Rear brakes
#1
Rear brakes
I have a 99 CL 3.0
I have already replaced the front brakes and found this to be ridiculously easy especially since the pads are shimless. I just unbolted one end of the caliper, and installed the new pads.
Since the rear brakes also have the emergency brake, is the procedure the same for replacing the pads? Is there an extra step to account for the emergency brake?
I have already replaced the front brakes and found this to be ridiculously easy especially since the pads are shimless. I just unbolted one end of the caliper, and installed the new pads.
Since the rear brakes also have the emergency brake, is the procedure the same for replacing the pads? Is there an extra step to account for the emergency brake?
#3
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Regional Coordinator
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#6
Senior Moderator
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#8
Front and rear on 97 to 99 are very easy. Nice if you have a brake bleeder and piston compressor.
Otherwise it will take about 1 hour for the rear. If the rotors have grooves then you'll need to take it to the brake shop. They will turn them smooth for $10-$15 each.
Don't forget to top off you brake fluid.
Otherwise it will take about 1 hour for the rear. If the rotors have grooves then you'll need to take it to the brake shop. They will turn them smooth for $10-$15 each.
Don't forget to top off you brake fluid.
#9
I just finished my rear brakes. There is a great video series over at ehow on the subject.
Anyway the only 2 gotchas I encountered were not correctly positioning the piston over the new pad so the groove lines up with the notch on the inner pad and the fact that my shitty craftsman jack does not jack my car up enough to get my jack stands underneath. So far I've only tried using the little loop of metal at the end of the gas tank in the rear. Using this I did not even get my rear wheels off the ground. I instead opted for using the trolley jack to jack up each side to get the jack stands underneath.
There has to be a better way to jack up this damn car anybody know?
1999 cl 3.0 auto trannsmission
Anyway the only 2 gotchas I encountered were not correctly positioning the piston over the new pad so the groove lines up with the notch on the inner pad and the fact that my shitty craftsman jack does not jack my car up enough to get my jack stands underneath. So far I've only tried using the little loop of metal at the end of the gas tank in the rear. Using this I did not even get my rear wheels off the ground. I instead opted for using the trolley jack to jack up each side to get the jack stands underneath.
There has to be a better way to jack up this damn car anybody know?
1999 cl 3.0 auto trannsmission
#10
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
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There really are no good jack points on our cars, I usually use the stock jack points on the sides
#12
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
I replaced the brakes on my 97 right after i got the car and the fronts went very easy but the rears took me awhile because I couldn't get them to compress with a c clamp, tried and tried and nothing, then I noticed the slot and turned it with a big screw driver and it went in very easy. So the fronts took about 30 minutes and the first rear took about 3 hours but the second rear took about 45 minutes once I realized you have to turn the piston in instead of squeezing it in like the fronts
#13
Suzuka Master
I replaced the brakes on my 97 right after i got the car and the fronts went very easy but the rears took me awhile because I couldn't get them to compress with a c clamp, tried and tried and nothing, then I noticed the slot and turned it with a big screw driver and it went in very easy. So the fronts took about 30 minutes and the first rear took about 3 hours but the second rear took about 45 minutes once I realized you have to turn the piston in instead of squeezing it in like the fronts
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