I have lots of respect and even admiration for Honda/Acura products and therefore "Mr. Honda". As I have said previously, the SH-AWD systems stands atop ALL other F/AWD systems in my personal opinion. I can only wish, hope, that Toyota/Lexus would wise up and adopt that same system.

But then I have absolutely no respect for NipponDenso, Denso US, Honda's, and almost all other asian manufacturers, resource for automatic climate control systems.

Windshield fogged up lately...??

Designed by idiots, PURE idiots.

 

The guy is 67+ years old. How many people in that age range do you know that are open to new concepts and the "new fangled" sciences and technologies? There's a fairly good chance that he owns a slide rule.

I can absolutely guarantee you that he has nothing better to do, and that he actually finds the fact that you guys get so wound up from his posts just as comical as the smarter people in this forum find his posts, and that he finds motivation in that comedy.

Personally, I've given up all the reality TV that I've been addicted to in favor of the entertainment he provides. Oh, except Dancing With the Stars.

-Mark
http://www.tunerpro.net/

 

No, I think I misplaced my slide rule years ago.

 

That's great, but you still have no idea what you're talking about.

 

I'm going to start a new post on the CP-E cold air intake. I really dont' give c____p if wwest has a slide rule, or not.

 

Will there be any Hondata v2.0 available and can this be really necessary? I'm asking this because there are some other mods may be developed and in fact dyno-graph of RDX looks more promising with Hondata and without the XCel (CP) intake. Maybe buying the K&N is the better option?

I'm talking about the rpms 0-3000.

 

Okay, I've read this thread thoroughly once again (including the Hondata reply https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...6&postcount=24). Also I can't understand why john50 started new string.

Can Doug or smb from Hondata, the company I respect very much, tell me whether the current K23A1ECU-RDX firmware is still actual or there can be an update soon ?

And what if I choose WeaponR CAI instead of the XCel one or there will be a K&N ? What if ?..

PS: Please excuse my lame questions, but I'm nearly 7 thousands miles away from Hondata so I won't have a "second chance"

 

Azzie, Hondata's report states you should be OK with a CAI mod as long as the diameter around the MAF isn't altered. CP-E altered the diameter on their piece which resulted in a somewhat leaner A/F mix, but even with that, the Hondata reflash with the CP-E intake was OK.

When I called Hondata before I bought my reflash, they would not comment on work in progress or development projects. They said only one reflash was on the market.

 

Correction:

Modifying the CSA, resistance to air flow, around the MAF/IAT sensors, within reason, is not likely to modify the A/F mixture. The computational result of the MAF/IAT sensor signal inputs are continuously recalibrated during engine idle and normal engine load cruising using the upstream oxygen sensor.

Insofar as I can tell no one has tested this aspect for ANY of these proposed "performance modifications" post recalibration.

Absent testing in this manner, MIL indication code cleared, there can be no indication, evidence, of performance modification success, negative or positive.

It is not possible for the Hondata personal not to know this so one must assume the correct testing was done but proved to be negative or maybe neutral.

 

Thanks a lot for the replies and it'd be just nice if Hondata post some kinda official answer here. There is also the ATLP exaust being developed. Will this firmware be suitable because it is more preferrable to use firmware with the stock as I can see.

 

My Hondata ECU should be here tomorrow! I'll post my impressions of this modification hopefully this weekend.

Coming from driving and modifying V-8 Mustangs, I'm excited by the prospect of approximately 30 ft/lbs. of torque and 26 HP gains for $1150 and 10 minutes of install time.

 

http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/checkengine.html#reset

Follow the above link and then at the bottom of the page click on the "battery disconnect reset" question.

 

I'm surprised the intake made that much difference. Most stock intakes are pretty good these days. They are pretty much just engine bay glitter on a WRX.

So the stock RDX made about 230 to the wheels. So a conservative 15% loss (automatic plus AWD--it could be even more) makes it about 270 crank. That certainly makes more sense than 240 given the RDX's weight and trap speeds. I think Honda is a little gun shy on hp ratings after the debacle with the Accord and TL a few years ago.

 

the current v6 accords makes more power at the wheels than the tl type s!

 

I came up with 286 using one of the admittedly unscientific internet horsepower calculators. That must be more like a20% loss estimate.

I put Edmunds 1/4 numbers in one and it pretty much hit 230hp to the wheels on the nose.

Wonder why Acura deflated the hp number so much? Think maybe the 240 was based on early testing, and got shoved to marketing too quickly? Or did they want it to be less than the TL V6? Hmmm... Even if they had said 265, it would be a reasonable amount and it would have beat the X3 (which, by the way, it does IRL). It would still be below the MDX, so no worries there.

 

regarding the option of buying a brand new ECU...
will this have any issue with the immobilizer and key recognition when you swap the stock ecu? or will the brand new bought ecu "just work?"

 

Brizey....get this..the accord makes its rated power at the wheels...i should have stated my previous reply a little differently hehe....heres the thing and you could be right...the new TL will have a 'new' V6 rated around 300HP....my guess it will make something around 270 at the wheels...which is exactly what the Accord makes...is the accord's v6 rated lower to hide its higher power for the Acura? same engine? one would venture a guess.....

but this all comes full circle of the brand lowering some numbers to leave room for perceived improvement for future slight MMC's etc. wouldnt surprise me to see around 2010+ the RDX having a higher HP number on the specs

 

You know, BMW doesn't worry about the fact that the X3 makes more power than the 328, because they have the 335 and M3. TL buyers shopping for more power are going to opt for the Type-S. if they said the RDX made 260 or 265, I would think it would help sell more RDX's, not hurt TL sales, and really be a more honest reflection of the vehicles capabilities.

 

It is not really possible for a manufacturer of FWD and/or F/AWD vehicles to compete in the HP/Torque "race". Everyone knows, or certainly should know by this moment in time, that FWD and F/AWD vehicles with high HP/Torque engine capability MUST be dethrottled or somehow derated when the gearbox is in the lower gear ratios.

The SH-AWD system being the only real exception to the above "rule" that I am aware of.

Too much danger, 'WAY too much danger, otherwise.

 

yea i agree...not sure why acura is stuck on staggering their numbers throughout the lineup. current tsx...great example...why keep its numbers so pinned down....

 

wwest I almost ignored your last post but you are right. Mazda does it on the MS3 and Dodge should have done it on the srt-4. They can "compete" is will just end up with a car that has alot of torque steer.

 

Superpowers,

I got the ECU replacement from Hondata recently. There are no issues with the immobilizer, or anything else for that matter. It's strictly plug-and-play. VERY easy upgrade. My RDX feels significantly stronger and quicker, though my impressions are based on my "butt dyno". I don't have any intentions of putting it on a dyno to determine the power. It's a daily driver, and I just wanted a little stronger performance, and something a little better than the average bear. IMO, it's a terrific upgrade. Not cheap, but considering the HP/torque increases and the easy install, it's a good value. 26HP & 33 ft/lbs of torque AT THE WHEELS, so figure 33HP and 42 ft/lbs of torque at the flywheel, assuming 20% drivetrain loss, which I would think is a conservative estimate consider the SH-AWD system. Not bad for $1150 and 10 minutes of work. All Hail Hondata!!

 

I'd, personally, prefer to say Viva La Hondata, but thanks a lot for report. I'm intended to order mine ECU next week via www.r2racing.ru