RDX reliability?
#41
Don't buy any part ahead of time. I've still got some RDX parts in the garage and I haven't owned one for over a year. It was replaced with a Sport Wagon and I couldn't be happier. No, it's not a fucking Jetta!
Hmm, seems like I've seen a dozen of these threads over the years.
NO vehicle is perfecly reliable. If OP has already decided to buy 1G RDX, then a pat on the back is all they need.
Hmm, seems like I've seen a dozen of these threads over the years.
NO vehicle is perfecly reliable. If OP has already decided to buy 1G RDX, then a pat on the back is all they need.
It's all good, I'm just grateful that RDX owners warn me of these little issues so I can be prepared. Still love the car.
#44
At 150k the only non-scheduled repair I have had to do was for the positive battery terminal. It became excessively corroded and eventually wouldn't stay connected. My fault for not noticing soon enough and cleaning regularly. Otherwise just tires, fluids, filters and a set of spark plugs. For fluids not covered in the manual, I change every 50k (coolant, brake, power steering). It is ready for a suspension overhaul though, so that'll be about a grand in work (less depending on what I decide to do myself). I have also replaced the console front door arm rest vinyl pieces due to excessive wear, but that's more cosmetic and doesn't affect reliability.
I am hoping this "mid-life" refresh will get me at least another 5 years / 100k of mostly trouble-free use out of it. Seeing a some members on here well north of 200k without catastrophic issues is good news.
I am hoping this "mid-life" refresh will get me at least another 5 years / 100k of mostly trouble-free use out of it. Seeing a some members on here well north of 200k without catastrophic issues is good news.
#45
Suzuka Master
I am 175k miles. Went through bad AC coil, transmission leak and other annoyances. Overall reliable car.
planning to keep it for another year. Not putting money into new suspension as the cost new suspension will be more than half of car trade in price.
planning to keep it for another year. Not putting money into new suspension as the cost new suspension will be more than half of car trade in price.
#46
Yeah as soon as it starts leaking stuff, I'll start considering what is worth doing and what is ok to live with until the car is done. But so far, fingers crossed, it's in amazing shape inside and out. Plan is to use it another year or so, then pass it to the wifey and get something newer for our main transportation. Her commute is much shorter than mine, so even at 200k miles as long as it's working well it could last several more years. It does help that Phoenix is a lot friendlier overall to cars than Jersey.
#47
Suzuka Master
Yes, NJ sucks in winter because they put tons of salt and cars are rusting under.
The trans leak cost me $500 to fix. Was a bad seal on one of the transmission cover gaskets. otherwise nothing is wrong with trans.
The trans leak cost me $500 to fix. Was a bad seal on one of the transmission cover gaskets. otherwise nothing is wrong with trans.
#48
2008 Tech. now at 125k. Bought new. Other than regular service and tires, I had the airbag recall and some issue with my infotainment that would have cost serious dollars but my service manager and I got Acura to agree to cover most of the cost as a “loyal” long-standing customer (previously had an Integra).
seriously considering the new RDX but really wish it had the smaller dimensions of Gen 1.
seriously considering the new RDX but really wish it had the smaller dimensions of Gen 1.
#50
CSmoney28
Unfortunately, I had other problems that you guys didn’t have with my 09’ Tech 140k.
I had to replace the air bags, replace the speakers, replace the transmission pressure switches, replace the window regulators, replace the power door lock acuators, and replace the brake pressure switch that all were under the warranty.
Not under warrant I had to send out my gps unit to get rebuild as well as my ac condenser. Other than that regular maintenance was provided by my dealer and aftermarket parts were installed by my local speed shop.
I had to replace the air bags, replace the speakers, replace the transmission pressure switches, replace the window regulators, replace the power door lock acuators, and replace the brake pressure switch that all were under the warranty.
Not under warrant I had to send out my gps unit to get rebuild as well as my ac condenser. Other than that regular maintenance was provided by my dealer and aftermarket parts were installed by my local speed shop.
#51
mrgold35
The issues I've had that may or may not be common are:
- brake booster sensor replaced (out of pocket)
- i-Vtec solenoid replaced (powertrain warranty)
- OEM battery failure after 3 years (out of pocket, didn't want another OEM battery under warranty, zero issues with interstate battery)
- driver door lock failure (out of pocket)
- driver sun visor replaced (out of pocket)
- replaced driver side door speaker (basic warranty)
- replaced bad relay causing battery drain (out of pocket)
- replaced alternator after 100,000 miles (out of pocket)
- replaced A/C clutch (Acura 100,000 extended warranty on A/C)
- replaced front struts with OEM and rear shocks with KYB
- installed front Camber adjustment bolts
- brake booster sensor replaced (out of pocket)
- i-Vtec solenoid replaced (powertrain warranty)
- OEM battery failure after 3 years (out of pocket, didn't want another OEM battery under warranty, zero issues with interstate battery)
- driver door lock failure (out of pocket)
- driver sun visor replaced (out of pocket)
- replaced driver side door speaker (basic warranty)
- replaced bad relay causing battery drain (out of pocket)
- replaced alternator after 100,000 miles (out of pocket)
- replaced A/C clutch (Acura 100,000 extended warranty on A/C)
- replaced front struts with OEM and rear shocks with KYB
- installed front Camber adjustment bolts
- almost 90 days with rental waiting on airbag replacement
- replaced front passenger axle seal
- replaced all 4 coil packs
- slight leak from power steering pump (mostly just dirty around that area, no drop in levels)
- need new tires, back ordered on Discount Tires (Conti DWS 06 in 18" size)
Planning to start serious looking to add another vehicle to the stables. I will still keep the RDX (and TSX/MDX) until the wheels fall off. I just don't want to push my luck with 3 Acura with +425,000 miles between them. Leaning towards used or CPO 15 MDX Adv sh-awd or +18 MDX sh-sh-awd Adv. Love the 19 RDX; but, too new and I really like the extra room with the MDX.
#52
2008 with almost 90k miles
Other than normal maintenance on consumables:
-Steering rack under warranty
-Both visors (out of pocket)
-Drive armrest (not done)
-Center console armrest (not done)
-AC compressor (just died today and out of extended warranty by 7 mos)
-Alternator (will replace while compressor being replaced as precaution)
Wife understands I am to get another car once I approach 120k.
Other than normal maintenance on consumables:
-Steering rack under warranty
-Both visors (out of pocket)
-Drive armrest (not done)
-Center console armrest (not done)
-AC compressor (just died today and out of extended warranty by 7 mos)
-Alternator (will replace while compressor being replaced as precaution)
Wife understands I am to get another car once I approach 120k.
EDIT: Also had to disconnect the bluetooth module that was draining my battery.
#53
#54
Most of the time with Honda/Acura, the vehicle really gets rock solid after its 3rd year or MMC (which ever comes first). Most of the issues in the early model years are usually technology related like reflashing transmission, stereo speakers, door actuators, bluetooth modules, navi updates, OEM battery, condensation in HID housing, etc... Very few to problems with show stopping major components like engine, transmission, sh-awd, turbo, exhaust or emissions.
I normally purchase my Honda/Acura's after the MMC; but, I was just not feeling the new Acura front/rear bumpers on the +10. At the time I was ready to purchase 2010, Hondata and the color combo I wanted was only available for the 07-08 model years. It would be very difficult to find a used RDX with the factory warranty still left. Existing Extended Acura Care warranties are transferable to new owners. Purchasing an Acura Care Warranty (assuming you can with a 12 RDX) would be a waste of money on average for that model.
Finding a RDX with a single or maybe a second owner, complete service records from Acura dealership, and close to stock as possible would be ideal.
I normally purchase my Honda/Acura's after the MMC; but, I was just not feeling the new Acura front/rear bumpers on the +10. At the time I was ready to purchase 2010, Hondata and the color combo I wanted was only available for the 07-08 model years. It would be very difficult to find a used RDX with the factory warranty still left. Existing Extended Acura Care warranties are transferable to new owners. Purchasing an Acura Care Warranty (assuming you can with a 12 RDX) would be a waste of money on average for that model.
Finding a RDX with a single or maybe a second owner, complete service records from Acura dealership, and close to stock as possible would be ideal.
Transmission on reflash?? Tell me more.
#55
mrgold35
I should have been more specific of which model I was taking about. I had to do a reflash of my MDX 6AT to smooth out shifting issues to improve mpgs and driveability. As far as I know, a reflash of the RDX 5AT isn't something the 2nd Gen RDX needs. Other than routine maintenance and replacing my coil packs; the RDX powertrain (engine/turbo/5AT/sh-awd) has been extremely reliable for +155,000 miles with Hondata+ETS intercooler.
#56
#57
Three Wheelin'
My 08 RDX just passed 80k miles this past weekend. So far running great. No major failures as of yet. Dealer had previously said there was a small leak in the rack & pinion assembly, but it might have just been dirty. Haven't noticed any real leaks so just keeping an eye on it. I recently had the passenger foglight replaced due to an errant rock.
#59
CSmoney28
Yeah, I’ve been dealing with rocks breaking the glass housing in my RDX too. I have been buying led fog light bulbs that are IP68 rated so they work when it rains. I still have to order a new fog light assembly and install it. Shouldn’t be that hard to do, I’m always switching out the fog light bulbs since the glass always breaks. I don’t think 🤔 the BC Racing coil overs are helping my cause 😆.
I haven’t replaced the coil packs or axels like any others. I guess I’m lucky ☺️ in that aspect. My truck doesn’t leak any fluids either, so I’m liking the power train so far 140k later on my 09’. Even though it’s the most expensive Acura power train to service 😔.
I haven’t replaced the coil packs or axels like any others. I guess I’m lucky ☺️ in that aspect. My truck doesn’t leak any fluids either, so I’m liking the power train so far 140k later on my 09’. Even though it’s the most expensive Acura power train to service 😔.
#60
Three Wheelin'
#64
Three Wheelin'
#65
This...I bought mine about 5 years ago and just put my 4th replacement battery in. No clue if it was still on its original at the time. So...at least 5 batteries on my 2010 with 153k miles - maybe more.
I also live in Phoenix, so this actually somewhat par for the course.
I also live in Phoenix, so this actually somewhat par for the course.
#66
Three Wheelin'
This...I bought mine about 5 years ago and just put my 4th replacement battery in. No clue if it was still on its original at the time. So...at least 5 batteries on my 2010 with 153k miles - maybe more.
I also live in Phoenix, so this actually somewhat par for the course.
I also live in Phoenix, so this actually somewhat par for the course.
#68
CSmoney28
Every forty five thousand miles in my 09’ I need a new battery. I’ve changed tires probably every twenty five thousand miles too. Plus all the window and door regulators that blow all the time along with the speakers. Even the brake switch and transmission pressure switches go all the time. Not to mention the AC system blew five thousand miles after my extended warranty was done of course 😔.
#70
Null and proud of it
Heres a K24 Accord with that same precious sound!
#72
4th Gear
‘09 RDX Miles
Hi,
I have a ‘09 RDX that has just passed 260k miles. The only repairs, ouside of maintainance items, were, the bank 1 V-Tech actuator and the a/c compressor clutch twice. Great car, drives like new!
See that is EXACTLY what I want, something boasting a german driving feel with a Japanese reliability factor. I would say that most of the stuff on here said to be repairs would be a joke compared to the things people talk about on German forums like new engines and transmissions and diffs...etc.
I really want to get the RDX, I also know they have near bullet proof reliability (it is a Honda product after all). It is just that small "what if?". Having been burned the last 3 times in a row, I am at the point where I really still want something fun to drive, but still know it will be reliable. Maybe I am completely overthinking it and blocking myself from fully appreciating the RDX
Thank you for your input.[/QUOTE]
I have a ‘09 RDX that has just passed 260k miles. The only repairs, ouside of maintainance items, were, the bank 1 V-Tech actuator and the a/c compressor clutch twice. Great car, drives like new!
See that is EXACTLY what I want, something boasting a german driving feel with a Japanese reliability factor. I would say that most of the stuff on here said to be repairs would be a joke compared to the things people talk about on German forums like new engines and transmissions and diffs...etc.
I really want to get the RDX, I also know they have near bullet proof reliability (it is a Honda product after all). It is just that small "what if?". Having been burned the last 3 times in a row, I am at the point where I really still want something fun to drive, but still know it will be reliable. Maybe I am completely overthinking it and blocking myself from fully appreciating the RDX
Thank you for your input.[/QUOTE]
#74
Suzuka Master
with 260K on 10 year old car, its 26K miles per year. I'd imagine highway mostly which is easy on car. still very impressive.
I know you all plan to keep your cars forever, but I am hoping to go to 2020 RDX end of this year.
I know you all plan to keep your cars forever, but I am hoping to go to 2020 RDX end of this year.
#75
Three Wheelin'
The worst thing about the RDX (1st gen) is driving over rough roads or hitting bumps on the freeway is horrible. But overall it's a great handling car (for an SUV) and the turbo thrust is still awesome, even compared to modern turbos. However, you do have to get used to the lag. My RDX has about 80k miles on it, and I bought it new in 2008.
#77
#78
CSmoney28
My truck loves going through speakers 🔊, door lock 🔒 actuators, window actuators, transmission pressure switches, yaw sensors, brake sensors, batteries, struts, tires, a/c condenser, blower motor, mix door blender, brake lines, and interior leather panels. Other than those only regular matinence... 2009 140,000 miles that doesn’t include performance upgrades obviously 😆
#79
mrgold35
I developed a new maint issue with my 08 RDX with +158k a few weeks ago. Found a puddle of normal looking blue/green antifreeze on the garage floor in the area where the center of the radiator sits. I didn't notice any smells on Friday and didn't see the the puddle until the wife left for work on Monday morning. Checked out the RDX when she got home and everything was dry. The overflow tank was empty and the radiator was down about 1-2 cups of fluids. Topped everything off 2 weeks ago and it hasn't dripped on the ground or dropped in anti-freeze limits since (also near freezing since compared to being around 60 degrees when I saw the leak at first).
Any high mileage RDX have issues with radiator leaks in the same area?
Any high mileage RDX have issues with radiator leaks in the same area?
#80
CSmoney28
Did you put regular coolant or a sealer coolant? Also, is it possible the cold 🥶 showed a leak in a cracked hose or a cracked in the radiator due to shrinkage? Then warmer temperatures expanded the crack and sealed it back up?