it's not fluctuating it just stays at 200 or so I used to be at 1,000. Does anyone know what it could be and how I'd go about fixing it? thanks!

 

Are you sure it is 200RPM? Our tachs dont even go that low. Last time I checked my 97 3.0, it only went to 500. So idle would be 750 for me.

 

each little bar is 200 the fifth bar is on 1000

 

Check this thread for changing gauge cluster lights. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=gauges

You can see it only starts at 500. The first hash being 0, second is 500, third 750, then 1000 etc etc.

Is the car idling rough at all?

I was confused by this for a while myself

 

^^ that would be for the 97 gauge cluster. For the 98-99, the first hash is 0, second 500, third 625, fourth 750, fifth 875 and sixth 1000 in RPMs.

 

^ werd that's what i have, got soo confused too my bro had to explain it to me

disconnected vacuum lines can cause the low idle, had it on my Cadillac
but i'm sure there is other possible causes aswell, good luck

 

thanks I also learned you can loosen screws on the throttle body and it should help but it didn't lol. I have a 98-99 cluster swap from a 3.0 maybe this is why? Because I have a 2.2?? IDK

 

When was the last time you got an E-test? Usually the report provides the idle RPM. There is also a percent error in what is displayed on the tach and actual engine speed. I have heard that error can be up to 300RPM from what the ECM reads and what is actually displayed on the cluster.

Cluster gauge swaps will not change between 97 to 98-99 and between 2.2-2.3 and 3.0. It is still the same RPM increment and minimum displayed RPM.

IMHO I would not worry about this at all. Unless the idle feels rough or oscillates, I would not worry about it!

 

thanks!

 

some cars have a base idle set screw (BISS) on the throttle body that you can loosen to raise idle and tighten to lower idle. i havent taken a hard look at the 2.2 throttle body though to know if it has one. but if you messed w it you would probably remember it. enless you took it to a shop recently for some work and they adjusted it.

 

when i first purchased my car... it was rough at idle, and sometimes would drop to the last tick and almost stall out.

when i was working on my IM and TB alot of gunk and carbon build-up especially in the IM and the EGR passage. some TB cleaner took care of it, gave it some seafoam..

and now it idles perfectly and smooth

there is a DIY in here somewhere about checking / cleaning the TB and EGR

but i mean if the car runs smooth, ^^ could be due to the swap

 

Ill look for that tb cleaner and I just got an oil change so ill wait for the seafoam lol. Shaun was messing with the tb screw and nothing happened. Yea the needle is wayyyyy low almost on 0 I kinda feel like it's going to stall out.

 

yea if its never been cleaned like mine... it may be the case. im not sure where the EGR port is on the 2.2 but im sure someone has run across this and posted it.

have you looked at your plugs?

 

the plugs have like 10k miles on them. I loosened the tb screw my self and yea no difference. I gotta find the post on how to clean the egr valve and tb. Im doin sea foam when i need another oil change. You think i'll be safe with 100k miles?

 

as long as its not stalling out at red lights and such... its more a nuisance, worst thing it might throw a code, egr insufficient flow or somethign like that.

with the egr valve, best to just replace it .. i think its a cheap part, the cleaning is needed in the upper and lower egr passages, you'll know when u take it apart

u should be alright im over 125k miles, what u can do if its really bugging u, do a half and half with the seafoam, but be careful with this, i did this but it was after i cleaned everythign out manually. if u have alot of buildup u might clogg your cat or foul your plugs.

good luck man

 

thanks brotha