Hello all,
Just hit 100K. Have not done any maintenance other than standard oil changes.

Any recomendations on what i should do, if any?

Ie. Diff, trans, coolant, spark plug changes?

 

http://owners.acura.com/service-maintenance/minder?year=2009&model=RDX#mid^TB1829JNW

basically, wait till one of the letters and numbers pop up on your dash.
the MID uses an algorithm to calculate maintenance.

it knows you hit 100k miles and if nothing on the dash is yelling at you; then there is no maintenance to perform.

However; if you want to change out fluids, change out them all.
-coolant
-brake
-oil
-power steering if applicable
-rear diff.

but as stated; the car will tell you when to change fluids, when to change plugs, etc.

 

I see.. so it will be like A1 or B3?

 

Acura Maintenance Schedules | Acura Owners Site

Yes, letters and Numbers.

you've been driving the vehicle for 100k miles already!!
hope you've been paying attention to the MID cluster.

 

Hahaha. Yes, well since 60K. This was my wife's vehicle, I just became the primary driver. I have been paying attention to the MID.. just that I thought there was a basic mileage checklist.
100K = Plugs and tranny fluid and coolant
120K = rear diff.
Ect.

Thanks for the input.. I will keep my eye on my dash!

 

In my opinion, you should change your pressure switches first (3rd/4th gear solenoids).

These aren't in the standard maintenance, but, like my 3G, it made a night and day difference.

 

Have you done the spark plugs and value adjustment yet. You might be due for a coolant change and replacement of serpentine belt by the next 2-3 oil changes. I usually wait until the M.I.D. tells me unless I will be out of town and I want to get it done early.

 

I see.. are these easy to get at.. I assume you drop the trans pan?


I have not done any of that. Are the plugs from the factory 100K plugs?
Valve adjustment..that is best done by the dealer no?

 

There is a how-to on the pressure switches, but I believe they're both simple swap-outs (although one of them may be a PITA to reach). Valve adjustment is definitely possible at home, but it's a bit more involved than your basic oil change or brake job. Even so, valve job is generally only needed if it's making excessive noise, but that doesn't mean you can get in there and fine-tune them if you want. If I remember right, I think you just pull the valve cover and there are some adjusters you play with. You just need the right measuring tool to make sure they're within spec. People that have done it say it takes 2-4 hours depending on your tool availability and how mechanically inclined you are.

Plugs should be good for at least 100k, but plan to spend at least a couple hours changing them if you haven't removed the intercooler before. That is definitely not the 10-minute job it is on most 4-bangers. Serpent belt should be good for ~150k or more, but at 100k definitely start inspecting it regularly.

Finally, I don't think the MID calls out power steering or brake fluid changes. The manual should say to change the brake fluid out every 3 years regardless of mileage, or something similar. Don't even know what it says in regards to power steering, but probably not a bad idea to keep it on the same regimen. Hell of a lot cheaper to flush every 3 years than to replace the whole rack.

 

Thanks for the post... once the weather gets better here I will do some fluid exchanges..

 

Adjusting the valves is not adjusting timing - all you're doing is adjusting the valve clearance. It can be a pain, but you're definitely not going to wreck a valve or piston.
And if you want to put a front mount on you'd be a pioneer...about all the info you'll find on this site are debates about the advantages / disadvantages.

 

I got ya.. thanks for the clarifiication.

My brother was a Subie guy. At least on his STI (I know totally different animal) they all go front mount because of the heat soak being on top of the engine and the better flow in the front bumper?
I was assume these would also apply here but again is the gain worth it?>?

 

Champ, could you clarify the "it made a night and day difference" comment? Did you mean in shift quality/engagement/smoothness? or just general drivability?

 

All depends on your driving style. If you plan on taking your RDX to a road course or hot-lapping it down your neighborhood drag strip, you might appreciate the benefits of a chunky front mount. If you're going to do a big-turbo engine build, it could be worth looking into. Otherwise, you're really fine with the top mount. ETS offers an upgraded IC that fits in the stock location, and really that should be enough for 99.9%. And if you're patient you might save a couple hundred and pick one up used.

 

how difficult are trans flushes on the 07-12?

 

There is a DIY in the how-to area of this forum. Or, if you have a reputable Honda mechanic near you (not a dealer), you should be able to get it done for pretty cheap. I think mine charges 50 bucks or so.

 

$50 for a Transmission Flush (hopefully you mean Replacement). I don't think you can even get the fluid for that price - 12 qts. I think. Maybe just a drain and fill which is 4 qts. On another note, my B1 service light just came on after 10 months of use (not daily driver). Man, that light is annoying. Was going to go to dealer for the oil change, rotation thing. How much do you all think that service is at the dealer? I am figuring close to $100 when all is said and done. I know, I can do it for $35 myself, but want to maintain relationship, just in case something breaks right out of warranty. Thanks all.

 

Everything.

 

Sorry, should have specified. It's for the drain and fill service as indicated by the manual. Definitely not a full flush, but then that's why it generally pops up every more frequently after the first service. Some people perform the drain and fill 3 times back to back to try and get as much fluid out as possible, but even then you're looking at roughly 2/3 fluid exchanged by doing 4 quarts at a time. Obviously each time you do it results in diminishing returns since you're pulling out some of the good fluid with the bad. But, to each their own.

To answer your question on the oil change, With synthetic oil you're probably looking at 70-ish for the oil change at a dealer...not sure if they'll throw in the rotation for free or charge another 20 or so for it. $35 is about right for the DIY-er. $20-25 for a 5qt jug of full synthetic and ~$7 for a Honda oil filter from the dealer.

 

The dealer has a machine that exchanges all the fluid while it's running though correct?

 

They might, but it's not what you get when you have a standard transmission service - even at the dealer. If you get it done there and get an itemized bill (not just "parts"), it'll show the 4 qts of fluid among the other items.

In reading around online it seems there is a fairly divided opinion on the usefulness of complete flushes vs doing more frequent (and cheaper) drain-and-fills. Some sites said dealers would offer the full flush if the customer asked for it, others said dealers don't do it because Honda advises against it. This might also be due to the different types of machines out there that flush the fluids out. Obviously the pressure ones are bad news.

Transmission fluid doesn't age in the same was as engine oil...as far as I can tell. You don't have as much stuff suspended in the fluid (I believe much of it tends to settle at the bottom of the pan) and it doesn't degrade nearly as fast. So if draining 4 quarts every 30k effectively removes the accumulated crud and keeps the fluid fresh, why waste time and money doing anything else?

There will always be people that say one thing or another, and more power to them. I have a Fit with 100k and my RDX is at 75k, my brother has a pair of CR-V's (275k and 150k). All drive and shift great, doing the recommended maintenance.

 

So the Honda recommended transmission fluid change is a simple drain and fill, not the 3X flush then? I noticed 4 qts. of fluid on the service invoice when this was done at the dealer, just before I bought it last summer.

 

Yes the transmission fluid does not get the contaminants that motor oil does as being exposed to the combustion cycle.

It does get hot though and can break down from prolonged heat exposure though.

My RDX has not had one drain and fill yet. I will do one in spring along with the coolant and brake fluid.
I will be busy in the DIY section.

 

Thanks for the info. I just did my brake fluid by gravity bleed a couple weeks ago. Super easy to do and took just under 3 bottles of DOT 3 to clear the MS and all lines.