing., That is it. If you want you can buy rubber caps at your local parts store and cap the throttle body nipples.

CSmoney28

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

It stops hot coolant running through the throttle body which cools down your intake track. Theoretically this would result in a bit more power since the air wouldn't heat up as much. It's nothing you're going to notice though.

The purpose of the heated throttle body is supposedly to prevent the butterfly valve from sticking, though I've never heard of that happening. I live in Utah and have never had that problem after a total of 6 winters between my 3G and 4G TL. Both of which I did this bypass mod to.

CSmoney28

Billsrdx

Very simple mod really. Like the other guy said small gains

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Super simple to do. and should all strive to keep heat temps down/at bay....as heat is the killer of all things.

CSmoney28

Altair

Have taken some pictures when I did this last summer, took 5' after locating the tubing. Will post them if I can find them soon.

No problems using a brass male/male adapter from local hardware store. Could not tell it's there one way or another.

No problems during winter either, Toronto/Canada style.

Please note that the RDX appears to have one of the turbo cooling lines linked in somehow. I have not bothered tracking the lines off the 'pipe install' connector.
If that's the case one cannot use a turn on/off for seasonal optional bypass as described for other acura models, use only a straight bypass adapter.

Poveiro

Hi, Is this about pipe 4 and 11?

Altair

Definitely #4 off the diagram, on my car, but not #11 (no coolant observed in there, did not touch #11).
If you follow closely #4 connects to a tube on the throttle body, and next to that tube there is another tube connection, unmarked. I connected the rubber from number 4 directly to that unmarked rubber, thus coolant (est ~200F) no longer "warms" the throttle body anymore. Unfortunately don't think I can upload pictures yet.
Background info: My mechanic had to bypass the entire "pipe install" #6 connections due to rust & failure at the time, probably similar situation that forced you to do a custom copper pipe there. (Now I have the new part, just not installed yet.)

CSmoney28

The dealership said to wait until failure before replacing it since it’s not leaking at all for me right now.

BuiltRDX

A quick note on this work my "pipe install" failed in the past from rust and i ended up getting hose and bypassing it completely by going from the nipple back by the turbo around the engine and down to the nipple on the top of the water pipe so as not to mess around with union fittings or even touch the intake manifold itself or anything. For anyone interested in this its very simple and you lose minimal coolant if you do it while its cold.
Hose: Heater hose or similar 5/16" ID Length: 4ft (you'll cut about half a foot off in the end after you route it)
Clamps: recommend Vibrant Performance 12236 the factory clamps will not provide tight enough seal on aftermarket hose and rather then use worm clamps that tear into the rubber these are fuel injection style that work amazingly well at providing a tight seal without fatigue.