I am hoping someone out there can help me. I have a 97 2.2 CL with 230K. My job requires me to drive 100% so I put about 800K a week on the car. Couple of weeks ago I went to NJ STate Inspection and it failed. The EGR system showed as not ready. 2 years ago my former mechanic fixed it for $200. He said he had to do some special drive cycle and it would reset. I think it took him a 1/2 hour. That is why he is not my mechanic anymore. However, is anyone familur with this issue? Can someone tell me what the drive cycle procedure is?

I also want to replace the OBD CPU. Where is it located on the 1997 2.2 CL?

Thank you

Tony

 

230k whoa

An irrelevant question, but have you had to replace the tranny?

 

Is the Check Engine Light On? Any diagnostic trouble code (DTC) extracted? If car failed emissions test due to high NOX, your problem is likely simply blocked EGR manifold ports, manifold lines, and possibly EGR itself. Any decent Honda/Acura mechanic will know exactly what to do.

When the ECU is reset (did someone very recently replace battery or disconnect battery?), the engine must go through a diagnostic cycle before diagnostic is complete. If you bring a car in for a an inspection, and the diagnostic test is incomplete the test is failed. Generally driving for 30 minutes or so at commuting speeds will complete the test.

Many times, if the Check Engine Light is set, somone will reset the ECU immediately before an emissions test to hopefully pass the test. They will not pass if the OBD2 system shows a diagnostic as incomplete.

The ECU is on the floorboard beneath the carpet on the passenger side. ECU's very rarely fail. Why do you think your's has failed?

good luck

 

With 230K the trans has never needed to be replaced. When I 1st got it with 80K the trans felt like it was slipping a bit. However, when I replaced the trans fluid with Honda A/T recommended fluid the slipping stopped. Since then I have replaced the fluid about 3 - 4 times. I will say each time I replace the fluid and clean the magnetic plug, I do have a lot of metal. Knock on wood, everything is still running strong.

 

So I figured out what is going on with my car. The problem now is how do I get it to pass NJ Inspection. I rented a OBDII scanner from my local Autozone (they have a free rental program for all types of special tools) and ran the I/M Monitor to check the EGR System. At start-up the EGR came on as NOT READY. I then took the car for a quick drive and within a mile or two the EGR system went to READY. When I turned off the car and started it back up the EGR system read NOT READY. Drove it again for a mile or 2 and the EGR system went to READY. It seems during NJ Inspection they are turning my car on and off. When they turn the car back on to test the emissions the ERG system shows as NOT READY and fails. Is the ERG system suppose to always be in the ready mode when you start and restart your car? Is there something wrong with my CPU or EGR system for resetting itself to NOT READY when the car is turned off and back on? If so, how do I fix it? I need to pass NJ Inspections and do not feel I need to spend $???? because the DMV is turning my car on and off, which is not part of the inspection method.

I have no check engine light on.

 

I read the Acura Shop Manual for my 97 2.5TL which likely has same EGR monitoring system as your CL.

The EGR problem check procedure is to reset the ECU and test drive w/ 1) no electrical load, AT in D4, accelerate gradually from 50mph for at least 8 secs, UNTIL THE READINESS CODE COMES ON. This suggests that your ECU may be resetting when keyswitch is OFF. I don't think the behavior is correct.

I would suggest performing the above procedure and see if the sequence of appearing not ready at startup is changed after completing two drive cycles.

I have observed on my car that if a ECU reset is performed the Evaporative Emission System takes a long time to achieve Ready status (diagnostic tests complete), so if you reset you may have to wait for all tests to come to a ready state.

good luck

 

One part of the emissions check is to verify your check engine light (CEL). Typically this can be verified when initially turning the ignition to the ON position. This is the reason why some shops will turn off then back on your car. Another part of the emissions test is to verify that the CEL can be forcefully turned on through the ECM. Some shops will use the later step to complete both steps.

The EGR can throw a code anytime; however, to make the CEL turn on, the EGR has to throw a code in two consecutive drive cycles. As you explained this doesn't seem to be the case. You may have an open in the wire between the ECM and EGR. For starters check for loose connections at the EGR, ECM, and there are two connectors from the EGR near the front right and left shock towers.

I like your mechanic story of the “special drive cycle.” At least it’s better than my friend’s mechanic incident. She has a CEL and a mechanic fixed it by removing the bulb. She figured it out a year later when emissions failed her for a malfunction (because there wasn’t one) bulb.

 

where in nj are you? i might be able to hook it up.

 

SOrry I have not been om the board lately, been away. TexasHonda, thank you for the procedure. I will try it over the weekend and see if it works. You thing with over 230K that this probelm could be happening because of too much carbon build-up around the ERG? I was thinking when I check for loose connectors to remove the valve and try to see if how much carbon there is. Only problem with that is I have never worked on an ERG before so I am not sure 1) how to clean the carbon if I find any. 2) where the ERG actually is in the car since my Chilton manual does not show a picture of it. It does have the removal procedure, which looks very easy. Just need to locate it now.

Subbuzz, I am in Toms River, NJ but in Northern, NJ all the time. e-mail me at tke425kh@aol.com. I could use any help you got.

Thank you all again

Tony

 

thank god i custom made a inspection sticker. i dont have to worry about any of this stuff.

 

The term is EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). Carbon usually builds on the EG manifold and piping downstream (EG flow direction) of the EGR valve. In my experience, the EGR valve is rarely blocked or causing the problem. You should remove, inspect, and clean the EGR valve, passages, EGR manifold, and EGR ports into the intake manifold to thoroughly clean the EGR system.

I have a pdf procedure for Accords. The TL EGR system and cleaning procedure is similar although parts are located differently. You need an Acura shop manual to guide your work. PM me if you want the procedure.

good luck