Help! Upper Control Arm Solution
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Help! Upper Control Arm Solution
Any aftermarket control arms for our car?? Me and dainfamous1 were talking about it and he said a civic control arm would fit but we weren't sure what year can anyone help?
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From: Central FL...PSU Nittany Lion
For anyone else looking to be slammed and having upper control arm issues, I found info that I was looking for, its 88-91 civics (EF chassis) and 90-93 integras (DA chassis)
pictures of it installed:
These kits usually run around $225 from skunk2, the ebay counterpart is much cheaper and has also been proven to work. I'm thinking since CD5's use this solution, it should also fit for our CL's
The only negative aspect is that the arm is shorter than our stock arms, therefore creating negative camber. But I'm guessing if you're slammed enough to need this solution, you don't really care lol
So I was just informed today of a camber kit solution that could revolutionize the accord game. We dont have much of a selection of camber changing solutions for our chassis.
We have ball joints, which work well, but those of us who want to go LOW LOW end up smacking the bottom of the strut tower
Then we have the joints that go in the back of the upper control arm, but sometimes, its just not enough
Skunk2 makes an adjustable upper control arm for 88-91 Civics and 90-93 Integras which is almost a direct bolt on affair to the 94-97 Accord, however the bar between the two bushings must be removed, and the bushings themselves must be replaced with your factory ones because the Accords studs are longer. And thats it!
For those of you that already knew, great. I was just posting this up for those that havent been informed yet
We have ball joints, which work well, but those of us who want to go LOW LOW end up smacking the bottom of the strut tower
Then we have the joints that go in the back of the upper control arm, but sometimes, its just not enough
Skunk2 makes an adjustable upper control arm for 88-91 Civics and 90-93 Integras which is almost a direct bolt on affair to the 94-97 Accord, however the bar between the two bushings must be removed, and the bushings themselves must be replaced with your factory ones because the Accords studs are longer. And thats it!
For those of you that already knew, great. I was just posting this up for those that havent been informed yet
These kits usually run around $225 from skunk2, the ebay counterpart is much cheaper and has also been proven to work. I'm thinking since CD5's use this solution, it should also fit for our CL's
The only negative aspect is that the arm is shorter than our stock arms, therefore creating negative camber. But I'm guessing if you're slammed enough to need this solution, you don't really care lol
Last edited by DaInFaMMuS1; Nov 14, 2010 at 05:03 PM.
i havent heard of the da.... that should be interesting... and about the longer studs... that's interesting... cause a guy who has cd7 didnt have to change it but i have to check
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we have the same suspension setups as the cd5 accords...and some of them have been running skunk2 ef uca's on their cars for awhile. I think it allows you to run up to something like -7 or -8 camber up front for guys with epic aggressive fitment. It won't, however, correct your camber at all...it's just to add more than stock uca's allow.
this.
we have the same suspension setups as the cd5 accords...and some of them have been running skunk2 ef uca's on their cars for awhile. I think it allows you to run up to something like -7 or -8 camber up front for guys with epic aggressive fitment. It won't, however, correct your camber at all...it's just to add more than stock uca's allow.
we have the same suspension setups as the cd5 accords...and some of them have been running skunk2 ef uca's on their cars for awhile. I think it allows you to run up to something like -7 or -8 camber up front for guys with epic aggressive fitment. It won't, however, correct your camber at all...it's just to add more than stock uca's allow.
so, for you guys who run crazy fitment just get your alignment done... make sure toe is 0 and camber is even as possible on both sides...
i bought the skunk2 yesterday, i'll tell you how it goes..
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So, i installed one tonight...
1. you are going to need to use the bolts from the original control arms.
2. you are going to need to drill around the area of the bolts from the bottom to make it bigger.
so, those are two tips that is important..
1. you are going to need to use the bolts from the original control arms.
2. you are going to need to drill around the area of the bolts from the bottom to make it bigger.
so, those are two tips that is important..
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Joined: Nov 2009
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How did it come out?
Okay, so i installed the other one today.... I had the camber kit from TAS AUTO, which is great but the stupid nut bot on the ball joint is annoying...
So, going from that kit to this it is a lot less stiff, Due to the TAS Camber kit had poly bushing which made the car handle amazing.... So, if you are going to go this route, I recommend installing poly bushing with this setup. I will Hopefully get a full bushing set some time soon.
So, Yes....
Install your original oem bolt from your control arms to the skunk2 arms.
Get a grinder to make the hole of the slots where the bolt go in bigger due to the length.
Take your time...
it's an medium project that will take about 2 hrs max....
So, going from that kit to this it is a lot less stiff, Due to the TAS Camber kit had poly bushing which made the car handle amazing.... So, if you are going to go this route, I recommend installing poly bushing with this setup. I will Hopefully get a full bushing set some time soon.
So, Yes....
Install your original oem bolt from your control arms to the skunk2 arms.
Get a grinder to make the hole of the slots where the bolt go in bigger due to the length.
Take your time...
it's an medium project that will take about 2 hrs max....
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 665
Likes: 8
Okay, so i installed the other one today.... I had the camber kit from TAS AUTO, which is great but the stupid nut bot on the ball joint is annoying...
So, going from that kit to this it is a lot less stiff, Due to the TAS Camber kit had poly bushing which made the car handle amazing.... So, if you are going to go this route, I recommend installing poly bushing with this setup. I will Hopefully get a full bushing set some time soon.
So, Yes....
Install your original oem bolt from your control arms to the skunk2 arms.
Get a grinder to make the hole of the slots where the bolt go in bigger due to the length.
Take your time...
it's an medium project that will take about 2 hrs max....
So, going from that kit to this it is a lot less stiff, Due to the TAS Camber kit had poly bushing which made the car handle amazing.... So, if you are going to go this route, I recommend installing poly bushing with this setup. I will Hopefully get a full bushing set some time soon.
So, Yes....
Install your original oem bolt from your control arms to the skunk2 arms.
Get a grinder to make the hole of the slots where the bolt go in bigger due to the length.
Take your time...
it's an medium project that will take about 2 hrs max....
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