the dealer has replaced any and all on the car but my 2.2 is missing power. i put the pedal to the floor and she dosn't go very well..the transmission is fine...now my question is can the distrib be installed slitely wrong?......i did have a check engine light come on. had it read,,,,cycl 1&2 where miss firing....i reset it and the light hasn't come back....oh i had the injectors cleaned too......ideas??????????

 

well....looking at the timing tomarro

 

ok..checked and all where good..
timing new
cleaned egr ports
distrib new
wires new
plugs new
fuel filter new
injectors working
fuel pressure good
cly pressure good
what else am i missing here. i'v spent hours googling this. there are tons of post on misfires but no answers, or next to no ideas. is there anyone on here than knows of anything about are cars.

 

do u still have a misfire code after replacing all that? have u ridden in other 2.2 1g's for comparison? could just b the nature of the beast.

 

the check eng light came on again tonight...same thing misfire cyl 1&2....and yes i drove another 2.2..it had more get up than mine and 50,000 more miles on it

 

Might be something more electrical rather than something mechanically. Maybe theres a short somewhere around the car? Just throwing out some suggestion.

- RemieGino14 -

 

when you say timing new what do you mean? Timing belt? If not; this could help tighten up the engine a bit. Also; what type of plugs did you use? If you did all this and the light came back on; I would like to know the codes if you dont mind? I work at the acura dealership and wouldn't mind cross referencing them for you..another thing to check : air filter and intake hose( you'd be surprised), vacumn leaks ( hoses that are cracked disconnected or rotted)..sometimes the simplest things are over looked.i also would like to know how you cleaned your injectors? One word :seafoam. Orr chevron techron if you dont trust the seafoam.

 

my friend has a 98 accord 2.3 who was getting multiple misfire codes after replacing damn near the whole ignition system. turned out to be a crescent shaped crack in one of his valves...looked like someone took a mini bite out of it.

 

i did use seafoam, and i ment timing belt....i scaned it today and have a differnt code...i lost the paper but it said either o2 sencer, misfire, or injector...now i didn't do the timing my self. the gut i got the car from did 5 months ago and i have the recite from a local shop..'i would never"....so i'm thinking the cam timing is off. but i don't have a book and i'v read two things about the cam. the UP on the cam should point where?....toward the back?, by that i mean level back or with the angle of the head?.......or straight up?????

 

all so i don't know crap about setting timing. i turned the motor so the UP on the cam was pointing back...i haven't taken off the lower cover yet but i noticed the timing mark thing and 3 holes on the pully...those holes are all to the left about 1/8 of a inch from the mark...does this mean anything with out putting the gun to it....and this car has me going crazy, i know i might be over thinking this thing...i miss my k20...hahaha

 

when you said misfire code the first thing that came to my mind was valves also like what was said above. If the cam is not in time with the crank it can do allot of damage to the valves because they are not opening and closing when they are supposed to with the pistons and even a little bit can cause allot of valve problems all the way up to going straight through the piston (I have seen it before). But I would at least do a compression check on each cylinder and see what you have. I would think a misfire would also cause an 02 sensor to throw a code because the gas isn't burning like it should but not 100% sure on this

 

he said in the second post "cyl pressure good" im assuming this meant compression which would make a valve problem unlikely...what are the codes they may help shed some light on things...not the meaning the actual code itself

 

agreed ^ : now just so you know; autozone uses a generic code scanner which does not pinpoint issues. therefore giving you " probable causes". again; give us codes!! Im at the dealer right now and can look them up.
2nd) if it said somethin about 02 sensor maybe a p0141/p0420/etc. could be a bad o2,and could make it run like shit. even bogging out. reason being the o2 sensor is throwing false readings, so the ECU isn't mixing the correct amount of air:fuel. a 420 code usually indicates a failed secondary o2 sensor, or the cat itself.

 

sorry guys,,,i had to find the paper, and thanks for helping me out here...
the code is P0172

 

tell if i'm wrong but what i found poking around the net is either o2 or timing

 

According to our service manual;
Primary 02 sensor
vacuumn leak
or Map sensor.
troubleshooting is required. like i said;if you go over the whole engine bay,and all hoses seem intact, I'd change O2 sensor. just did it on mine. pretty easy.

 

MAP is unlikly...if your going the o2 sensor replacement route...you can get OEM denso 4 wire o2 sensors which are plug and play on ebay for about 50 dollars...just find the Denso part number then search "denso xxxxxx" on ebay...these are the same ones which came on the car new in 97-99. i bought one a few months ago and it was a hell of a deal and a breeze to replace

 

yea; map rarely is the issue on these vehicles. i dont know how many miles you have on your CL. but regardless due to the year;its advisable to replace o2's.

 

i just replaced the 02 and reset the engine light...it shifts alittle better, but still feels under powered....i guess after driving it for a few we shall see if the light comes back. and i just hit 120,000

 

what kind of oil do you use if you dont mind me asking? what weight specifically..? too heavy a weight could make it feel like its struggling; try a seafoam in your gas tank; i put in half a bottle before fill up..

 

i have used the seafoam, two cans total here lately..
i'v been using the penz high milage 10w30. i also fill up with 89oct.....100 miles now a no check engine light...but the car still slugish.....i'll take a vid today of the rpms at wow and maybe some of you can tell me if this is the norm or not.

 

i decided not to put up the vid. the car is running good today. and as far as power i belive it performs what a sohc should perform. 'kinda slow' but i didn't pick the car up to race. mabe a header is in the future to help some. who knows......i'll keep the up dates coming as i put some milage on the new parts

 

well i found a small vac leak.nothing major. the clamp wasn't on there all the way. still running good. now i just need to pick up 4 rotors, pads, wheel bearings, mabe some shocks, they do have over 100k on them.

 

a small vacuum leak can cause allot of power loss especially on a small engine like the 2.x engines. I used to always take a piece of extra hose and put it to my ear and run the other side around the engine to find any vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks anywhere in the engine compartment. Either way glad its running better for you now

 

still no problems other than its slow..haha

 

yea ull have that

 

lol again; idk what kind of car you're used to, but its a 4000 pound car, with a 2.3 liter engine.. no speed racer whatsoever. lol
btw good way to check for vac leaks is a can of brake cleaner, or if you have a propane tank(not lit obviously) spray or aim the gas around vac hoses;listening for change in idle or abrupt surges.

 

get this.....i washed the engine w/pressure washer and of course i got some water in plugs so i was cleaning them out and when i was twisting the the sparkplug wire with the towel its started twisting. i was like wtf...i didn't try twisting them off but tighted all of them and she runs alittle better...the plug wires are from the dealer. i had no idea they twisted, i always thought they where one peice........
and the some of my power missing is the transmission, she isn't shot yet but def starting to mess up. i think it will stall last me a year or so as long as i'm easy on it

 

well the thermestate went, and for all who is reading this u must get the honda one, the temp rating is lower than what u can get from a auto parts store...belive me i tryed and could not figure out to save my life that the reason i was running hot. it was from a autozone thermestate...but now i belive the pep that was missing is back....a slitely blocked up thermestate was it..hard to belive but whats u going to do...and yes i can't spell

 

just replaced the rotors and what a b*tch, with new wheel bearings... its rolling even better... i'm at the point where i think the car is tip top....now looking into a cal,header, and pullys just for that extra ump,,,and some new shocks."cant take a corner to save my life"

 

tourque converter?

 

well the trans is running fine now....since it was running on the hot side it was throwing off [shift points]. now it shifts like a champ

 

let me kno if the pulleys are worth it when u get em installed