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some extensions and u-joints later how is it going with it? lol. even if I get this I am not touching it until the weather freakin warms up in the great white north.
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no even with a flexible ratchet extension its just in a terrible area from the top dp and block are in the way for the bottom right bolt. have to get it from underneath but its even worse with the subframe. Im thinking any time i work on this bish its going to be like with the civics, faster to just drop the subframe and work on the entire motor
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Everyone removes it through the top!
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Originally Posted by 420Coupe
(Post 14792716)
no even with a flexible ratchet extension its just in a terrible area from the top dp and block are in the way for the bottom right bolt. have to get it from underneath but its even worse with the subframe. Im thinking any time i work on this bish its going to be like with the civics, faster to just drop the subframe and work on the entire motor
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Success?
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Unfortunately no luck stripped lower mount bracket so have to order a new bracket or rethread. And still have been unable to find a way to remove that last bolt without removing the axles looks like I'll be removing both tomorrow or Tuesday's depending if the local dealership has the piece or not
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Remember you have to remove plastic brace between engine and sub frame to allow the engine to rotate forward.
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Originally Posted by Richie v6
(Post 14793371)
Remember you have to remove plastic brace between engine and sub frame to allow the engine to rotate forward.
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Originally Posted by 420Coupe
(Post 14793627)
That's how I stripped the threading that mount is removed
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Originally Posted by Richie v6
(Post 14793804)
You stripped the big bolt?
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Originally Posted by 420Coupe
(Post 14794130)
Not the bolt but stripped threading in the hole for the two screws going from the mount to block. Successfully got that pos nut off. It's stripped to shit but it's off
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How did you POS nut off? Did you pull the axle and shaft or did you get to it from the top?
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Originally Posted by mack1611
(Post 14794432)
How did you POS nut off? Did you pull the axle and shaft or did you get to it from the top?
Now my question is I hear a faint hissing not sure if that's the sound of the turbo spooling or an exhaust leak... No CEL or nothing so great news just put 10 miles on her so not much time behind the wheel. But first impressions you can definitely feel a boost in power and it's not loud at all with the stock exhaust. I can't wait till I'm done tuning lets see what we get out of her. Also wanted to thank RV6 for hooking it up with a sick piece of work! How tight is the clamp supposed to be holding the downpipe to midpipe? |
Originally Posted by 420Coupe
(Post 14794720)
No did not remove axel and shaft. Pulled from the top, heat shields have to be removed as well as a bracket holding the cat in on the bottom just remove it from the block. In order to get that bolt you need a rotatable wrench with many teeth as there's barely any room to move it also a large piece of wood with an indent cut out. Been using that to apply force then nut finally came loose.
Now my question is I hear a faint hissing not sure if that's the sound of the turbo spooling or an exhaust leak... No CEL or nothing so great news just put 10 miles on her so not much time behind the wheel. But first impressions you can definitely feel a boost in power and it's not loud at all with the stock exhaust. I can't wait till I'm done tuning lets see what we get out of her. Also wanted to thank RV6 for hooking it up with a sick piece of work! How tight is the clamp supposed to be holding the downpipe to midpipe? |
Originally Posted by 420Coupe
(Post 14794720)
No did not remove axel and shaft. Pulled from the top, heat shields have to be removed as well as a bracket holding the cat in on the bottom just remove it from the block. In order to get that bolt you need a rotatable wrench with many teeth as there's barely any room to move it also a large piece of wood with an indent cut out. Been using that to apply force then nut finally came loose.
Now my question is I hear a faint hissing not sure if that's the sound of the turbo spooling or an exhaust leak... No CEL or nothing so great news just put 10 miles on her so not much time behind the wheel. But first impressions you can definitely feel a boost in power and it's not loud at all with the stock exhaust. I can't wait till I'm done tuning lets see what we get out of her. Also wanted to thank RV6 for hooking it up with a sick piece of work! How tight is the clamp supposed to be holding the downpipe to midpipe? some flex pipes can cause hissing wonder if thats what you are hearing?? |
It sounds like its coming from something near the downpipe which is why I'm thinking turbo only hear the hissing when in park which is why I thought turbo cause i sits at a higher rpm then when in drive
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On this product we used a turbo flex with interlock. It is the most robust intended for forced induction. The hiss or can of bee noise is caused by using the flex sections without in inner lining.
http://www.vibrantperformance.com/ma...nding_page.php |
Any feedback guys?
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install time still pending...
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Originally Posted by shivaswrath
(Post 14846510)
install time still pending...
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Originally Posted by BU
(Post 14846552)
Hahaha same here
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im in Afghanistan... its sitting at my friends house... :(
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If anyone wants to bring their RDX to Chicago. We can install the downpipe at a discounted rate and do a proper write up at the same time.
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how much for the downpipe and install?
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Originally Posted by exist12
(Post 14851424)
how much for the downpipe and install?
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Richie your going to to a DIY on the install? If I wasn't a 1000 miles away I'd bring my RDX to you this weekend.
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Originally Posted by mack1611
(Post 14851931)
Richie your going to to a DIY on the install? If I wasn't a 1000 miles away I'd bring my RDX to you this weekend.
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What is the tubing wall thickness?
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Install pending here as well. I kind of want the high flow cat now as well so I don't know how to go about it.
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Any luck on a write-up for this? Installation steps and required tools would be nice, if possible. From reading the thread it doesn't seems like the easiest swap.
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Couldn't wait, had a shop flash with HONDATA and do the install.
It's a BITCH....it took 3 hours for the shop, including dropping axles, removing other items, etc. The original estimate was 2 hours. Smile on my face is priceless. |
I got the DP installed done on past Tuesday as well.
4 hours works include changing new spark plugs and fix my windshield fluid nozzle problem. DP worth the money. Now waiting for Hondata flashpro calibration |
Originally Posted by Lanesky_OH8RDX
(Post 14853572)
What is the tubing wall thickness?
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Any progress on the DIY?
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Originally Posted by mack1611
(Post 14899362)
Any progress on the DIY?
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Subbed to see what the DIY is like. I cant afford the part right now. But when I can the difficulty of install will help me decide which mod to do on my rig first.
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Originally Posted by Richie v6
(Post 14900404)
Not yet, haven't heard back from the local guy.
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Originally Posted by FC2012RDX
(Post 14920787)
Any updates on this? Weather is about to turn and I would like to have a sort of guide to follow if I'm going to do a DIY installation. Otherwise, I wouldn't really want to spend additional money to get it installed so I'll just end up selling the brand new part. Thanks for your help in advance.
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I too would like to see a DIY before purchase.
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7 Attachment(s)
Here are the OE procedures. Book time is 4 hours for the install. Its not dead simple like installing a intake or light bulbs. However it is doable by the fairly confident diyer. I highly recommend removing the axle and intermediate shaft. We spent a few hours trying to remove the downpipe without pulling the axle and intermediate shaft, before we gave up and just pulled them. The bolt on lower ball joint makes the job super easy. It took us maybe 15 minutes to pull them. You can rent a axle nut socket at autozone.
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