Jalper Down pipe

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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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Jalper Down pipe

Ordered from Apler motorsports, full SS with an awesome weld up job. this pipe is rock solid and the turnaround time was very fast. This is my first time posting pics, so hopefully I did it right. No I just need to do the deed of taking out the PITA primary cat. Can't wait to get this mod completed
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736162786/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736162786/[/url]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736161860/[/url]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736160884/in/photostream/[/url]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736160052/in/photostream/[/url]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736158672/in/photostream/[/url]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/84472116@N07/7736155908/in/photostream/[/url]

Last edited by DanRDX; Aug 9, 2012 at 05:05 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:17 PM
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Those flanges look like mild steel.
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Old Aug 11, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
Those flanges look like mild steel.
I concur...
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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Is this pipe still being manufactured? I can't find it anywhere, and I want one!
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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I can have a full stainless downpipe made for $600, or you can get the one pictured above with mild steel flanges from Alper for $650.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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does anybody have any sound bytes/vid of how the rdx sounds with a downpipe
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
I can have a full stainless downpipe made for $600, or you can get the one pictured above with mild steel flanges from Alper for $650.
The pipe is still available. Alper has the jig setup all you need to to is call and he will fabricate one for you, takes about 2-3 days depends on how busy he is. I sent him a factory primary cat that I got from a parted out car for him to use the flanges. He was only able to use the top one which makes a nice a factory fit. Alper is awesome to deal with, fast turnaround time the down pipe is all SS not sure about the flanges the bottom one is the same grade steel as the top one. Overall the DP is rock solid, mounts up perfectly the o2 bung is welded in the same place as the factory cat so the o2 sensor will reach. I paid less that $600 which included shipping.

Now if anyone can come up with a solution to get rid of the CEL I am all ears.

It terms of the sound, there is no material difference. I have an intake so I hear more air than anything and if you listen really carefully you can hear the turbo spinning.

Last edited by DanRDX; Aug 14, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 03:04 PM
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I have my own jig.

How much did you get your DP for? It doesn't look like full SS.

You can definitely hear the turbo whine with the downpipe.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
I have my own jig.

How much did you get your DP for? It doesn't look like full SS.

You can definitely hear the turbo whine with the downpipe.
I did not post a response to get into a pricing argument. I am sure that your pipe is just as good and does everything that a 3" DP should. Now if someone can get us over the CEL issue without having to move the o2 bung to the mid pipe that would be awesome. I have tried the electrical approach (resistors and capacitors) and no success. Anyone tried the extenders with the 90 degree bend?
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 07:05 PM
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Im going with Milled Steel over stainless. Reasons are…. price is right, Going to ceramic coat the pipe, SS is a softer metal then Milled.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DanRDX
I did not post a response to get into a pricing argument. I am sure that your pipe is just as good and does everything that a 3" DP should. Now if someone can get us over the CEL issue without having to move the o2 bung to the mid pipe that would be awesome. I have tried the electrical approach (resistors and capacitors) and no success. Anyone tried the extenders with the 90 degree bend?
Well said - I personally purchase the Down pipe from Jason since he is actually the welder and not selling this as a third party.

Any warranty would be cover by him plus he always follow up on any request you may have.
Might be take a day or two but that is because he is running around doing everything.

There are many actual vendors on this forum that sells the same items or similar but would never post other vendor's name to try to put them on blast about their pricing and quality.

By you posting to try to see who can offers a better price and pointing out this and that - to me it is causing drama...

Last edited by JCRDX11; Aug 15, 2012 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 11:34 AM
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Dan, I think that you will have to try the 90* O2 to see if it will work. I think its only the extended ones (with and without steel wool) have been tried, and they only work for a time. Extending the harness and mounting in the mid pipe (as you know) seems to be the best bet. If you try the 90* let us know the outcome..........cheers
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Old Aug 15, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wspy
Dan, I think that you will have to try the 90* O2 to see if it will work. I think its only the extended ones (with and without steel wool) have been tried, and they only work for a time. Extending the harness and mounting in the mid pipe (as you know) seems to be the best bet. If you try the 90* let us know the outcome..........cheers
I just ordered one, my plan is to use that stuff it with cat material and extend further with a de-fouler that I already drilled out...lets see what happens
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DanRDX
I did not post a response to get into a pricing argument. I am sure that your pipe is just as good and does everything that a 3" DP should. Now if someone can get us over the CEL issue without having to move the o2 bung to the mid pipe that would be awesome. I have tried the electrical approach (resistors and capacitors) and no success. Anyone tried the extenders with the 90 degree bend?
I was just pointing out that it does not look like full stainless and asking how much you got yours for. I have posted with the intention of being undercut to bring the downpipe market price down for you guys.
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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
I was just pointing out that it does not look like full stainless and asking how much you got yours for. I have posted with the intention of being undercut to bring the downpipe market price down for you guys.
I really doubt that-if so; why did you say the following?


Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
I can have a full stainless downpipe made for $600, or you can get the one pictured above with mild steel flanges from Alper for $650.
Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
Those flanges look like mild steel.
Originally Posted by InfamousJamous
I have my own jig.

How much did you get your DP for? It doesn't look like full SS.

You can definitely hear the turbo whine with the downpipe.
If your real intentions was to have the downpipe price go down.
Just sell yours for dirt cheap or pass the information to where you got your down pipe done so the members can get it at the shop rate directly.

Clearly you think people can't see what you are trying to do.
And by you coming back and saying that you are "trying" to help us by bashing on Jason's product so he will lower the price and make your product seems like it was any better is BS.

Anyone paying that amount is best to buy from a business than a person that can go to a shop to have these done.

Everyone can do a little research at their local area and I can guarantee someone can make it for thing for this price.

Have a little respect for other sellers instead of doing what you are doing and maybe someone would have actually purchase one from you in the future.....
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 03:31 PM
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Hey I have alper's full down pipe and test pipe on my car for over a year and have put over 30k miles on the car already and have had no problems at all pipes is still good no cracks. the best is I have no check engine lights till this day.
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 08:32 AM
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Which 'fix' do you employ for the check light?
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wspy
Which 'fix' do you employ for the check light?
I had used the spark plug fouler trick on my mid pipe and haven't had any check light due to the down pipe since the install.

If you are going with just the downpipe - I would suggest to use the 90 degree angle o2 fouler they have on sale on Ebay.

Put a little steel wool (Coarse version) to block the sudden gush of air flow coming thru the pipes.

That should work.
If not; you can always have a local shop make you a custom 3" mid pipe and weld a o2 bung onto it.

Mid pipe is much easier to make and cheaper.
Just the down pipe is a b!tch to get too and not alot of people will have s/s donut available at their shop.
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Old Sep 6, 2012 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by wifes whip
Hey I have alper's full down pipe and test pipe on my car for over a year and have put over 30k miles on the car already and have had no problems at all pipes is still good no cracks. the best is I have no check engine lights till this day.
Which 'fix' do you employ for the check light?
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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ok how can i order alper's also some sound clip would be nice ive been waiting until the check engine light problem was fix sounds kinda like its almost fix xp
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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The easiest way to order is to pickup the phone and call Alpermotor sports. Jay is a very easy guy to deal with. Google Alpermotor sports to get his phone number, if you miss him leave him a message at he will call you back
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DanRDX
The easiest way to order is to pickup the phone and call Alpermotor sports. Jay is a very easy guy to deal with. Google Alpermotor sports to get his phone number, if you miss him leave him a message at he will call you back
Did this multiple times, no replay. Including via email.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by JCRDX11
I really doubt that-if so; why did you say the following?








If your real intentions was to have the downpipe price go down.
Just sell yours for dirt cheap or pass the information to where you got your down pipe done so the members can get it at the shop rate directly.

Clearly you think people can't see what you are trying to do.
And by you coming back and saying that you are "trying" to help us by bashing on Jason's product so he will lower the price and make your product seems like it was any better is BS.

Anyone paying that amount is best to buy from a business than a person that can go to a shop to have these done.

Everyone can do a little research at their local area and I can guarantee someone can make it for thing for this price.

Have a little respect for other sellers instead of doing what you are doing and maybe someone would have actually purchase one from you in the future.....
You need you have some respect. I bought that POS BPV that was damaged, missing screws and fins from you and you had the nerve to be offensive, take my money, and say I had buyers remorse. That thing chocked my engine even on recirc. Nobody would feel comfortable pushing their engine under those conditions. That thing was probably fake too considering the price. I'm still trying to make up for that loss but I'm over it.
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Old Nov 6, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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I have made my contributions to this community. Sold a couple downpipes and midpipes all with positive feedback. I have given and don't need to take anything. If it's worth my time to make some DP's then I will do so, otherwise you guys have other choices as far as producers go.

I got my first mild steel DP from Don/Jason. It cracked but I assumed responsibility even though Don stepped up and apologized for what happened.

When I say it don't look like full SS then I'm telling it like it is. I did my research, experimented with trial and error, and put in work when it comes to the RDX exhaust system. I have gone through different setups so I know what works and how they sound.

I talked to HT and he was interested in using the jig to do a production run but we haven't spoken since I picked up the intake gasket, which I still have yet to install. Maybe you guys can show HT some interest about it and we can collaborate.
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 04:10 AM
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Just hollow out the stock one. I swear with my hollowed out down pipe and 3inch exhaust my car sounds like a ZR1 when I start it up in the morning. Craziness...
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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 08:26 AM
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Ken, how is the meth inj working out for ya?
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 12:56 AM
  #27  
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how much is one of these??
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by KenB350z
Just hollow out the stock one. I swear with my hollowed out down pipe and 3inch exhaust my car sounds like a ZR1 when I start it up in the morning. Craziness...
Since its been over two months since i have heard anything on my DP… I doing this.

So you just Gut out your up stream cat? and replace the downstream cat / resonator/ piping with 3" straight pipe? Stock Muffler ?

Any way you can do a quick vid just for sound?

Do you have the check engine or emissions light?
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 10:42 AM
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@ wspy; I'm waiting to hit the track, I have not sprayed yet. I hope to hit the track next week.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Ok so just as followup to fix the CEL issue with only having the DP installed, please read below...

The fix for the CEL is to buy 1 90 degree bend from ebay, 2 spark plug foulers and heavy duty aluminum foil our CAT media if you have already gutted your mid pipe. First, you drill out one fouler just enough the fit the o2 sensor. Second, you put the cram the heavy duty foil/cat media between the two foulers and screw them together as tight as possible. Third, you cram the 90 degree bend with as much foil/cat media as possible and screw the fouler into the bend. Lastly, screw this setup into the o2 bung on the DP then screw the o2 sensor into the open end of the spark plug fouler. The last part takes serious manipulation and a very cold engine as you will need to loosen the DP to install this into the o2 bung without knocking into anything.

The idea here is to get as much cat media/foil between the o2 sensor and the exhaust and pull the o2 sensor as far away from the exhaust flow as possible.

I did this same thing about after alot of trial and error; no CEL after 2000 plus miles.

Hope this helps.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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OKAY, so how the hell can i get a custom down pipe!? SELL ME ONE!!!
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wspy
Ken, how is the meth inj working out for ya?
Got my boost juice in!
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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WoW intercooler spray ?
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Water/Meth

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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 05:58 AM
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Ken, Start out using the smallest jet available since we cant really 'tune' our fuel system and have to rely on the factory ECU. I think that too big a jet may just make the mixture too rich and thus result in a loss of power instead.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Ah, sorry I misread.

I considered both water meth injection & the IC spray. I just hate modding my car without being able to tune the ECU. Its bothering me.
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Old Nov 13, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Yeah, the small one is rated at 250hp. That's all I need. I'm looking for 100 octane, because hondata said if you have higher octane you could see better performance gain. But, I will open a tread on the matter.
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