Wanted to intro myself and ask a few questions. Just got this from the wife as she got a new Highlander.

I know that she has been using 89 octane for awhile (no matter how much bitchin' I did about it.) I was reading about lower octane fuel retarding the timing. Of course I'll be using nothing but 93 octane, but do I need to do anything to make up for her using 89?

Also, will be replacing the air filter. Anyone using the K&N and is it worth it.

Lastly, any tricks I need to know? I got rid of my 02 Audi A6 2.7t and it had a few tricks.

Thanks!

p.s. In York PA, any Acura heads out my way?

 

Hondata!!

http://www.hondata.com/reflash_rdx.html

Priced reduced to $295 (down from $695). You can't find a better mod than this. I'm reflashing the wife's RDX on Monday, 3/29/10.

 

^ I was looking at doing that, didn't know the price had come down. Thanks.

 

If the Highlander is made to run on 89 there is no need to spend extra money and there is nothing to do to "make up for it", that's my opinion.

EDIT: I believe that the RDX is fine running on 91, so if you find it there is no harm in using that one either.

 

What I meant was that my wife (the previous "owner") has been using 89 octane in the RDX.

 

got it....

 

I have used the K&N air filter w/consistent results in MPG increases and subjective feelings of increased throttle response.

My review is cut short there because im not going to incite another riot about +/-'s of the K&N filter.

IMO - it works, and i feel differences with it and vs out. (i take it out seasonally - stock goes in for winters)

 

with the drop in price for hondata -there would really be no reason not to do it. Its basically the only cost effective aftermarket increase around. You could do an exhaust etc but they are hard to come by and will be at least dble the cost and not nearly as effective as the ECU tune.

 

I started that fire before.....
In Mike's defense, some people have praise for the KN, some other don't...to me is like religion.
In the end I decided to spend the 20 bucks on the paper filter and it works fine for me....but I have not tried the KN, so I cannot tell what's "best"

 

Wow, I didn't know about the price drop also, until I read this thread. Thanks guys. So let me get this straight, if I send in my current ECU, will I need to reprogram the immobilizer or anything else when I get it back? Or it is it Plug and play?

This is very very tempting....

 

Love my KN drop it....Support it spending every penny on it. It pays for itself in fuel savings in a year. Then it is profit because you don't have to buy another filter ever!

 

What you are failing to mention is that you do need to buy a filter maintenance kit.....so, you don't buy a filter, but you buy stuff to clean it.....

 

1 kit will last you about 10 cleans & oils..not like its a reason NOT to buy one...
-so if you are doing it lets say every 20k call it - well lol ya it does pay for itself, its 10 extra bucks for cleaner & oil

 

Here is the thing Mike, I got my first change around 30K based on the MID. The KN is something like $50 and the cleaning kit is $15, so let's call it $65. I would need to do three changes (paper filter around $20) to make it even, that's 90K miles.
I think that the return on investment (without taking in consideration the increased response and savings in gas mileage) may not do it for me. With the paper I open the hood, drop the new one in and walk away. I don't know what cleaning the KN means, but at the very least takes more of my time.

I am not advocating for using paper Vs KN, I am just saying that for ME it was not worth it.

 

running my 3rd tank after just recently switching my K&N - 190 miles @ 1/2 tank -- stock is ROUTINE 140-150, always.

 

I'm going with paper this time, will probably pony up for k&n next time.

 

No one answered this question. I would also like to know

 

No programing just plug and play .