SH-AWD function
SH-AWD function
I have a 2012 RDX. I like to watch the SHAWD gauge when I corner & am in snow, etc. Before I got my 2012, I had test drove a 2007 and 2010. I remember how their SHAWD gauges showed a lot of activity, even on a simple turn. Yet on my 2012, I have never seen much activity, especially for the rear tires. So I found some curves with good asphalt (Michigan...) and hooked up my GoPro in front of the dash with the SHAWD gauge showing.
I don’t get it folks. Reviewing the video, the rear never got beyond 2 bars (i am not sure if that was straight acceleration or on the curves). And never did one side show bias over the other (they were equal 99% of the time. There was some very brief moments where it would show 1 bar on each side and a second bar would light up for a split second on one side). Now the front would light up to 3 bars, with a few times hitting 4 bars. But they did this equally. I could understand on straight acceleration having it equal. But not cornering. So you would have 3 bars on the front & 1-2 bars in the back. And when I say front/back, when i look at the gauge I assume the top is front and bottom is back.
So what confuses and bothers me is that this is nowhere near the same as the 2007 or 2010 models I test drove. They both showed the power shifting back and forth between wheels when turning or cornering. One wheel would have 3-4 bars while the other 1-2. I never see that on my 2012. Now I haven’t driven in some snow and checked this out (its summer, don’t want to think about snow and cold for a long time).
But I am curious. Is there something wrong? Mechanically I have not had any problems with the drive train (except just replaced front drive shafts @ 135k miles). I have had all maintenance done by the dealer since purchase and they have not reported anything.
Folks let me know your thoughts. I am working on producing a video of the trip, but its gonna take some time to get things lined up and edited. But I can get some images or short clips if necessary.
I don’t get it folks. Reviewing the video, the rear never got beyond 2 bars (i am not sure if that was straight acceleration or on the curves). And never did one side show bias over the other (they were equal 99% of the time. There was some very brief moments where it would show 1 bar on each side and a second bar would light up for a split second on one side). Now the front would light up to 3 bars, with a few times hitting 4 bars. But they did this equally. I could understand on straight acceleration having it equal. But not cornering. So you would have 3 bars on the front & 1-2 bars in the back. And when I say front/back, when i look at the gauge I assume the top is front and bottom is back.
So what confuses and bothers me is that this is nowhere near the same as the 2007 or 2010 models I test drove. They both showed the power shifting back and forth between wheels when turning or cornering. One wheel would have 3-4 bars while the other 1-2. I never see that on my 2012. Now I haven’t driven in some snow and checked this out (its summer, don’t want to think about snow and cold for a long time).
But I am curious. Is there something wrong? Mechanically I have not had any problems with the drive train (except just replaced front drive shafts @ 135k miles). I have had all maintenance done by the dealer since purchase and they have not reported anything.
Folks let me know your thoughts. I am working on producing a video of the trip, but its gonna take some time to get things lined up and edited. But I can get some images or short clips if necessary.
I noticed that in mine which is an 08, I think because it's still front wheel drive. It puts power to all wheels but mostly the front due to more power can be put to the front then the rears.
it's more for power control then awd power I think, especially in all weather conditions.
My 2 cents
it's more for power control then awd power I think, especially in all weather conditions.
My 2 cents
Yeah I know when cruising it has a FWD bias. But it should be overturning the outside wheels in a turn or a curve. The new ones show this on their displays.
heres wikipedia
”That torque transfer, combined with a 1.7% rear over-rotation of the rear wheel helps rotate the RDX through a turn“
It should have more torque to the rear, especially in a turn.
I am thinking I may go find a gravel pit with some hills & film again, see what happens. I am curious to see if at least the torque shifts.
heres wikipedia
”That torque transfer, combined with a 1.7% rear over-rotation of the rear wheel helps rotate the RDX through a turn“
It should have more torque to the rear, especially in a turn.
I am thinking I may go find a gravel pit with some hills & film again, see what happens. I am curious to see if at least the torque shifts.
I usually see only 1-2 bars of "SH" on my 08 RDX compared to 2-4 bar on my 11 MDX in the same driving conditions. I need to drive the RDX like I stole it to get close to the same level of "SH" I see on my MDX in normal driving. My RDX is way more stable/controlled in the corners and maybe along with lighter weight it doesn't need "SH" as much as the the MDX? The RDX is still my fav vehicles to drive when the road gets twisty.
I usually see only 1-2 bars of "SH" on my 08 RDX compared to 2-4 bar on my 11 MDX in the same driving conditions. I need to drive the RDX like I stole it to get close to the same level of "SH" I see on my MDX in normal driving. My RDX is way more stable/controlled in the corners and maybe along with lighter weight it doesn't need "SH" as much as the the MDX? The RDX is still my fav vehicles to drive when the road gets twisty.
I did find some points in my video where ( got 4, with a flash of 5 bars in the front. Nothing over 3 in the rears. I need to find some dirt or evil snow & off-road it a bit, see if that brings out the 5 bar rear.
I'm pushing +175,000 miles on my 08 RDX (Conti DWS 06 tires, Progress RSB, Hondata, ETS Intercooler, Hondata heatshield gasket). I had Eibach lowering springs on her until 110,000 miles; but, took the springs off when I needed to replace my blown struts/shocks. I had an issue with a knocking/binding noise up front everytime I turned the wheel. Just ended up going with the OEM strut assembly and raising the RDX back just to get rid of the noise. The RDX after the fix still was the best handling vehicle I've owned. I love the turbo boost to get that extra sh-awd kick in the rear in the corners! I usually wear out my 50,000 miles tires in about 35,000 miles because I hit the corners so hard in the RDX.
The sh-awd in the 3rd Gen RDX is suppose to send even more rear tq in the corners compared to the 1st Gen sh-awd system. The all new 2021 TLX has the 4th Gen sh-awd system that is rear bias instead of fwd bias like all previous Acuras. I think the NSX is the only rear bias awd vehicle Honda/Acura makes now?
The sh-awd in the 3rd Gen RDX is suppose to send even more rear tq in the corners compared to the 1st Gen sh-awd system. The all new 2021 TLX has the 4th Gen sh-awd system that is rear bias instead of fwd bias like all previous Acuras. I think the NSX is the only rear bias awd vehicle Honda/Acura makes now?
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