I'm curious when (in mm) and why to replace pads?

My understanding is that the pads should work fine as long as they still have pad material, but when they get thin there is increased risk the pad could break.

I've heard the squeak-alarm starts around 1mm and if you get there you should definitely replace right away.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

-john

('08 RDX)

 

That sounds about right.I haven't heard of any pads actually breaking, but the indicator will start dragging on the rotor once the pads are on their last legs and you will want to replace soon. Still, those indicators can break off from time to time, so don't underestimate the value of a good visual inspection from time to time - every 2-3 rotations, and eventually every rotation when they start to get close to the end. Best to pull off the wheel as well so you can check both the outer and inner pads. For what it's worth, I got about 75k on my original front pads and at 110k I'm still on my original rear pads. Replacement fronts are still holding strong and will probably not need replacing until 150-175k miles based on my last check. I do a lot of highway driving though, so YMMV.

 

There isn't a M.I.D. code for brake fluid; but, it should also be done every 3 years if this is the first time your 08 needed any brake work.

 

Thanks. The reason I ask is the dealer suggested I replace the pads with 3mm left which seemed a bit soon to me. I'll get the fluids done when I change the pads.

Thanks,

-john

 

Don't know how handy you are with cars, but changing pads and brake fluid (gravity bleed is all that is needed) are a piece of cake on this car. Had my rotors turned for $5/each at a local shop.

 

Be sure to inspect both pads at each wheel. The inboard and outboard pads can wear at different rates. At worst, that could allow the inboard pad to wear out without an audible.

And break in your brakes. Season the rotors and bed the pads. Your brakes will last longer and function better.

More info at...

Technical Information - Baer Brakes

Scroll down to rotor seasoning and pad bedding.

 

I just had the front pads in my '08 replaced at around 60,000 miles. They were still stopping fine, but the squeal at low speed braking was driving me nuts.

 

I changed brakes and cut rotors for the first time at 112K. Then again, I do mostly highway driving so probably the exception rather than the normal interval.

 

That sounds about right. I did mine at 75k, but the previous owner (first 48k miles) likely did more city driving than me. I'm now at 111k and the new pads look like they'll be around for a while. Still on original rears with plenty of pad left.

 

For those of you who've changed rotors on your own, what was it like removing the retaining screw on the hub? I've hear it's a real PITA getting them off and I'm about to tackle a full rotor/pad job on my wife's 10 RDX

 

It all depends on what elements the rotor has been exposed to. You're in Colorado - I imagine your car has seen some snow in its day. Worst case just get a special drill bit for digging out screws and you're golden - you do not need to replace the retaining screw so no reason not to go to town to get it out.

 

impact driver

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece

 

I did mine yesterday, and they came out fairly easy with a few blows of an impact screwdriver (and a good soaking in PB Blaster).

That said, my RDX has spent its entire life in Texas.