P2263 cause
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P2263 cause
I'm investigating a P2263 error on my 2011 RDX SHAWD. The wastegate valve eyelet has been adjusted so there is no slack, but still the P2263 appears - but only after a few hours of driving.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
#2
I'm investigating a P2263 error on my 2011 RDX SHAWD. The wastegate valve eyelet has been adjusted so there is no slack, but still the P2263 appears - but only after a few hours of driving.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
.
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I can see from a 4 year old invoice that the previous owner replaced the eyelet, and 2 years ago adjusted. I actually turned the union nut (connecting actuator arm with eyelet) as much as possible to pickup all potential slack (bringing the eyelet up). I wonder if I over tightened the linkage and am now preloading the spring...not sure if that matters?
The strange this is it took 3 hours of driving to trigger the P2263. I have no clue what to check since I suspect something is just a bit out of tolerance. I was the data stream / freeze frame would point to something specific.
The strange this is it took 3 hours of driving to trigger the P2263. I have no clue what to check since I suspect something is just a bit out of tolerance. I was the data stream / freeze frame would point to something specific.
#4
I can see from a 4 year old invoice that the previous owner replaced the eyelet, and 2 years ago adjusted. I actually turned the union nut (connecting actuator arm with eyelet) as much as possible to pickup all potential slack (bringing the eyelet up). I wonder if I over tightened the linkage and am now preloading the spring...not sure if that matters?
The strange this is it took 3 hours of driving to trigger the P2263. I have no clue what to check since I suspect something is just a bit out of tolerance. I was the data stream / freeze frame would point to something specific.
The strange this is it took 3 hours of driving to trigger the P2263. I have no clue what to check since I suspect something is just a bit out of tolerance. I was the data stream / freeze frame would point to something specific.
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Being a big guy I find it a bit tough to get in there, but I expect the pin which the eyelet connects to is worn as well. From everything I read online those are not replaceable as they are welded/pressed into the arm. How did you get yours out? (I'm guessing you removed the entire turbocharger and pressed it out or drilled it out?)
As an aside, assuming there is some play in the current (replaced 4 yr ago) eyelet, should tightening the union bolt to remove slack solve the code?
I will take a closer look on the next warm day (nice cold Canadian winter day here)
As an aside, assuming there is some play in the current (replaced 4 yr ago) eyelet, should tightening the union bolt to remove slack solve the code?
I will take a closer look on the next warm day (nice cold Canadian winter day here)
#6
Being a big guy I find it a bit tough to get in there, but I expect the pin which the eyelet connects to is worn as well. From everything I read online those are not replaceable as they are welded/pressed into the arm. How did you get yours out? (I'm guessing you removed the entire turbocharger and pressed it out or drilled it out?)
As an aside, assuming there is some play in the current (replaced 4 yr ago) eyelet, should tightening the union bolt to remove slack solve the code?
I will take a closer look on the next warm day (nice cold Canadian winter day here)
As an aside, assuming there is some play in the current (replaced 4 yr ago) eyelet, should tightening the union bolt to remove slack solve the code?
I will take a closer look on the next warm day (nice cold Canadian winter day here)
If there's play from the parts being worn you can't really adjust it to fix the problem.
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#8
I'm investigating a P2263 error on my 2011 RDX SHAWD. The wastegate valve eyelet has been adjusted so there is no slack, but still the P2263 appears - but only after a few hours of driving.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
I looked at the freeze frame data at the time of error, and Baro=97kpa and TCBoost = 1.45kpa. The code set at a time that I was not (I think) calling for turbo. I'm not sure how to diagnose this...any help appreciated.
Last edited by DaIll1; 01-25-2024 at 11:51 AM.
#10
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I wish I could edit posts....sorry for the part 2...
I found the software here , Is it free? (Not sure if this is trial version of freeware). Is it fairly straight forward to disable this alert?
I found the software here , Is it free? (Not sure if this is trial version of freeware). Is it fairly straight forward to disable this alert?
#12
I wish I could edit posts....sorry for the part 2...
I found the software here , Is it free? (Not sure if this is trial version of freeware). Is it fairly straight forward to disable this alert?
I found the software here , Is it free? (Not sure if this is trial version of freeware). Is it fairly straight forward to disable this alert?
You will need the FlashPro module as well to interface with your car - that will run you about 800 bucks off the site.
https://hondata.com/products/flashpr...n-gb&filter=12
https://hondata.com/products/flashpr...n-gb&filter=12
Last edited by DaIll1; 01-26-2024 at 12:05 PM.
#13
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I have access to a dealer type CANBUS based device (aftermarket), than can flash, actuate devices, etc. Is the settings available that way? Is this a setting in the PCM? Or something different
I just can't justify $800
I just can't justify $800
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I removed the intercooler today and had a very good look at the eyelet. I was surprised that there was still a gap with some play up and down. So I decided to adjust the union nut as suggested in the posts, to get rid of the gap. So I tightened the union nut to pull up the eyelet, and now when in resting position the gap is ABOVE the pin (as shown in left picture).
After I reassembled everything it occurred to me that I might have done the opposite of what was needed. Should I have adjusted the eyelet so that (when vehicle is off) the gap is ABOVE or BELOW the pin when in resting position.
After I reassembled everything it occurred to me that I might have done the opposite of what was needed. Should I have adjusted the eyelet so that (when vehicle is off) the gap is ABOVE or BELOW the pin when in resting position.
#16
I removed the intercooler today and had a very good look at the eyelet. I was surprised that there was still a gap with some play up and down. So I decided to adjust the union nut as suggested in the posts, to get rid of the gap. So I tightened the union nut to pull up the eyelet, and now when in resting position the gap is ABOVE the pin (as shown in left picture).
After I reassembled everything it occurred to me that I might have done the opposite of what was needed. Should I have adjusted the eyelet so that (when vehicle is off) the gap is ABOVE or BELOW the pin when in resting position.
After I reassembled everything it occurred to me that I might have done the opposite of what was needed. Should I have adjusted the eyelet so that (when vehicle is off) the gap is ABOVE or BELOW the pin when in resting position.
As the pin and eyebolt wear the spring-loaded force from the actuator will be less because the wear allows the actuator rod to move upward some from the wear so the preload will be reduced but there should still be enough preload to keep the linkage arm full up and the flap closed although with less preload. From what I've observed the adjustment coupler for the variable boost control actuator is threaded down close to the top of eyebolt edge so spring preload is basically as much as it can be with the adjustment coupler limit down. As the eyebolt and pin wear there is some loss in spring preload but I don't know by how much. With the pin eyebolt wear, to restore the original spring preload you would have to adjust the coupler to shorten the rod length to bring back more spring preload but typically I don't see any adjustment remaining from the original adjustment position, you just can't shorten the rod length anymore and you don't want to go the other way when the pin/eyebolt wear.
When the pin/eyebolt wear you can't adjust your way out the problem, it's the play or slop in the pin/eyebolt pivot point that reduces the control of the variable boost control flap and exhaust flow over the turbine wheel, which will set the P2263 code.
When I was working on my car to get rid of the P2263 code I ended up replacing the pin and eyebolt but replacing the pin was a real pain and since then I had an idea to get rid of the pin wear slop in the linkage without replacing the pin but it's only an idea, I haven't tried it out but will share what I was thinking of doing if I had to do this over again. See the attached pdf if interested and if anybody is willing to try this out I have parts to send out if requested.
Last edited by DCS; 03-02-2024 at 06:40 PM.
#17
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Interesting idea - I *think* you are moving the force (and friction) on the pin to the washer? I may have to noodle this for a while.
Given the effort required to work back there I don't think I'm up for experimenting with it.
Given the effort required to work back there I don't think I'm up for experimenting with it.
#18
On the downstroke the force is on the washer and the pin flange, the eyebolt is not in contact with the original eyebolt to pin contact area, during the upstroke the eyebolt is in contact with the pin as before. I'd try an experiment using this idea if I still had the original worn pin on the linkage arm.
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