I just bought my daughter a 98' CL 2.3 last week. The guy I bought it from had jerry rigged the relay in front of car for the AC compressor and fan by using an on/off switch. He said it only needed a new relay so I bought the car. Well, the relay I replaced didn't work, so I bought another for climate control side also. Now I have 2 new relays that didn't solve me problems. $100.00 in relays! The climate control won't work, it won't even light up. Neither one of the fans on the radiator will kick on even when it gets hot. The AC compressor won't work either w/o climate control operation. HELP!!!!!!!!!! Is there another relay that I'm not aware of? Could it be a dead short? Damn! Its such a nice car , only 87,000 on it. I just can't afford to have a mechanic charge $400.00 for a $20 part.
Any suggestions would be APPRECIATED. Thanx Jim

 

thats a damn shame, good luck with that

 

Check these:

Under - Hood fuse box:
Fuse No. 17
Fuse No. 18
Fuse No. 21
Fuse No. 34
Fuse No. 39
Radiator Fan Relay

Under - Dash Fuse/Relay Box:
Fuse No. 4
Fuse No. 8
Blower Motor Relay

Under - Dash on Passenger Side
Blower Motor High Relay

Near Condenser fan (fan on driver side):
Condenser Fan Relay
Compressor Clutch Relay

The relay PIN layout is as following:
░┌─═══─┐░
1│─ ░ ─│2
3│─ ░ ─│4
░└─────┘░

Testing Relays
There should be continuity between No.1 and No.3 terminals when power and ground are connected to the No.2 and No.4 terminals, and there should be no continuity when power is disconnected.

I find it odd that the climate control module does not light up. Even if the module does not have connection to any of the respected components it controls and/or retrieves readings, it should still light up. Try running the Self-diagnosis Function. You can do this by turning the ignition switch to ON (II). After one minute, press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, if any of the fan bars, A/C on text, or the arrow pointing to the feet of the stick figure illuminates, then you have a fault, open or short. You can exit this mode by turning the ignition switch OFF.

If that does not illuminate the control module, I would check to see if it is getting power. This is the BLK/YEL wire on the back of the module. There should be two of them on Pins No. 2 and No. 7. I believe the the main ground is on the BLK wire (Pin No. 4).

 

Thank you Nakamichi, you've been a great help! It was a blown fuse @ #4 that wouldn't turn on climate control. I got that to work and found out the AC compressor wouldn't work, I think its shot. I put freon in it and jumped the relay to manually run it and it still wouldn't pump. The suction side pipe never got cool or even cold. Soooooooo I was feeling really good last nite about solving the relay situation even though the AC won't work. Went to my neighborhood pub to reward myself when I got a call from my daughter. She informed me that her car wouldn't start. I came home and sure as hell I turned the car on and "CLICK"!
Noooo click cclick click just click. The battery had a good charge in it and the terminals are all clean. So today I'll be working on it AGAIN! Could be the starter solenoid or the starter itself. But, I need to find exactly where they are located and see if I can get to it! lol. But, I did want to thank you again Nakamichi for your insight you saved me alot aggrevation. Well at least my daughter was happy for a few hours! Thanks again, Jim

 

The starter is in an easily accessable location. good luck

 

yeah that single click is prob. a bad starter if the battery is good, do it yourself its easy to get to and you'll save about $200 in labor, i believe a new/refurbished starter is about $100

 

tap the starter with a hammer or something, then try to start it. if it starts then, than its most likely a bad starter.

 

That's def the starter, if you know how to change them, you can find a cheap rebuilt one on ebay

 

If you want to fix the starter yourself, you can buy solenoid contacts from Sherco Auto Supply (google for link). Some nice pics of the repair on their site also. Requires a 100+ watt soldering iron, but simple repair.

Regarding your AC problem, both engine cooling fans should run w/ AC OFF, if thermoswitch A closes when coolant temps reaches 200F. If car overheats, thermoswith A is faulty, wiring defect, or both fans have failed.

When AC is On (compressor engages), both fans should run regardless of coolant temp. If your fans never engage, the AC diode may be open. Both fans are grounded through the AC diode when compressor is grounded by ECU.

good luck

 

have you called Acura Customer Care, to see if you fall under any recalls?

800 382 2238

Have your VIN # ready.

Won't hurt to at least give them a call real quick.