New/old 98 cl3.0

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Old May 3, 2012 | 11:48 AM
  #1  
Hellfire's Avatar
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New/old 98 cl3.0

So i bought a 98 Cl the other week and have been reading up on the cars, i notice a slip in the trans in first and the engine feels like its misfiring when it does i can feel the car vibrate or shake. Could a clogged up cat do that? if so where would i be able to get a test pipe? Or is that problem a valve? if its that then i will rebuild the heads just need to know where Acura people shop :P Also i have a 1000 amp running one twelve and soon two be 2 1000 watt amps running 2 twelves and noticed the alternator can't really handle that so i wanna know where i can get one thats gonna give me more power consistently its kinda annoying having everything dim when i signal.. Car has roughly 150k... speedometer or sensor is buggered..

But thats my car and its problems! Its not perfect but im loving it more then my olds Alero
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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pitbullLOVER's Avatar
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From: cockpit of a CL
Originally Posted by Hellfire
So i bought a 98 Cl the other week and have been reading up on the cars, i notice a slip in the trans in first and the engine feels like its misfiring when it does i can feel the car vibrate or shake. Could a clogged up cat do that? if so where would i be able to get a test pipe? Or is that problem a valve? if its that then i will rebuild the heads just need to know where Acura people shop :P Also i have a 1000 amp running one twelve and soon two be 2 1000 watt amps running 2 twelves and noticed the alternator can't really handle that so i wanna know where i can get one thats gonna give me more power consistently its kinda annoying having everything dim when i signal.. Car has roughly 150k... speedometer or sensor is buggered..

But thats my car and its problems! Its not perfect but im loving it more then my olds Alero

hello, well a lot of things could give symptoms. bad or the wrong tranny fluid can give issues. a clogged cat could do this but to clog a cat the car has to first be too rich a mixture and then the cat has to over heat. you can find a test pipe on e-bay my brothah, i bought a stainless one with gaskets for my girl for $60, one from a 2000 honda accord works for the v6 and a 1997 accord for the4 bangers ( you will need a C.E.L. eliminator for the o2 sensor-.. see my garage, i have a pictur of my test pipe and eliminator). probably not a valve, i had a similar problem that i brought up on a different post and some asshole tryed to roast me,l lol, asshole, any way, a bad timming belt can do fucked up shit, my 1999 honda cr-v had a problem, i replaced everything, cat to a hi-flow, new exhaust, full tune up, sensors, i had no codes, finnally i conceeded and took it to acura, the timming belt was bad, a gear slipped a cogg and the valves needed adjusted, its a new vehical now, its kinda quick for a 4 banger, keep in mind i dont think v6 valves are adjustable.

finnaly, get a power cap for your amp, 1 pharid (im in a rush and aint spell checking) or higher will do and a grounding kit with voltage stabalizer will help too, ebay has power alternators but its a dice toss with ebay. any way a full sterio can be 350lbs. +, thats gonna kill your out of the gate/off the line time... just sayin.

well , let us know how it goes.
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Old May 3, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #3  
timeizmoney22's Avatar
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From: Hartford,Ct
My 3.0 is sluggish when taking off from a start like a civilized adult. Seems like you have to apply extra force on the gas pedal. If I gun it it goes like any other car though. Would like to know what is the problem with mine as well. Also, I have 2 12 inch Alpine type R's with a Crossfire BMF 1000watt amp and I have the same issue with lights dimming and tach movement on deep bass. I actually think it affects my transmission sometimes, but that could be my imagination. You could also get one of those kinetik dry cell batteries for the trunk and run the system off that. I considered it but don't need it.
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Old May 3, 2012 | 09:13 PM
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jims3.0's Avatar
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From: Bloomingdale Illinois
I dont know what power cables your using but I have zero guage power wire with 250 amp blade fuse to the battery. All connections are vital as well. Ground has to be solid to the chassis. Make sure paint is removed with a wire brush, and add an extra heavy ground off the battery to the chassis under the hood. Oem battery grounds are usually 8 guage. 1500 watt kicker amp on two L7 solo barics. I get zero dimming.
Im a firm believer the power wire is much more important than a cap. Caps help but I havent had one in years. A good fresh battery is a must too.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:37 AM
  #5  
pitbullLOVER's Avatar
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From: cockpit of a CL
Originally Posted by timeizmoney22
My 3.0 is sluggish when taking off from a start like a civilized adult. Seems like you have to apply extra force on the gas pedal. If I gun it it goes like any other car though. Would like to know what is the problem with mine as well. Also, I have 2 12 inch Alpine type R's with a Crossfire BMF 1000watt amp and I have the same issue with lights dimming and tach movement on deep bass. I actually think it affects my transmission sometimes, but that could be my imagination. You could also get one of those kinetik dry cell batteries for the trunk and run the system off that. I considered it but don't need it.

well my friend, in your case it sounds like you answered your own question. our 1st gen. cl 3.0 are heavy as and elephant, lol and if you have the premium oh man shes a chunky girl and with that sterio she is full blown obese, and if you your self are 200lbs. when you have all that weight siting still and want it moving rapidly it takes alot of energy to fight all that inertia.

it depends what you want out of your car, every one is different with different tastes, sterio's, lowered, race preped, stock, dont matter mang as long as you keep it clean and maintained.
, stock they are like 1450 kg's. i know i got 100 ( bout 200 lbs.) kg's off for sure, the scales here are in kg. i hope im 1300kg's with me in the car but 1350kg's is more realistic although i removed a lot of stuff and lightened a lot more. , im 205lbs. ( bout 95kg's)

as for the dimming lights on base hits , check all ground connections, clean them to the shinny metal, get bigger ground cables, increas # of ground cables, get ground kit and voltage stabalizer, get power cap fpr you amp.,
and yes too much drain on the system will cause issues with the sensors and electronics. you can get a volt meter and test the resistance , then reground stuff and test again, if you notice a drop in resistance you know the grounds were dirty/couldnt handle the power., hope this helps.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 12:39 AM
  #6  
pitbullLOVER's Avatar
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From: cockpit of a CL
Originally Posted by jims3.0
I dont know what power cables your using but I have zero guage power wire with 250 amp blade fuse to the battery. All connections are vital as well. Ground has to be solid to the chassis. Make sure paint is removed with a wire brush, and add an extra heavy ground off the battery to the chassis under the hood. Oem battery grounds are usually 8 guage. 1500 watt kicker amp on two L7 solo barics. I get zero dimming.
Im a firm believer the power wire is much more important than a cap. Caps help but I havent had one in years. A good fresh battery is a must too.
great advice, most cars even with out sterios could benifit from some ground cleaning and new wires.
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