ETS Custom Down Pipe **Potential Build**
#1
ETS Custom Down Pipe **Potential Build**
I am talking with ETS to get a Down pipe & mid pipe made for the RDX. I explain to them that it has been done before, but there is no main-steam production, or even a reliable source where we can buy one for the RDX.
I have been apprehensive on making this thread just incase it ends up not being manufactured. But now I need some help from the users on here to increase the probability of this projects success…
Im Looking for a picture of the OEM down-pipe or even a custom down pipe next to a ruler, measuring tape, or meter stick.
or even better someone who would be willing to swing by ETS one day and get some measurements taken.
I have been apprehensive on making this thread just incase it ends up not being manufactured. But now I need some help from the users on here to increase the probability of this projects success…
Im Looking for a picture of the OEM down-pipe or even a custom down pipe next to a ruler, measuring tape, or meter stick.
or even better someone who would be willing to swing by ETS one day and get some measurements taken.
#5
the downpipe will make power no doubt about it.. and ive seen ETS work they make quality products.. the doesnt throw a code is possible but IMO i think a highflow cat is needed on the straight part of the pipe to remedy it
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#8
Had the down pipe on my RDX with no issue what so ever before I traded her in.
Once you have the downpipe - you can't go back.
I took off my downpipe and had the stock one on and hated it.
Made the car slow as hell - it was like a cork was in the exhaust holding back all the power.
#13
I have a down pipe and mid pipe if they need it and i live about an hour and a half away from ets. I also have a 3inch down pipe and test pipe from alper motorsports and i have no problem with it at all. I have no check engine light at all and its been like 40k miles already. If i remember rite alper motorsports is making the down pipe and mid pipe now. But if you guys need me to bring my parts down to ets I will make a trip down to them for you guys just let me know.
#14
I have a down pipe and mid pipe if they need it and i live about an hour and a half away from ets. I also have a 3inch down pipe and test pipe from alper motorsports and i have no problem with it at all. I have no check engine light at all and its been like 40k miles already. If i remember rite alper motorsports is making the down pipe and mid pipe now. But if you guys need me to bring my parts down to ets I will make a trip down to them for you guys just let me know.
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vaprea (01-21-2013)
#17
Great start!
I have a down pipe and mid pipe if they need it and i live about an hour and a half away from ets. I also have a 3inch down pipe and test pipe from alper motorsports and i have no problem with it at all. I have no check engine light at all and its been like 40k miles already. If i remember rite alper motorsports is making the down pipe and mid pipe now. But if you guys need me to bring my parts down to ets I will make a trip down to them for you guys just let me know.
ETS will need 10 paid in full buyers to put this into production, so dont get you hopes up too hight quite yet. Although I will be one of those 10 buyers if it goes down
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BigHatch (01-26-2013)
#20
They build high quality product.
It was a success from ETS TMIC for RDX.
We are all mostly if not all return ETS TMIC customers.
We are aiming for Full Stainless Steel DP & MP.
Let do a 1st Group Buy to keep the price low low low.
That's mostly the reason why previous production don't sell.
If people read the estimate over $1000+ for DP & MP.
Very few will shell out those much coins.
Just my
BU
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vaprea (01-27-2013)
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vaprea (01-27-2013)
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vaprea (01-27-2013)
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vaprea (01-27-2013)
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vaprea (01-27-2013)
#32
So I have only had my '08 RDX for a few months now. I am really wanting to play with it some. Can we get away with NOT having to buy the Hondata if we do a CAI, TMIC, and this Pipe? Will all this breathing and exhaling be too much for the stock ECU?
#33
Plus more bang for your buck.
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dr427 (02-18-2013)
#37
I beg to differ - where are you getting this information from?
I had the hondata reflash and down pipe and in fact it ran leaner.
Reflash doesn't seem to do well with all the aftermarket mods.
I had it with the reflash and all the mod without the reflash.
Reflash is good just alone or at the most a drop in k&N filter.
I had all my mods without the reflash and it seems to be able to pull harder and faster.
The reflash makes your car run leaner - and you adding a intake and all the other mods.
What are you using to monitor your A/F?
Just the CP&E CAI - it raise up a few degree leaner.
The reflash with all the mods would not be good.
Not the Reflash - please don't give him the incorrect information to blow up his engine.
Not hating on you but letting you know the correct information as well for other.
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dr427 (02-18-2013)
#39
Firstly, Hondata leans the RDX right off the bat.
Secondly, the AF is based on the reading of your MAF shroud diameter / o2 sensors.. naturally with even minimum alterations of the o2 sensor location / positioning will change this with or without the Hondata.
In your case you have either altered your OEM DP or replaced it with one of the Frankenstein downpipes being produced.. which have endured minimum testing.
I can assume that the leanness you are encountering is far from being remotely lethal to your engine. I can also say with confidence that your "butt dyno" results are nothing but a distraction from the fact that we have NO real data to make claims of which you are.
I think from a nonfactual standpoint, the Hondata is the best bang for your $. I will admit that I did make a hasty claim.
Me claiming that Hondata supports other mods "pulling more potential out of other bolt-ons", was merely based on the insight provided by Hondata, claiming they tailored the tune to work in conjunction with other supporting mods.
Secondly, the AF is based on the reading of your MAF shroud diameter / o2 sensors.. naturally with even minimum alterations of the o2 sensor location / positioning will change this with or without the Hondata.
In your case you have either altered your OEM DP or replaced it with one of the Frankenstein downpipes being produced.. which have endured minimum testing.
I can assume that the leanness you are encountering is far from being remotely lethal to your engine. I can also say with confidence that your "butt dyno" results are nothing but a distraction from the fact that we have NO real data to make claims of which you are.
I think from a nonfactual standpoint, the Hondata is the best bang for your $. I will admit that I did make a hasty claim.
Me claiming that Hondata supports other mods "pulling more potential out of other bolt-ons", was merely based on the insight provided by Hondata, claiming they tailored the tune to work in conjunction with other supporting mods.
I beg to differ - where are you getting this information from?
I had the hondata reflash and down pipe and in fact it ran leaner.
Reflash doesn't seem to do well with all the aftermarket mods.
I had it with the reflash and all the mod without the reflash.
Reflash is good just alone or at the most a drop in k&N filter.
I had all my mods without the reflash and it seems to be able to pull harder and faster.
The reflash makes your car run leaner - and you adding a intake and all the other mods.
What are you using to monitor your A/F?
Just the CP&E CAI - it raise up a few degree leaner.
The reflash with all the mods would not be good.
Once again; not true. A flashpro would if they ever make one.
Not the Reflash - please don't give him the incorrect information to blow up his engine.
Not hating on you but letting you know the correct information as well for other.
I had the hondata reflash and down pipe and in fact it ran leaner.
Reflash doesn't seem to do well with all the aftermarket mods.
I had it with the reflash and all the mod without the reflash.
Reflash is good just alone or at the most a drop in k&N filter.
I had all my mods without the reflash and it seems to be able to pull harder and faster.
The reflash makes your car run leaner - and you adding a intake and all the other mods.
What are you using to monitor your A/F?
Just the CP&E CAI - it raise up a few degree leaner.
The reflash with all the mods would not be good.
Once again; not true. A flashpro would if they ever make one.
Not the Reflash - please don't give him the incorrect information to blow up his engine.
Not hating on you but letting you know the correct information as well for other.
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dr427 (02-19-2013)
#40
I had ask Doug the same question and he did not response nor did he back up what HEELTOE stated
Firstly, Hondata leans the RDX right off the bat.
Secondly, the AF is based on the reading of your MAF shroud diameter / o2 sensors.. naturally with even minimum alterations of the o2 sensor location / positioning will change this with or without the Hondata.
In your case you have either altered your OEM DP or replaced it with one of the Frankenstein downpipes being produced.. which have endured minimum testing.
I can assume that the leanness you are encountering is far from being remotely lethal to your engine. I can also say with confidence that your "butt dyno" results are nothing but a distraction from the fact that we have NO real data to make claims of which you are.
I think from a nonfactual standpoint, the Hondata is the best bang for your $. I will admit that I did make a hasty claim.
Me claiming that Hondata supports other mods "pulling more potential out of other bolt-ons", was merely based on the insight provided by Hondata, claiming they tailored the tune to work in conjunction with other supporting mods.
Secondly, the AF is based on the reading of your MAF shroud diameter / o2 sensors.. naturally with even minimum alterations of the o2 sensor location / positioning will change this with or without the Hondata.
In your case you have either altered your OEM DP or replaced it with one of the Frankenstein downpipes being produced.. which have endured minimum testing.
I can assume that the leanness you are encountering is far from being remotely lethal to your engine. I can also say with confidence that your "butt dyno" results are nothing but a distraction from the fact that we have NO real data to make claims of which you are.
I think from a nonfactual standpoint, the Hondata is the best bang for your $. I will admit that I did make a hasty claim.
Me claiming that Hondata supports other mods "pulling more potential out of other bolt-ons", was merely based on the insight provided by Hondata, claiming they tailored the tune to work in conjunction with other supporting mods.
I have a few dyno app and the PLX A/F gauge to monitor the Air and Fuel.
As for you quickly to jump the gun and claiming Hondata was safe with the mods are incorrect.
All the people that had Don's downpipe has been fine with it ever since and that is over a year - some is going on two years.
So as for minimum testing - can you let me know which product for the RDX has intensive testing?
Just a few pulls from the dyno and that is call a good amount of testing?
Or actual clients that owns and been using a product for over a year without any issue?
I was simply providing correct information from someone that actually owns all the products instead of having a intake and reflash and making claims.
As stated from the beginning - I was not trying to hate on your posting.
Hondata reflash might be the best bang for the buck but without any mods on.
But once you start adding more than a drop in filter - it is not ever worth investing in the reflash when other parts provide more solid results.
Plus you cannot combine the reflash with any other part really.
My suggestion is to ask the people with the downpipe for their "real" opinion and experience.
Last edited by JCRDX11; 02-19-2013 at 11:23 AM.
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dr427 (02-19-2013)