I believe it was in a tuner magazine. That's where I got the "idea" that Church had their own custom Hondata reflash program, but in fact it was clarified (by members here) that they were using the same Hondata reflash from Hondata, but had custom build a 1-off exhaust and did some dyno tuning on their own to crank out the 300whp.

 

It was sugessted in his "Project RDX" build but I don't know if it ever made it onto a RDX. I hope it did, but he was talking about uping the size of the IC not moving it. You meantioned in another thread that you wanted to go to his shop, did you ever get around to it?

heres the link: for NoTypeR's "Project RDX"
http://www.vtec.net/forums/one-messa...sage_id=654738

 

Please forgive me for both reviving an old thread AND asking the following question:
Has anyone considered trying a subtle hood scoop application to apply more air directly to the top of the intercooler, for example the Forester 2.5xt (though perhaps less aggresive)?

 

uh no. you will not gain shit by just adding a front mount. thats like saying that adding a intake to a civic lets you beat corvettes.

 

please no.

 

here is a possible start to a custom fmic.

http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.it...=&icJumpPage=1




this setup is built for a civic, but the core is what you are looking for. this setup is only 200$ and is slim and long enough to take in air flow from the front bottom air dam.

If you can fab the pipes and relocate the bpv on the inlet pipe, you should be golden.

now with this being said, if you upgrade your turbo to something bigger this would be ideal and would benifit from it. . adding a front mount on a stock turbo is really only for your looks preference. any tuning that you can get from this would have still been possible with the stock top mount as the tuning on the rdx is that conservitive.

 

If money was no object...I'd swap the IM for an RBB. You'd have a set up similar to a Subaru that way and you wouldn't have the 90 degree bend right before going into the IM. That should also make it easier to fab your piping and what not.

 

What's a IM and RBB?

 

IM=Intake Manifold

RBB=Type of IM found on a TSX.

 

The setup is already like a subaru. The only difference is that its not a flat4 and the turbo is more centered in the back. If you put a forester and rdx next to eachother with someone that didn't know the difference that person would think it was a forester

 

Your newer and may have missed those posts. But in some of my older posts I meantion the scoobies have similar builds, and their problems are ours too.lol. FWIW guys I didn't lose to much to heat-soak -7hp and -10tq (dyno'd) with all mods-dp with back to back pulls on e10.

@ thread: I'd only FMIC only if I have ported&polished/ race Springs/valves/Higher lift cams/ bigger throttle body/ A high flow IM/ then I'd seriously concider a FMIC but right now, the RDX is short of real estate up front.(with all the radiators up there) And plumbing the piping is gonna be hell, I have seen the RDX without its face and I know a possible way but it's way too small diameter for pre-fab tubing and I may have to fab some CFRP to pull off the feat, otherwise the venturi effect on the reduced pipes size will negate any FMIC project in the first place.

Honestly I'd love to see it done

@windowLG, lol, RBB is in short the designation for a K series IM as you now know, but there is a more eluesive and better IM out there: it is the Mugen Civic RR IM (RRC)

http://www.superstreetonline.com/tec...out/index.html

and again I think FMIC, if feasible, is the last upgrade I'd perform as it would yeild the least amount of power per dollar and reduce responsiveness. IMO

 

A FMIC will make the stock turbo lag much more noticeable. Without a bigger turbo, a FMIC is pointless IMO.

 

^ if you read post 46, i sort of said something along the lines of that.. but you would only feel a lil lag at a dead stop.

 

that i highly doubt... not to mention the fact of torque converter may not be able to hold this power. 300bhp, yes. but to the wheel? race gas and water/meth maybe. not on 93 though.
your hondata chip gives u 30hp. full exhaust - another 20-30hp. changing IC location is not really "power" upgrade. bigger core allows lower IAT temps, and lets tunner run higher timing (=more power). but as mentioned above - having a longer piping, will reduce the impact. not to mention the fact that most ebay FMIC are made from inferior materials/designs and in many cases provide even worse performance then stock IC's.
so i do not see how u can get from 240bhp (~200whp) to 300whp... i also believe that stock turbo already runs at high psi ~17... what boost can it handle safely? it can only do so much... there are phisycal limitation to air flow.