FlopMeister

Hey everyone,
I have joined the P2263 family now.
Question is, when I google for this part, i get many options, some on eBay, some on amazon. From reading on here, there was difficulty finding the part. But apparently not anymore? The amazon and eBay posts say “for 2007-2012 Acura RDX vgt…”. And they are cheap (under $30). Any input on how to buy one? What should I look for or be aware of?

Tomtwtwtw

They were expensive because very few people had the tools (and design) to machine them. I think the price you're seeing now is more realistic - it is just a bolt, after all. If you can, just check reviews to make sure people vouch for the seller.

DaIll1

There is another option. If you want new diaphragms too you can go here.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2255800...apt=4itemAdapt
I purchased this and put them on before sending my turbo to Blouch for the 20t upgrade. It works perfectly. I also lubed the wear areas with graphite.
Shipping may be a problem now though.

FlopMeister

link goes to general merch page. What specific item am I looking for?

DaIll1

It's the complete turbo actuators for $56.66.
Copy/paste Turbo actuator TD04H Mitsubishi

I tried posting a pic but the system isn't letting me

FlopMeister

Ohhh gotcha. So replace the whole actuator? Don’t bother with just changing that circle thing?

DaIll1

I figured if I have to replace part of it, I'd replace all of it. The diaphragm gets old too. Since I sent the turbo to Blouch for upgrade and had it in hand, I'd do it all. I also lubed the wear points with graphite so It will last longer.

FlopMeister

for $60, probably easier than just replacing that one part

beardedguycollective

i was thinking the same, my code is happening intermittently, and was wondering if it was easier to replace the entire actuator instead of the bolt

FlopMeister

So i am noticing that after i reset and clear the code, it reappears at a specific time/place in my driving. I leave work at 530, after the car has been parked for 10 hours in a ramp. I do about 5 minutes of city driving around 30mph with a 3-4 stoplights. I then get on the highway at 75mph. Everything is fine until I get about another 5 minutes down the road at 75mph and the light/alert pops up. In fact it pops up in nearly the exact same place on the road.
So is the car not warming up proper? Is the car overusing boost & when I get to this spot it is finally dialing the boost back, but can’t bcuz of the malfunction? In other words, it can’t close the valve properly? At this point in my driving, I have reached a cruising speed, after dealing with more traffic. Actually, I go up an incline over an overpass, then being to coast down the other side then around a curve (highway). And usually it trips right around that curve, when I am still coasting.
Any thoughts?
I have tried to examine that metal piece and it does not look worn, stretched, or loose, compared to ones I have seen on here and on YouTube.

Tomtwtwtw

When the bolt is worn out, the light will typically pop up when the car calls for boost and either gets too much or not enough for a given scenario. The worn bolt will impact the car's ability to spool up the turbo in the lower RPM range, and low-gear mile hill climbs on the highway are a perfect situation for that.

FlopMeister

Turbo is bad. Mechanic disassembled & confirmed.

DaIll1

Perfect time to send it to Blouch Performance Turbo for a rebuild/upgrade.

Tomtwtwtw

This^^^

How many miles did you have on the turbo?

DaIll1

My '08 had 163k miles when I bought it and I don't know if it had been replaced. The Amazon/Chinese one I put on while having Blouch rebuild had more power than the stock one, but nothing like the upgraded one.

FlopMeister

I just turned over 150k

FlopMeister

Turbo at autozone is 1600 with core
Partsgeek has a couple listed for 1200. Does anyone have experience with them? Can they be trusted to send the right part? My mechanic said just go with autozone to be safe and sure.

DaIll1

It was $795.00 + shipping for rebuild/upgrade from Blouch. They replace the 15T wheel with a 20T and 12 blade hot side with a 9 blade for higher flow/lower inertia. Mine is quicker than a 2017 Accord Touring V6 and a cammed, headered, fat tired '68 Camaro now, but I did need to do a Hondata Flashpro to prevent overboost code and larger injector mapping.

FlopMeister

it’s crossed my mind. But I would rather just stay stock & not have any worries about upgrade issues or whatever.

Chopperpilot

The Autozone turbo is a Rotomaster by my research for a bit less than $1600 . Rock Auto also has the Rotomaster (M1040133N) for less than $1200 , l did not see anything about core charges either.

According to Autozone’s website,they have a 3 year warranty , something to consider if your shop has the same warranty.

FlopMeister

I am having a local mechanic do the change. He advocates that I buy from a retail store that we know we can go to if we have problems. He’s warranting his work for a year
I will check rock auto.

FlopMeister

1,000 miles on the new turbo getting the error messages again. Emissions check engine light & SHAWD error.
So now what? Bad turbo?