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The 3" exhaust system is not kicking codes, yay. I called Blouch and they said they won't touch the Stigan replacement turbo so I called Forced Performance. They are investigating what they can fit to it. I asked about breeding a 22t or an 18g cold side with a titanium wheel to it. That should blow the hair back. Custom costs more, but hey, I'm OK with a 12 second RDX. If it all works, I'll be modifying the badge with the R from a Type R. Yep, the stupid is sneaking in.
The console was shredded and I didn't want to replace it with a new vinyl one that would be shredded in no time, so I took it to a local auto upholstery shop and had it recovered with genuine leather for $225
How'd you make out with the turbo modifications and how does the finished exhaust system look?
Still waiting to hear back on the turbo rebuild, it's sitting on my living room floor ready for shipping. I'm waiting for the RV6 downpipe before I can finish the front side of the exhaust, but since I learned how to TIG weld on utube, the welds are amateur. No leaks or anything and it's routed well, just not pretty. I twisted my hand pretty bad, so I'm on hold for a bit before I can put the tips on. I ordered a new intake manifold to send to Extrude Hone and purchased a 65mm J35 throttle body for better breathing.
My welds look like this, no stacked dimes here.
Exhaust is not as loud as I expected it to be through the Black Widow muffler (stock intake and downpipe with both cats) but you can hear the turbo spool, so it's all good.
Not a perfect fit, but close enough to be messaged into place (top pin mounts off by 1/4"). Because EVOs have manuals, transmission cooler on order too.
Would love to see pics of that intercooler once installed.
I was looking at how I'd run the intercooler pipes and decided to change radiator before routing them. After 40 years of plastic manufacturing, I hate plastic tanks that break. I'm hoping to do all cooling systems while the front end is off.
I'm expecting the trans cooler next week, then the fun begins. I will take pics as I go, but no video.
Does that allow recirc or is it vent to atmosphere blowoff? I was considering the turbosmart bov but heard vent-to-atmosphere bovs actually hurt performance over the full recirc stock valve.
Does that allow recirc or is it vent to atmosphere blowoff? I was considering the turbosmart bov but heard vent-to-atmosphere bovs actually hurt performance over the full recirc stock valve.
It can go either way, but I'm going to recirculate even though I plan on tuning for speed density. If running MAF, venting to atmosphere does cause issues. An automatic venting to atmosphere is just wrong.
Does that allow recirc or is it vent to atmosphere blowoff? I was considering the turbosmart bov but heard vent-to-atmosphere bovs actually hurt performance over the full recirc stock valve.
Turbosmart makes a full recirc or a hybrid (partial recirc/partial vent to atmosphere). I ran the hybrid on the Hondata reflash, on MAF street tuned, and now on speed density dyno/street tuned. Zero issues.
I cut off the flange on the RV6 downpipe and put a 3" band clamp at the cat for a full 3" path. I lost quite a bit of low end torque, even running through the 2.5" tail pipe section. It picked up some mid and higher power with no other mods. I'm waiting on some parts so I can swap to a J35 throttle body and ported intake manifold before doing more exhaust work. I may slide a 3"-2" connecter inside for the short term. Long term, I may put an electronic valve to adjust back pressure on the fly in the future.
The accident I had in the ILX blew my L3-L4 disk out and I have to use a walker, so I'll have to pay to get stuff done now. All these parts and no way to make them happen on my own
I just did a datalog with the Stigan turbo, RV-6 down pipe, 3" exhaust and I'm pretty happy with it. Can't wait for the manifold/ throttle body change. I wonder what it will do after the turbo upgrade. Seeing that 29 psi MAP peak surprised me.
I just did a datalog with the Stigan turbo, RV-6 down pipe, 3" exhaust and I'm pretty happy with it. Can't wait for the manifold/ throttle body change. I wonder what it will do after the turbo upgrade. Seeing that 29 psi MAP peak surprised me.
So what mods, if any, have you done on the fueling side of things?
Lots of questions, such as what does the unit "/psi mean and why is the range of the graph 0.1 - 5869, with the readout being near the top most of the run? I do not think this is an apples to apples comparison here.
End of the day, a MAP sensor reads absolute pressure (hence the A and P of MAP), and if you had a car at sea level with the ignition on but engine off, you should get a reading of 14.7 psi from the MAP. Turbo can add to that, and vacuum will subtract from it. So, an engine under vacuum during, say engine braking, would see a MAP readout of something less than 14.7 psi.
So what mods, if any, have you done on the fueling side of things?
The 600cc DW injectors are no longer available so I ordered 750cc and a DW65c pump. E85 isn't available and I don't want to mess with cans. I do add ACES IV treatment to 92 octane pump gas though.
Originally Posted by Tomtwtwtw
Lots of questions, such as what does the unit "/psi mean and why is the range of the graph 0.1 - 5869, with the readout being near the top most of the run? I do not think this is an apples to apples comparison here.
End of the day, a MAP sensor reads absolute pressure (hence the A and P of MAP), and if you had a car at sea level with the ignition on but engine off, you should get a reading of 14.7 psi from the MAP. Turbo can add to that, and vacuum will subtract from it. So, an engine under vacuum during, say engine braking, would see a MAP readout of something less than 14.7 psi.
Using the same software (Hondata FlashPro), he shows 16.6 MAP psi and mine shows 23.23 MAP psi just before shift. His rev limit is higher and his boost curve is flatter than mine. Perhaps the software has been upgraded/modified?
Ok, you're saying shows 16.6 psi, but his units show inches per psi ( "/psi"), and the range for that specific unit on the graph (according to the left) goes from 0.1 to 5869, while yours shows psi and ranges from 0-30. That's why I'm asking if there is a difference in the app config, and if so, we don't know that his units are equal to your units. That said, a MAP value of 16.6 psi would be extremely low unless there's some math behind the scenes subtracting the atmospheric value (in which case it would be well above stock, but I don't recall what he has done to his car).
23.23 right before shift sounds about right. It has been a few years since I've played around with Hondata on my car, but if I recall right my stock boost numbers were somewhere around 13-14 psi in the midrange, trailing down to around 8 by redline. I believe the Stigan turbo is an OEM replacement, correct? If so, 23.23 on the MAP sensor at redline is right within expectations.
Ok, you're saying shows 16.6 psi, but his units show inches per psi ( "/psi"), and the range for that specific unit on the graph (according to the left) goes from 0.1 to 5869, while yours shows psi and ranges from 0-30. That's why I'm asking if there is a difference in the app config, and if so, we don't know that his units are equal to your units. That said, a MAP value of 16.6 psi would be extremely low unless there's some math behind the scenes subtracting the atmospheric value (in which case it would be well above stock, but I don't recall what he has done to his car).
23.23 right before shift sounds about right. It has been a few years since I've played around with Hondata on my car, but if I recall right my stock boost numbers were somewhere around 13-14 psi in the midrange, trailing down to around 8 by redline. I believe the Stigan turbo is an OEM replacement, correct? If so, 23.23 on the MAP sensor at redline is right within expectations.
The 0.1 to 5869 is a settable range that I lowered because I couldn't see it ever going that high. Yes, the Stigan turbo is a Chinese knock-off that may have different boost maps. A n/a engine at full throttle will see less than 14.7lbs. manifold pressure. There are some selectable option boxes in the program that I'll have to play around with to see if it makes atmosphere = 0 with + - pressure readings. I haven't used Hondata before so it's a learn as I go deal. Thank you for commenting, any help is appreciated.
So I did a bit of Googling and found a thread on the Hondata forums. The unit [ "/psi ] means inches OR psi. So below 14.7 psi of absolute pressure it should show vacuum in inches of mercury (0 = atmospheric pressure, 29.92 = perfect vacuum), and above 14.7 absolute pressure it will read out in psi. This means that on Wrench's log, 16.6 is the actual positive pressure on top of atmosphere - in other words a healthy increase over stock. It should also show vacuum on the negative axis, but since the range stops at 0.1 you won't see vacuum represented at all even when present - it'll just zero out on the graph.
Change your units to the "/psi and you should see something more like 13.5-14.5 peak and around 8 at redline.
Changed to DW750cc injectors yesterday. I stayed with the Stock Tuned flash and input the new size. I'm waiting for 1 more part before I take it to a shop and have the manifold, throttle body, and DW65c fuel pump swapped in before a more aggressive tune, I'd hate to run out of pump and break it. I wanted them to swap the injectors, but needed the reprogram.
05-28-2021, 09:55 PM
