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I've had the P2263 issue come and go for the past few years on my 2012 SH-AWD tech as a lot of you, my take on the issue :
- Changing the VGT actuator rod end does the trick somewhat (essentially the first time)......but eventually the code comes back.
There is a good chance the mating part (pin at the end of the arm) is pretty worn out as well, so even if you adjust it very tight, you still get some kind of delayed response when the boost is sufficient to push the rod as it has to travel the gap before something happens. But still if it's tight, then at least you know the flap within the turbo will be properly closed which will help spool up the turbo and get rid of the flutter noise.
Some peoples manage to change the pin, I don't have that kind of talent....I wedged in a round piece of metal in the eye there to compensate for the loss of material......but still I would get P2263 almost daily.
- I did at some point used an air compressor connected to the wastegate actuator to "exercise" it (it's bellow the turbo, you cannot get to it). If you can hear it move, it is good, but I believe it is an important part of the P2263 problem and possibly very difficult to address.
With age, there is a good chance the wastegate doesn't shut as tight as it used to be, then necessarily the turbo won't spool as fast because of the loss exhaust pressure, especially at low rpm. It's a pity because there is an actual adjustment on the rod, but it is just not accessible :
You can see the rod from the top...but that the closest you get, It would have been nice to have a way to adjust it in the middle without having to REMOVE THE TURBO to disconnect the wastegate pin.
---
I live in eastern Canada, we have snow 4 months of the year and each time P2263 pops up you loose the 4WD until your next restart, it is a major pain for me.
There are 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 code, all related to the way the turbo performs (I don't have the details).....I get it, my turbo doesn't perform as well as it was when the car was brand new.....but then again, I drive a twelve years old car and honestly it still runs fine.....but it doesn't make sense to dump 3k$ on it to replace the turbo or gamble 500$ on a chinese turbo that won't last given the complexity of the job to replace it. Also considering that everything is rusted through and through, it is just not worth it for me.
Now to the workaround :
I don't need the periodic reminder and I won't change the turbo....so reflash the ECU !
I bought a real Tactrix open port 2.0 device (not a clone), other devices can work as well, and you just produce a new custom firmware (from the stock one) that ignores the 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 turbo issue and flash it to the ECU :
The software works well, just connect the device to the OBD2 port, it takes 5 minutes to push the new firmware to the ECU and that's it, no more P2263.
I've had the P2263 issue come and go for the past few years on my 2012 SH-AWD tech as a lot of you, my take on the issue :
- Changing the VGT actuator rod end does the trick somewhat (essentially the first time)......but eventually the code comes back.
There is a good chance the mating part (pin at the end of the arm) is pretty worn out as well, so even if you adjust it very tight, you still get some kind of delayed response when the boost is sufficient to push the rod as it has to travel the gap before something happens. But still if it's tight, then at least you know the flap within the turbo will be properly closed which will help spool up the turbo and get rid of the flutter noise.
Some peoples manage to change the pin, I don't have that kind of talent....I wedged in a round piece of metal in the eye there to compensate for the loss of material......but still I would get P2263 almost daily.
- I did at some point used an air compressor connected to the wastegate actuator to "exercise" it (it's bellow the turbo, you cannot get to it). If you can hear it move, it is good, but I believe it is an important part of the P2263 problem and possibly very difficult to address.
With age, there is a good chance the wastegate doesn't shut as tight as it used to be, then necessarily the turbo won't spool as fast because of the loss exhaust pressure, especially at low rpm. It's a pity because there is an actual adjustment on the rod, but it is just not accessible :
You can see the rod from the top...but that the closest you get, It would have been nice to have a way to adjust it in the middle without having to REMOVE THE TURBO to disconnect the wastegate pin.
---
I live in eastern Canada, we have snow 4 months of the year and each time P2263 pops up you loose the 4WD until your next restart, it is a major pain for me.
There are 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 code, all related to the way the turbo performs (I don't have the details).....I get it, my turbo doesn't perform as well as it was when the car was brand new.....but then again, I drive a twelve years old car and honestly it still runs fine.....but it doesn't make sense to dump 3k$ on it to replace the turbo or gamble 500$ on a chinese turbo that won't last given the complexity of the job to replace it. Also considering that everything is rusted through and through, it is just not worth it for me.
Now to the workaround :
I don't need the periodic reminder and I won't change the turbo....so reflash the ECU !
I bought a real Tactrix open port 2.0 device (not a clone), other devices can work as well, and you just produce a new custom firmware (from the stock one) that ignores the 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 turbo issue and flash it to the ECU :
The software works well, just connect the device to the OBD2 port, it takes 5 minutes to push the new firmware to the ECU and that's it, no more P2263.
Does the software provide any more information about the 5 boost problem conditions that can trip the P2263 code? I agree with all that you've said about your car's condition and why you would just want to disable getting this code and I'm wondering if you would have to disable all 5 conditions. Sure would like to know more about the 5 boost problems disables to better understand the problem and if you could keep some from being disabled and still get rid of the P2263. This software is interesting and could be very useful for other things too. Like your car my car wasn't running fine and still getting the P2263 code. I did end up replacing the eye bolt and pin to get rid of the code and the car did seem to have a little more low-end boost but not by much, I would have been satisfied to leave as is if it weren't for the code. Thans for posting the information about this software.
No, I don't think details about the 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 code on those cars is known outside of the Honda engineering department.
In the service manual, the troubleshooting for a P2263 code is to check pretty much everything related to the turbo, the final test they give you to do is :
which is step 31, and I'd guess is bound to pop the code again if there is legitimate issue in the system. Considering this, part of P2263 must be related to the spool up time, what exactly is checked is difficult to say, because it depends on a multiple of factors such as RPM, engine load, etc ....
Problem is, they send you back to send 1 if you fail step 31 ... turbo is old never made it into the manual.
No, I don't think details about the 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 code on those cars is known outside of the Honda engineering department.
In the service manual, the troubleshooting for a P2263 code is to check pretty much everything related to the turbo, the final test they give you to do is :
which is step 31, and I'd guess is bound to pop the code again if there is legitimate issue in the system. Considering this, part of P2263 must be related to the spool up time, what exactly is checked is difficult to say, because it depends on a multiple of factors such as RPM, engine load, etc ....
Problem is, they send you back to send 1 if you fail step 31 ... turbo is old never made it into the manual.
In the video there's some information about the P2263 code and the condition that sets the code, which is an expected boost level being below the expected amount for a set amount of time. The entire turbo system needs to be in good shape for the boost pressure to be under control and at the level expected. The variable boost control flap sends exhaust to different parts of the turbine wheel for faster spooling under low load condtions and opens up for more exhaust flow under higher rpm conditions. The play in the variable boost control arm due to eye bolt and pin wear must mess up the boost level under the drive condition you've shown and set the code.
Yes I've seen that one, great video, except the guy mix the variable flow actuator with the wastegate.
There is bit of information at 4:00 :
" The degree of boost pressure rise delay is 0.1 sec or less for at least 4.2 sec"
I don't know the details but I'd venture to say one of the check goes like this :
- Throttle pedal sensor above X % (50 % ?)
- start counter
- measure boost pressure
- boost pressure > threshold ? --> stop counter save as delay
I don't think the system pops the code on only one occurrence of having a delay > 0.1 sec, so that's where the 4.2 sec comes into play, but exactly how they calculate this, I don't know.
Especially since the official test calls for 2sec acceleration, 10 times.
---
Obviously having a loose variable flow actuator can trigger this as the exhaust flow is not confined to the inner part of the turbo and spool-up time is longer consequently, but I don't think that's the only cause for slow spool-up time :
- cracked open wastegate must be another cause
- old age at some point
I've had the P2263 issue come and go for the past few years on my 2012 SH-AWD tech as a lot of you, my take on the issue :
- Changing the VGT actuator rod end does the trick somewhat (essentially the first time)......but eventually the code comes back.
There is a good chance the mating part (pin at the end of the arm) is pretty worn out as well, so even if you adjust it very tight, you still get some kind of delayed response when the boost is sufficient to push the rod as it has to travel the gap before something happens. But still if it's tight, then at least you know the flap within the turbo will be properly closed which will help spool up the turbo and get rid of the flutter noise.
Some peoples manage to change the pin, I don't have that kind of talent....I wedged in a round piece of metal in the eye there to compensate for the loss of material......but still I would get P2263 almost daily.
- I did at some point used an air compressor connected to the wastegate actuator to "exercise" it (it's bellow the turbo, you cannot get to it). If you can hear it move, it is good, but I believe it is an important part of the P2263 problem and possibly very difficult to address.
With age, there is a good chance the wastegate doesn't shut as tight as it used to be, then necessarily the turbo won't spool as fast because of the loss exhaust pressure, especially at low rpm. It's a pity because there is an actual adjustment on the rod, but it is just not accessible :
You can see the rod from the top...but that the closest you get, It would have been nice to have a way to adjust it in the middle without having to REMOVE THE TURBO to disconnect the wastegate pin.
---
I live in eastern Canada, we have snow 4 months of the year and each time P2263 pops up you loose the 4WD until your next restart, it is a major pain for me.
There are 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 code, all related to the way the turbo performs (I don't have the details).....I get it, my turbo doesn't perform as well as it was when the car was brand new.....but then again, I drive a twelve years old car and honestly it still runs fine.....but it doesn't make sense to dump 3k$ on it to replace the turbo or gamble 500$ on a chinese turbo that won't last given the complexity of the job to replace it. Also considering that everything is rusted through and through, it is just not worth it for me.
Now to the workaround :
I don't need the periodic reminder and I won't change the turbo....so reflash the ECU !
I bought a real Tactrix open port 2.0 device (not a clone), other devices can work as well, and you just produce a new custom firmware (from the stock one) that ignores the 5 conditions that can trigger a P2263 turbo issue and flash it to the ECU :
The software works well, just connect the device to the OBD2 port, it takes 5 minutes to push the new firmware to the ECU and that's it, no more P2263.
Here's my story and review on BMDevs: Our 2007 RDX has had the P2263 code for the past few years. First I replaced the eye-bolt and it worked for about a year. Then the upper actuator failed and I replaced it, but several months later the code was back. This time, with nearly 200K miles, I bought a new turbo, intercooler, catalytic converter, exhaust system, head gasket and all-new turbo control solenoids. I checked every hose, wire and connector (replacing most). Everything was good for several hundred miles, but, again, the code came back. It drives great whether the code is on or not - the main problem is the code will eventually turn off SH-AWD, making it unsafe to drive in rain or snow. I bought the BMDevs software and the Tactrix adapter, easily coded out P2263 and everything works without a problem so far. Sometimes on a high-mileage vehicle that is 17 years old, you just can't chase down every gremlin - especially an emissions-related code. Highly recommended!
How did you fix that in the software, I’m trying to do that as well. I’m supposed to just change the value from 1 to 0?
and also, am I supposed to just edit the stock file and upload? Because every time I am trying to read the ecu module, the software just turns off.
thanks
I did the same thing at first. Here's the process I used:
- Connect to the ECU and get your Calibration ID (I have a 2007 and my ID was A550, so I used the RWC-A57 file since it was the most current for my ECU)
- Next go to File, then to Create New File. Narrow your options by choosing your platform (Acura RDX 2.3L K23A1 Turbo 2007-2012)
- Now choose the file that corresponds to your calibration ID
- Once the file is loaded, go to Sensors, choose P2263 and change all 5 parameters from 1 to 0
- Go to File and select Fix Checksums
- Save the file under a new name
- Go to File, to Open File, open the file you just created
- Connect to ECU and then click Flash ECU
I have been wondering about tuning the code out. It's a nightmare. My car has had this code since I bought it. The wastage is fine, the eyebolt is fine, I don't want to mess around with solenoids and all that crap. Perfect.
02-22-2024, 10:21 PM
... turbo is old never made it into the manual.
