Sensor ( A) is plugged into radiator, and has a cable extending out from it all the way to a connector, let's call that B. B plugs into its matching connector, let's name it C. C has its wires going towards the engine, ... the BC connection is likely within about a foot from the sensor A, just slide your fingers from sensor A. along the wires to find BC connection to separate.

Separate B from C, use the paper clips to short the exposed terminals from C connector, with key in ignition/position II, fan should turn on if you are lucky again. Reconnect B to C for the following idle test.

Thanks buddy. I wonder why the service manual doesn’t have this test.

Thanks for all the info Altair. This has been my favorite car. 2 things I recommend.

1. Change intake every 80-90K miles -mine got a crack around 95k-105k

2. Aftermarket break pads - they really dropped the ball.
i’m getting 2-3x the mileage with these:

Akebono ACT1089 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set
i toots say. It’s pretty sh*tty design to have a radiator sensor failure cause a car’s fans to not turn. I can’t even begin to get into it.

My belt was changed at 70K I think.

Any chance you actually verified a sensor failure by said testing? Please let us know what your results were, your confirmation of a bad sensor would be important info!

Thanks for the tips:

Did find the intake boot ripped, seems was caused by finished engine mounts so I changed those as well.
Don't have any concern with front rotors or pads yet, did change rear pads once -will look into akebono next time...
S-Belt looks like more than 6 years away with current yearly driving ...

Cheers

Too hot to do much and it looks like I have to get under it and/or remove battery to get to the spot.

whatever you do don’t use Acura/Honda pads. They only lasted under 18K IIRC. I went through 2-3 sets of rotors in first 50-60k until I put better pads on.

My brother-in-law hooked the a/c to his gauges and the snap-on computer. The verdict=bad compressor. With compressor on refrigerant high side measured low at 100 psi and low side measured low. Fans are turning on to cool radiator, but apparently they don’t spin at lower temperatures when compressor isn’t working.


He said it was showing many communication errors and then cleared error codes. Now I am showing VSA and S-AWD error lights. I was going to buy a compressor, but he convinced me that getting a local shop to order one would be a better guarantee, and if I brought my own the shop wouldn’t guarantee.

Sorry to hear not good news, at least you found out what is major cause of the A.C. problems.
Keep in mind that at least one fan should eventually spin/turn even when A.C. compressor does not-in order to cool off the radiator...
Any possible fixes for the SH-AWD and VSA, does it even impact your driving? Maybe a weaker battery ...?

Keep us posted when you get more info

Thanks for all the great info everyone, sorry about all the issues your having. I had my compressor fail around 140k miles & right outside of my 120k warranty.