RDX_indy

Hey, everyone. I've had this car for a couple of thousand of miles and keep getting code p2263. I've studied a lot of threads, and youtube videos about this code.

I started getting this code only when I would run different than my normal fuel. I'm assuming the car would cut back boost and sense something was off, and trip the code. From what I understand, if the wastegate is still open when it should be closed, this code will trip.

Most common issue seems to be the wastegate actuator or wastegate wrist pin. My wrist pin had no slack, the wastegate had no play. I've adjusted the wastegate arm twice. It's feels nice and tight Once quite extended, and this time tightened down more, code keeps coming back. The code comes back when I am driving slow, most of the time it seems to come back when I slow down for a turn, and mid turn the code will pop.

The car runs fine, I hear no noises, drives as expected. I just want the code from coming back. I was going to test some of the solenoids. does anyone has a source for that the voltages for the switches should be? I didn't see anything in the service manual.

If anyone has advice I would love to hear it!

Thanks!

FlopMeister

Sorry to hear, and sorry to say you most likely need to replace the turbo. If that wrist pin doesnt have any slack, the actuator arm on and inside the turbo is worn.
I could say you could just keep driving & ignore it. But there’s not anything that can be done besides replace.
Do you get any time in between resetting the code & it coming back? Do u reset & then it stays clear after 2-400 miles?
I just got my RDX back after having the turbo replaced. I was getting the code during afternoon highway driving, in the summer. I live about 20 highway miles from work. I would reset the code & after about 300 miles it would come back, strangely in the nearly the same place on the highway every time (a somewhat downward sloped curve on the highway, running my cruise at 75, halfway between work & home, so the car was warmed up).
I got my turbo from autozone.

DaIll1

I would suggest buying a turbo off eBay and send it to Blouch Performance Turbo and have them rebuild/upgrade it for a little extra yeehaw. Really helps the passing power.

RDX_indy

I might go that route, the car is plenty fast for me stock. I haven't had the code come back after tightening the wristpin actuator and cleaning the MAF sensor. knock on wood.

FlopMeister

Follow up to my situation. New turbo, just over 1k miles on it, code has returned, with a vengeance.

RDX_indy

damn dude. I am sorry to hear that. I'm not sure what i'm going to do with this car. I feel like it's a time bomb and I don't want to dump it on someone else. I paid 6700 for this car, and the code keeps coming back, the transmission seems messed up sometimes, and I feel like i'm throwing good money at a bad outcome. I honestly wish someone would just hit me so I can get rid of the car.

i'm planning to just drive the car into the ground without fixing anything.

DCS

This is a pretty good video that helped me understand how the turbo system boost controls work. It also has information on the P2263 code and it shows why the code gets set, expected boost pressure after throttle increase and in a certain amount of time, if boost pressure isn't at expected pressure or delayed then you get this code. This guy has a good scanner, it shows a lot of information on one screen.
Because your code has returned with vengeance it might actually make it easier to find and know when the problem is corrected. The challenge is so much of the turbo boost control system is involved; 3 solenoids, all the associated tubing, boost control sensor, bypass valve, two actuators and linkage (which should be good with a new turbo). If you can get your car scanned in a way shown in this video it may be obvious where the problem lies.
Have you looked for any obvious problems with all the tubing? There are two solenoids (wastegate and variable flow boost control) in the back near the turbo with all the hoses and the solenoid in front for the intercooler, which is the bypass valve solenoid. A careful look at everything may find something. Do you just the P2263 code?
I just repaired my car to get rid of the P2263 code, my eyebolt and pivot pin were both worn and replaced. This eyebolt/pin is a common problem but there's many other things that could cause this code too although, because it a response type code the problem could be more subtle than a hard failure with some component. With a new turbo you should be able to eliminate the eyebolt and pin as the problem and the actuators should be good, the problem is more likely with the associated parts not replaced with the turbo.

yanga001

What is the status of the other fluids in the system. Is it an over boost or under boost condition? What sounds does it make.

Are you burning any oil and what does the boost gauge/live data read.

What is the freeze frame data like.

There are a lot of variables to consider here. My partners RDX had odd turbo activation and lack of power due to worn tranny fluid. It manifested as the boost gauge twitching and a seemingly inability to build power when accelerating onto the highway. When we changed the fluid the gauge does not flutter and power was restored.

Depending on the boost code I am almost thinking that the boost codes can be thrown due to missing setpoints for torque requests compared to requested boost and rpm's. A slipping tranny can cause a lack of power which may trip this code is my theory.

Refresh some fluids and see if it feels any different.

FlopMeister

Here’s something it’s also doing. Holding 3rd gear longer while accelerating and not wanting to shift until u let off pedal then it hard shifts.

yanga001

Yea i would change the fluid asap if its holding gears. That sounds like what my partners car did when we got periodic hardshifts

FlopMeister

Fluid was just changed 6k miles ago, been 2 years, but not many miles.

yanga001

What kind of fluid did you use, are you at the correct level, and any shift solenoid codes?

FlopMeister

Trans fluid change was done at the local Honda dealer. ~march 2021, as I said maybe 8k miles since. The holding is not that bad. It’s not like it’s stuck in 3rd, it just wants to wind out a little farther in 3rd.
All maintenance is current with Acura dealer.
no other codes r being fired. I have hondata flashpro & it does not show anything further. And I have a tuner who has reviewed logs & doesn’t see anything.

FlopMeister

Hey everyone, the dealer figured out what was wrong. One of my intercooler pipes was bad, torn and leaking. They replaced and said it fixed the problem. I will see tomorrow when i pick up. I was getting 5 different codes.

FlopMeister

UPDATE:
not fixed. After driving a couple hundred miles, codes returned again. I can’t see what code, as the diagnostic screen did not log it. One is “emissions system” the other is the shawd warning. $300 for a $20 part. Dealer just replaced parts. Didn’t diagnose anything.
It is getting boost. When I dropped off it was in limp mode & couldn’t get more than half boost. Whatever is going on is not affecting driveability.

hues10

Do all turbo cars have such issues, or just this particular RDX model? Since it seems most SUV's have gone 4 cylinder turbo, Honda, Acura, Lexus, Audi, GM, etc., I have never heard of those cars having such random issues with a turbo. It seems way too expensive to fix if there are problems. And there is not a benefit in gas mileage savings. I wish it had the ole Honda V-6 in it like my 2004 Saturn did. At least that one was powerful and smooth. Besides the timing belt change interval thing. Just vetting here regarding this turbo issue on this car.

Tomtwtwtw

The RDX is a little unique with the variable inlet tech. Most modern turbo applications are using a twin scroll design that achieves more or less the same effect without the added mechanical complexity and moving parts. Not sure why Honda didn't go this route from the beginning - perhaps it was cheaper to implement this design as twin scroll turbos and the exhaust manifolds that feed them may be more expensive. Can't say for sure though.

hues10

Thanks Tomtwtw for that explantion. I guess Honda does not use this design in their current turbos then. We were the guinea pigs I guess.

DCS

About 3/4 down in the link below you'll find the Honda/Acura version of the variable geometry turbo, it's a movable flap design that directs exhaust flow to different parts of the twin scroll turbine wheel. I have experience with the Mitsubishi turbochargers as I've owned Volvos and now the RDX. The TD04 Mitsubishi turbo in the five cylinder Volvo's are very robust and last 200K-300K and more but they are not variable geometry turbos.
The Honda design adds the VGT flap to direct exhaust flow and from what I've dealt with a few months ago (and many others) is a worn pin and eyebolt pivot point that actuates exhaust flap for the VGT. In my opinion this is a weak point in the 1st gen RDX turbo design because the wear seems to generate codes around the 150K to 200K miles mark. It's enough wear to set an emission code P2263 and the in-car repair is difficult so the solution for many shops is to replace the turbo. The eyebolt can be replaced and this gives you some time but the pin wear is also a problem and more difficult to replace. From what I can tell the variable flap has a pretty good preload on the lever to keep the flap closed at low speeds and this is an active flap as it opens as needed to increase the exhaust flow over the turbine wheel at higher speeds. Because of the preload and how active this flap lever is the pivot point between the actuator arm eyebolt and pin lever wears. High temp grease or lube in this area should help with the wear but there's no mention of doing this as a maintenance item, which I wish i had known about this earlier.
The VGT design does add power and torque over a broader power range as compared to a non-VGT design so it's a great feature but does add some complexity and wear points to the turbo.
Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT) – x-engineer.org

Non-VGT turbos can have problems with wear at the wastegate lever arm pivot point as there are many Youtube videos on fixes for VW/Audi/BMW turbos for wear in this area.

yanga001

The turbo's themselves are fairly reliable, as mentioned by DCS. I second the volvo turbos being fairly reliable as i often see them with upwards of 300k km with no issues in the turbo region (ask about timing belts, variable valve timing solenoids, pcv's, etc lol).
I think a big thing that will help with diagnostic is if you can log some boost pressure data over a 0-60mph pull, and other pulls in different gears. Flopmesiter had his turbo replaced so i suspect its something else in his case.

I agree i would have liked to have a timing belt V6, however outside of the turbo i have not heard many problems on a honda engine. Further, this car had a much tighter oil change interval of 7000 km so it could be down to wear due to longer intervals. For instance, issues with volvo engines tended to happen with oem change intervals of 12000 km + which led to buildups.

Honda went back to the 4cyl turbo in the newest RDX, and i believe all of Volvo is now 4cyl turbo and audi.

FlopMeister

yanga, I used an autozone turbo. That shouldn’t matter should it? there’s not something messed up where I should have used an oem one? Is there any adjustments that Honda says to make after installing the turbo that my installer might not have known because it wasn’t in the basic manual?

FlopMeister

I did two pulls today and sent them to e-tunez for review. Here is what he said:
”When comparing these logs to the ones you sent in January, I can see your MAF flow is down about 20% for the same RPM and Boost levels. It could just be IAT related (50F vs 98F) but, it IS alot of reduction. The AFR is learner as result. I might suspect more leaks that you have not found yet, or possibly (unrelated) a slight reduction in fuel pressure contributing to a leaner AFR (pump getting older etc).
It’s not bad.... 12.3 AFR is actaully great for power, and not "too" lean for these engines, but it does show something is up with air fuel regulation mechanically, as we used to run 11.5-12.0 or so.”

I just replaced the MAF sensor back in early August with an autozone brand one.

yanga001

Just saw this post now, sorry for the delay.

Is the autozone maf sensor an "original OEM" or some off brand. If its original then i would not worry too much. Try to disable the p2263 as suggested by a poster in the problem and fixes thread. If you are near spec or very close to spec for fuel trims short term and long term (the % measurement) then i would not worry too much about the code indicating something heavily amiss.

I seem to recall you did a drain and fill recently and changed the air filter. If these have been done then it may be a case of the honda ECM being a bit picky. My brothers pilot for example will throw an emissions code if you put premium in it after it had been running on 87.

Other areas i have heard having leaks include the bypass solenoid gasket and then any of the standard intercooler connections.

FlopMeister

pits a duralast brand, not oem.

yanga001

If you have the old sensor maybe hit it with some maf cleaner and put it back in and see how she runs.

FlopMeister

I changed out the knock sensor and did some pulls then sent them to Steve @ E-tunez. He said things look fixed now. Let me re-state. Before, he said everything looked lean. He says now everything is running rich. He recommends a retune on good gas.
We will see how things go.

DaIll1

You may want to look into Aces IV fuel additive https://www.bndautomotive.com/aces-iv-gasoline-formula I've been using it since 2016 with no problems. It raises octane rating and adds top end and ring lubrication.

RDX_indy

do did your car get fixed? It was a bad knock sensor?