Air conditioner problem with my 1997 CL
#1
Air conditioner problem with my 1997 CL
I am a new member of this excellent Acura community. I have a 1997 Acura 3.0 CL--- Very good car--but I'm having a problem that the dealer couldn't fix. Sometimes my air conditioner stop cooling and blows warm air. Every time I have taken the car to a shop they check the whole a/c system and claim that every thing's fine. But I still have the same problem. I know someone out there know something about this problem. Thanks. Franco
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Originally Posted by Franco305
I am a new member of this excellent Acura community. I have a 1997 Acura 3.0 CL--- Very good car--but I'm having a problem that the dealer couldn't fix. Sometimes my air conditioner stop cooling and blows warm air. Every time I have taken the car to a shop they check the whole a/c system and claim that every thing's fine. But I still have the same problem. I know someone out there know something about this problem. Thanks. Franco
I don't have any experience to post, BUT if the dealer can't find the problem, your most likely going to have to replace it to get it fixed.
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They are most likely unable to replicate the issue within xx minutes. So to them they think it's a intermittent problem. It's probably something improperly signaling the AC compressor clutch to switch off.
Try running the Self-diagnosis Function. You can do this by turning the ignition switch to ON (II). After one minute, press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, if any of the fan bars, "A/C ON" text, or the arrow pointing to the feet of the stick figure illuminates, then you have a fault, open or short. You can exit this mode by turning the ignition switch OFF.
Try running the Self-diagnosis Function. You can do this by turning the ignition switch to ON (II). After one minute, press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, if any of the fan bars, "A/C ON" text, or the arrow pointing to the feet of the stick figure illuminates, then you have a fault, open or short. You can exit this mode by turning the ignition switch OFF.
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Originally Posted by Nakamichi
They are most likely unable to replicate the issue within xx minutes. So to them they think it's a intermittent problem. It's probably something improperly signaling the AC compressor clutch to switch off.
Try running the Self-diagnosis Function. You can do this by turning the ignition switch to ON (II). After one minute, press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, if any of the fan bars, "A/C ON" text, or the arrow pointing to the feet of the stick figure illuminates, then you have a fault, open or short. You can exit this mode by turning the ignition switch OFF.
Try running the Self-diagnosis Function. You can do this by turning the ignition switch to ON (II). After one minute, press both the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time. While the buttons are pressed, if any of the fan bars, "A/C ON" text, or the arrow pointing to the feet of the stick figure illuminates, then you have a fault, open or short. You can exit this mode by turning the ignition switch OFF.
That's a nifty trick, but wouldn't the dealer have done it?
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#8
If car cools fine most of the time, but intermittently fails to cool, I would suspect the ac compressor clutch plate gap is too large. What happens is the clutch plate probably had a large gap initially and w/ wear the gap is too large to reliably close the clutch when magnetic field is actuated to start compressor.
Diagnosis procedure is to rap the clutch plate (carefully!) w/ a hefty stick when compressor clutch is not engaging (no cooling). If clutch immediately engages and cooling is restored, the clutch gap is too large. Fix is simple, pull clutch plate and remove a tiny shim from beneath the clutch plate to reduce clutch gap. A single 10mm bolt retains the clutch plate. However (isn't that frequently the case!), it may be difficult to access the compressor w/o removing other engine acccessories. On some cars it is impossible to access the compressor w/ discharging the system.
good luck
Diagnosis procedure is to rap the clutch plate (carefully!) w/ a hefty stick when compressor clutch is not engaging (no cooling). If clutch immediately engages and cooling is restored, the clutch gap is too large. Fix is simple, pull clutch plate and remove a tiny shim from beneath the clutch plate to reduce clutch gap. A single 10mm bolt retains the clutch plate. However (isn't that frequently the case!), it may be difficult to access the compressor w/o removing other engine acccessories. On some cars it is impossible to access the compressor w/ discharging the system.
good luck
#9
Air conditioner problem
I tried the Nakamichi technique. I turned the ignition switch ON (II). Pressed both, 'AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time and observed the display. It only showed the temperature and the set temp number. I guess this indicate that I don't have a fault open or short. Next step? I'll try the TexasHonda technique. But I will have to take my CL to my neighborhood Pep Boys because it might be to difficult for me to get to the compressor. However, I'll impress them by asking them to check the A/C compressor clutch plate gap. I'll keep you posted. Thanks guys.
#10
Air Conditioner problem
Well, I visited my neighborhood Pep Boys. They had an air conditioner performance check special. I suggested they check the ac compressor clutch gap. At the completion of the performance test they said that the a/c was working perfect and the compressor clutch plate gap was fine. The next day I notice that my car was overheating only during rush hour traffic. A quick check showed that the cooling system fans were not working. I took the car to another shop and after I paid $97.85 they said that the problem was that the relay module was not communicating electrically with the cooling fans. Well, who I am to contradict that. I mentioned the a/c problem to the mechanic and he said that the problem could be that the condenser expansion valve is not working right. It probably is not expanding and contracting when it's supposed to. Any way the car and the a/c is working fine so far.
#11
Failure of the radiator cooling fans to run will cause ac performance at idle or low speeds to decline. I think the relay should fix your problem. Did you replace the relay (you didn't say)?
BTW, there is no such thing as a condensor expansion valve. There is an evaporator expansion valve. They can go bad, but usually there is no cooling at all when the fail, not intermittent.
Thanks for posting your results.
good luck
BTW, there is no such thing as a condensor expansion valve. There is an evaporator expansion valve. They can go bad, but usually there is no cooling at all when the fail, not intermittent.
Thanks for posting your results.
good luck
#12
No, I did not replace the relay. And yes, the a/c problem what worse at low speed and sometimes during cloudy days. I probably misunderstood the mechanic. He must have said the evaporator expansion valve. Today will be the big test in my way home during rush hour. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
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