When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok...I have solved the mystery of the dreaded SHAWD and Check Engine Light.
If you get a code P2263, which says turbo boost problem, if your car is not making any crazy noises or smoking, you do not need a new turbo. Do not let some idiot mechanics including the dealer tell you that. The SHAWD can come on for a number of reasons. If you get a code that says the knock sensor is bad. Its bad, replace it. If you are only getting the P2263 code, and you only get that one code, your problem is the "turbo actuator" This is not a dealer item, however since Mitsubishi realized this is the problem with the turbo on the Acura RDX, they have made this part and sell it by itself. If you go to the dealer, they only sell the entire turbo, which includes a new actuator. Why buy an entire turbo if you do not need one.
If you go on ebay, there is a company called Turbopark. They sell this actuator, for about $200-$240. Then bring the part to your mechanic and have them install it. You do not neet to remove the turbo to replace it. I paid $200 to have mine replaced. As I supplied the part. This part comes calibrated, however sometimes if after install it still sets the SHAWD light to come on. You need to adjust it. You take a 10mm wrench, crack the nut on the bottom, then turn the middle wide adjustment nut and go counter clockwise 1 full turn. Until you get back to where the yellow mark is. Then tighten the bottom nut. Disconect the negative side of the battery after for 5 minutes. Then connect the negative cable back onto the battery. This clears all the codes. This will fix your problem.
Keep in mind, do not touch the adjustment screw unless you have the new actuator put in and it still triggers the light on. It is set by the factory as to where it should be. Sometimes it needs to be adjusted because it is a new part, and set to work with a new turbo. And since your turbo is older and has wear and tear, you need to adjust the boost of the turbo to compensate for that wear. Basically you are making the actuator work like its a little older by adjusting it. It took me a few months to figure this out. And I'm sharing it with people because I know this issue has driven people nuts with their RDX.
If you go on ebay type in 2007 acura rdx turbo actuator, there is someone else selling a cheaper one. That is a low quality part, and not made by Mitsubishi. Look at the seller, make sure its Turbopark. Or google turbopark turbo, they are in CA. Mitsubishi makes the turbo for thr RDX. And turbopark sells the original part. And it is new.
Ok...I have solved the mystery of the dreaded SHAWD and Check Engine Light.
If you get a code P2263, which says turbo boost problem, if your car is not making any crazy noises or smoking, you do not need a new turbo. Do not let some idiot mechanics including the dealer tell you that. The SHAWD can come on for a number of reasons. If you get a code that says the knock sensor is bad. Its bad, replace it. If you are only getting the P2263 code, and you only get that one code, your problem is the "turbo actuator" This is not a dealer item, however since Mitsubishi realized this is the problem with the turbo on the Acura RDX, they have made this part and sell it by itself. If you go to the dealer, they only sell the entire turbo, which includes a new actuator. Why buy an entire turbo if you do not need one.
If you go on ebay, there is a company called Turbopark. They sell this actuator, for about $200-$240. Then bring the part to your mechanic and have them install it. You do not neet to remove the turbo to replace it. I paid $200 to have mine replaced. As I supplied the part. This part comes calibrated, however sometimes if after install it still sets the SHAWD light to come on. You need to adjust it. You take a 10mm wrench, crack the nut on the bottom, then turn the middle wide adjustment nut and go counter clockwise 1 full turn. Until you get back to where the yellow mark is. Then tighten the bottom nut. Disconect the negative side of the battery after for 5 minutes. Then connect the negative cable back onto the battery. This clears all the codes. This will fix your problem.
Keep in mind, do not touch the adjustment screw unless you have the new actuator put in and it still triggers the light on. It is set by the factory as to where it should be. Sometimes it needs to be adjusted because it is a new part, and set to work with a new turbo. And since your turbo is older and has wear and tear, you need to adjust the boost of the turbo to compensate for that wear. Basically you are making the actuator work like its a little older by adjusting it. It took me a few months to figure this out. And I'm sharing it with people because I know this issue has driven people nuts with their RDX.
If you go on ebay type in 2007 acura rdx turbo actuator, there is someone else selling a cheaper one. That is a low quality part, and not made by Mitsubishi. Look at the seller, make sure its Turbopark. Or google turbopark turbo, they are in CA. Mitsubishi makes the turbo for thr RDX. And turbopark sells the original part. And it is new.
I posted a SHAWD fix...and this guy decided to attach a link saying to buy the actuator from somewhere else. Turbopark sells an original part. Thats why it costs between $200-$240. If you could buy the same part as a genuine Mitsubishi turbo actuator for $54. Turbopark would not be in business. Look at the link, it is a cheap part, it is not calibrated. No markings on the adjuster nut. In addition it will not work or last. Take a look at the one from turbopark. It is night and day. If you want to buy a part for $54 and think it will work. Go ahead. I fixed my car already. And I used the actuator from turbopark.
I posted a SHAWD fix...and this guy decided to attach a link saying to buy the actuator from somewhere else. Turbopark sells an original part. Thats why it costs between $200-$240. If you could buy the same part as a genuine Mitsubishi turbo actuator for $54. Turbopark would not be in business. Look at the link, it is a cheap part, it is not calibrated. No markings on the adjuster nut. In addition it will not work or last. Take a look at the one from turbopark. It is night and day. If you want to buy a part for $54 and think it will work. Go ahead. I fixed my car already. And I used the actuator from turbopark.
Sorry if I offended you. I bought what I linked. I don't have the code, but bought it in advance and I thought it would be a good idea to replace the 17 year old billows. I know the one I got is designed to be the wear point rather than the pivot. Personally, I'm going with a ball bearing insert so wear won't be a problem and adjusting it won't be an issue because I'll have the turbo on the bench.
Sorry if I offended you. I bought what I linked. I don't have the code, but bought it in advance and I thought it would be a good idea to replace the 17 year old billows. I know the one I got is designed to be the wear point rather than the pivot. Personally, I'm going with a ball bearing insert so wear won't be a problem and adjusting it won't be an issue because I'll have the turbo on the bench.
So you had the bearing inserted as a custom job then?
Ok...I have solved the mystery of the dreaded SHAWD and Check Engine Light.
If you get a code P2263, which says turbo boost problem, if your car is not making any crazy noises or smoking, you do not need a new turbo. Do not let some idiot mechanics including the dealer tell you that. The SHAWD can come on for a number of reasons. If you get a code that says the knock sensor is bad. Its bad, replace it. If you are only getting the P2263 code, and you only get that one code, your problem is the "turbo actuator" This is not a dealer item, however since Mitsubishi realized this is the problem with the turbo on the Acura RDX, they have made this part and sell it by itself. If you go to the dealer, they only sell the entire turbo, which includes a new actuator. Why buy an entire turbo if you do not need one.
If you go on ebay, there is a company called Turbopark. They sell this actuator, for about $200-$240. Then bring the part to your mechanic and have them install it. You do not neet to remove the turbo to replace it. I paid $200 to have mine replaced. As I supplied the part. This part comes calibrated, however sometimes if after install it still sets the SHAWD light to come on. You need to adjust it. You take a 10mm wrench, crack the nut on the bottom, then turn the middle wide adjustment nut and go counter clockwise 1 full turn. Until you get back to where the yellow mark is. Then tighten the bottom nut. Disconect the negative side of the battery after for 5 minutes. Then connect the negative cable back onto the battery. This clears all the codes. This will fix your problem.
Keep in mind, do not touch the adjustment screw unless you have the new actuator put in and it still triggers the light on. It is set by the factory as to where it should be. Sometimes it needs to be adjusted because it is a new part, and set to work with a new turbo. And since your turbo is older and has wear and tear, you need to adjust the boost of the turbo to compensate for that wear. Basically you are making the actuator work like its a little older by adjusting it. It took me a few months to figure this out. And I'm sharing it with people because I know this issue has driven people nuts with their RDX.
If you go on ebay type in 2007 acura rdx turbo actuator, there is someone else selling a cheaper one. That is a low quality part, and not made by Mitsubishi. Look at the seller, make sure its Turbopark. Or google turbopark turbo, they are in CA. Mitsubishi makes the turbo for thr RDX. And turbopark sells the original part. And it is new.
Thanks!!! I called Turbopark and ordered the actuator and paid $164 plus tax. This is the price as of today. I live about 40 miles from them so no shipping costs for me. Just picked it up.
Also, I have a 2008 and had a mechanic do the work. He had to remove the valve cover and of course replace the gasket.
Not sure about other year vehicles, but it has to be done on a 2008. Not a hard or long job, but cost me $200 total. Problem solved.
