Gettin some 18's. Which do yall think?

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Old 11-19-2008 | 12:49 PM
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Mugen678's Avatar
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Gettin some 18's. Which do yall think?

All are 18" HPD wheels.
Scorp is 40mm offset
Shikayne and Stinger are 42mm offset

HPD Scorp GunMetal


HPD Shikayne Black


HPD Stinger I believe they're black, these are GunMetal
Old 11-19-2008 | 09:20 PM
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hmm...
 
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You have any info on this brand? Never heard of them. I personally like the Shikayne's, even though that design is used by just about every major company.
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:57 PM
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They make AutoArt 3 piece wheels, Michael Waltrip Racing wheels, Wolf wheels, and Xtreme Alloys.

Hi-Performance Designs ( HPD ) wheels have one simple goal to continue to go beyond the current trend while always making certain that their customers will be held in the highest regard by their organization. Hi-Performance Designs motto pertains to all aspects of their business because they are always in the pursuit to provide what is “Perfectly Round”.

They're supposidly decent. Not sure other than that. I can get them new for a pretty good price. That's why I'm interested in them. It's my girlfriend's car and were between the stinger and the scorp. thanks. and btw found out earlier that the stingers are gun metal.
Old 11-19-2008 | 10:59 PM
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middle set FTW

1st set is okay but over played,
3rd set, that scorpion on the spoke has to go.
Old 11-20-2008 | 12:14 AM
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yeah that scorpion is about gay. the middle ones were kinda leanin away from theres so much around the rim that makes it look smaller.
Old 11-23-2008 | 02:12 PM
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i like the 1st and 3rd sets the most, but they're pretty run of the mill styles
Old 12-01-2008 | 08:22 PM
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We went with the 3rd ones. They came in and look pretty good, it's a Christmas present so it'll be after then before I get some pics on here. I also picked up some Factory Tuned Springs. They're Falken's old discontinued line of parts. I got them for about 25 bucks new so I wasn't complaining. They have a 2.5"/2.0" drop. Any suggestions or tips when I go to swap em?
Old 12-01-2008 | 08:33 PM
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nice choice, tip change your struts too, get the camber kit and falken made springs?

If you dont get the camber and alignment done quick you'll burn your tires right up.
Old 12-01-2008 | 08:50 PM
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I'm not too sure what to go with, I've been reading all the posts about the struts and I'm still lost. I found Koni Reds for like 105 each on the front and same for rears. What's a good site with good pricing? Falken had a whole line of parts from intakes to exhaust, from sways to springs. They had spoilers and all that other rice stuff too.
Old 12-01-2008 | 09:28 PM
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I'm not sure for the koni reds, since I didn't go very low, I just got kyb gr-2's, so I just got them from rockauto.com, koni's I dont know where the best place is. If I were you I'd probably get the reds since they fit your basic needs. However if you want to be able to adjust them go with the yellows. I'll tell ya what, I just searched around for those springs and there isn't much out there.

Do you know if they're progressive or linear? To know, progressive coils will be tight on one end and loosen up towards the other. Linear are more for coil overs and wont ride as nicely, they have a constant coil. The falkens I saw online were linear, so that's why I ask.
Old 12-02-2008 | 07:31 AM
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I haven't looked them up or anything, I asked if they had anything else for her car when I ordered the wheels and thats what he came up with. I'll know for sure though tomorrow when they come in. I don't need adjustability really, camber is all I'd be interested in. It's my girlfriends car and my money so I'd like to go with a good riding setup but get her on the ground at the same time for the least amount of money possible. I got excited when I seen that thread for the kyb gr2s for 100 bucks, then read they were for the 3.0. =/

Last edited by Mugen678; 12-02-2008 at 07:35 AM.
Old 12-02-2008 | 08:34 AM
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get kyb/agx they go for about $200-300 for a set of 4, and you can adjust how stiff they are
Old 12-02-2008 | 05:12 PM
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Do you know where I can get them in that price range? Cheapest I've found them is about 350.
Old 12-02-2008 | 05:54 PM
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I guess the next question is, Will they handle the 2.5" drop that I'll be giving them. In all honesty stock shocks shouldn't give me any problems other than possibly blowin later down the line. A camber kit is gonna be a definite on whatever I decide on. Shocks aren't gonna kill anyone if they were to go out. Hell I've got friends and myself included with no shocks in their rides. My friend had his 68 Chevelle running for a good 2 and a half years with no shocks, it was a little bouncy but drove fine. My 72 C10 doesn't have any in the back and I'm riding on a half leaf helper spring, It rides great. I haven't really been convinced to run new shocks or not. Like the kid said in one of the other threads, several of his friends rode ebay stuff and were fine, I've got a handful of friends that swear by it, all in which are on stock struts. But then again, they also say it's hit and miss, one set is great and the next is horrid. I'm just lost lol.
Old 12-02-2008 | 07:04 PM
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it's tempting but dont do it. change the struts now, you may not have problems, but if you do, it's a headache. I mean look at it this way you've got like three options.
1) do nothing
might cost you up to $400 for parts and if you need a shop to do it for you count on 1.5hrs per strut, 6hrs......+$350-600 The thing here, when they break, you dont get to choose when it happens.

2)buy cheaper shocks, like say the ones I have GR-2's, now unlike me, you're going down 2.5 instead of 1.5. Doesn't sound like a big difference but it is when the stock suspension only moves maybe 6" you're down to 3.5" of suspension travel(not sure of the exact amounts). They'll wear quicker. You'll probably not see a problem for a year or much longer, but they will break. see "1)" for prices ++though(you do it twice)

3) go all out spend $300-400 on the real deal. Also buy the camber kit $200. Install will still run 350-600+alignment~$70. total $620-870, but you'll probably only do it once.

Now in all seriousness, do what you want, I mean it depends on your priorities. I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but I guess it is blunt.
Old 12-02-2008 | 07:42 PM
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As far as the labor goes, I'm doin it myself so I'm not worried about that cost. I work at a service shop so I can get a good price on an alignment. I am buyin a camber kit, it may not be till after Christmas before I got around to installin that considerin that I still don't have it. I will have the springs tomorrow and everyone locally says run stock. Not trying to be an ass, When you say that it will break, what exactly do you mean? And how would it break? We live outside of Nashville and the roads aren't bad, especially what's travelled on daily.
Old 12-02-2008 | 08:14 PM
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well, they leak out and start to run dry, now full out failure....never had that, but I've busted a few struts before....I'll give you the picture...riding down the street in your sweet slammed CL and you notice everyone looking at ur car, but this time it's not respectful stares....it's different...so you turn down your stereo and hear what sounds like creaking chair, but much louder and it never stops unless your on a super smooth road. So basically it just sucks and as far as performance, well I wouldn't go ripping down some curvy road..bouncy bounce with chair creaking just from personal experience

If you've got full access to a garage, I'd just do what you want then

some tips on the swap
get new lower rear mounts in advance, they'll most likely be seized completely, many people have had it happen. Rockauto sells kyb mounts they're worth the $20 and get new bolts for that as well. it's not a tough job if you're prepared. I did it in a dirt driveway, so that's probably why I sound so foreboding.
Old 12-02-2008 | 08:20 PM
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shoot I forgot in fact with the lower rears you've got to be careful also because the nut is welded to the strut and the bolt is welded to the nut, so knowing all this in advance you might not end up cutting your struts apart trying to get the bolt off, like me. just use an angle grinder to get the nut off and an impact wrench to try to get the bolt loose, if you can't then cut the head off and work the strut off.
Old 12-02-2008 | 10:36 PM
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I appreciate all the info and heads up. Hopefully I'll run across something before too long, I'm gonna check around tomorrow and see if I can get a hookup through anyone I know. Eventually I'll be doin the brake swap, I'm actually going this weekend to a junkyard and thats on the top of the list along with a prelude short throw. Dunno why all of the sudden I've been all out trying to get her car done, I guess wheels motivated me lol. I'm just curious though, how long did your struts last before they went. Thanks again.
Old 12-03-2008 | 10:34 AM
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In the car that they went on me(a 91' accord), 6 months, with a 2.5" drop.
Old 12-03-2008 | 01:52 PM
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How many miles were on them? I wonder if quality changed from 91 to 98. I was talking to some of my friends today and one has a 92 civic with maybe 1.5" drop and a 06 tc with a 2.0". Both cars have been driving about a 40 mile trip everyday into Nashville plus what they do around town. They live in the country so theres plenty of dips and s curves, neither car has had a problem. The tc has trd springs so it didn't void the warranty. I've got a friend that had a 03 eclipse that ran eibachs for a couple of years before sellin it. Integras, ludes, hatches, then plenty of domestics. yadda yadda yadda, what I'm gettin at is that no one I know has had any problems. I think I've decided to run stock for now and put away some money a little at a time at just leave it on the back burner. Still gonna get a camber kit before Christmas so I don't ruin the 18's.
Old 12-05-2008 | 07:45 AM
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bare in mind that these are from my phone on wednesday, that and after we took it for a spin it come down another 3/4" or so




springs


after




and a little teaser of whats to come



it was dark when i finished so i didnt take anymore pics and yesterday it rained
Old 12-05-2008 | 05:04 PM
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Old 12-06-2008 | 11:42 PM
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nice looking!

Feels great not to have a 4x4 right?

To answer your question, my accord had 97k mi when I lowered her. The struts had been replaced once before. I'm sure you'll be fine, sometimes we just cant justify the cost of doing something "proper," I was merely telling you what I've been told a million times and had a bad experience with once. I infer no sarcasm, the car looks great, here's one pic of mine on the neuspeed springs. They're pretty close.
Old 12-08-2008 | 07:34 AM
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Yeah, yours looks good. I had a friend tell me that he seen some sparks when we turned down this street, gonna have to watch that. D= It doesn't look like a 4x4 now but it sure as hell rides like one. lol. It rides almost identically to my Z71 without the travel haha. Gonna learn real quick how to maneuver it.
Old 12-08-2008 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mugen678
Dunno why all of the sudden I've been all out trying to get her car done
This forum doesn't help either
Old 12-08-2008 | 12:55 PM
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hey 'Mugen678' send me a PM or IM me on Yahoo @ BDLinFLA. im at ft. campbell, but am in nashville almost every weekend. and i too have a black CL.
Old 12-08-2008 | 12:55 PM
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p.s. nice look on the car. they look much better lowered to the ground, cant wait to see it with the wheels
Old 12-08-2008 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
This forum doesn't help either
I found that any forum I belong to causes me to have an insatiable obsession with whatever the interest.

Mugen- the ride will smooth out, as others told me and I noticed as well, it takes about 2 weeks of somewhat heavy driving to break em in. Although my back still gets aggravated on rough roads now, not nearly as jarring as when I first lowered. Everything is a compromise.
Old 12-08-2008 | 01:33 PM
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I figured it would get somewhat better. I'm gonna be pulling out my stereo junk and installing a 12 I guess now. Shes been bugging me to do it. I've got a 1000w kenwood amp and a compvr and an older excelon sub, haven't decided which I was gonna put in. They've both about had it, I've soldered on em and everything else to keep em going. lol. I bought a 200x2 transana fosgate amp the other day, I'm excited about puttin it in my truck. I bought it for her but it'll suit me better. =)
Old 12-08-2008 | 02:28 PM
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A sub does make a big difference. Do you have the Bose HU in?

Once you get it going you get to find all the little rattles. I thought I had a blown rear speaker till I messed with it the other day and realized the whole rear deck was rattling. A small tear of cardboard jammed in between the dash and the glass fixed that. Alas dynomat is the only way to go. When you do install, keep your pass through to the trunk open to port it, cleans up the distortions well. What kind of box do you have? I used a cubical ported box, sounds great, however it isn't really punchy.
Old 12-08-2008 | 10:11 PM
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I don't remember what was in it, I don't think it was. I'm running a kenwood hu now, it's a cheapy that I put in my boat. She didn't want the good one I pulled outta my car so I swapped em. The rear speakers sound awesome, probably the best sounding speakers I've ever heard. They do bass really well so thats why I've put off doing a sub. The front speakers were dead when she got the car, so I was quick to put in some polk db's. I built 2 cubed sealed boxes to the compvr's minimal specs. I blew one and fixed the kenwood and put it in it. I fiberglassed it and ran it in my boat all year and it did fine. I don't like big boxes cause I like my trunk space. I had both boxes in a mustang and had absolutely no room for anything.

Last edited by Mugen678; 12-08-2008 at 10:14 PM.
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