dgoedken

First, love the site, helped me walk thru the EGR cleaning w/ manifold. Scared to do it, glad I did!!

I have a'98 CL, 162k miles, 3.0L V6 Auto. Car "ran fine" the other day, went to garage, and wouldn't start.

All lights come on, solenoids *click*, No CEL, dbl checked w/ tool, verified no CEL codes. I've had the ABS brake light on for 2-3yrs now, only thing I noticed over those 2-3yrs would be the ABS doesn't engage during loss-of-traction/slippage, but power brakes work/were easy to apply. Did get "the code" for the trany being an issue over memorial weekend after a 5hr drive. Cleared and hasn't come back. It was at the end of the thar long drive, it was "flaring" between 1-2 and 2-3rd gears. Since then, had 2-3hr drives, slight issue on return drive w/ flare-ups towards the end when no longer at highway speeds and *chunking* down to first when stopping, but none during short (10-15mile) commutes in the 6 weeks since

Anyways, "other than that", it is running fine, drove the day before, no issues, no chunking, no flaring, etc. When trying to start the brake is difficult to depress. Odd thing I noted, as at first I thought a low battery, I wanted to get it into neutral and push it back so it wouldn't be against the wall to replace, it was hit-or-miss getting it into neutral from Park. I did depress the brake, and had the ignition in the ACC position and also the next when trying to get into neutral. I had to leave for work so will try pressing harder on the brake to see if that's an issue as to why it won't allow me to move the gear selector to neutral....


I digress, not sure why it won't start. Wondering if it's an issue w/ it not seeing the brake pedal is pressed when I turn ignition? Odd I can't always change gears via selector. When it works, it's smooth, when it won't, I can depress the side-button, but won't move from Park.

Latest work I had done w/ the ignition switch recall about 3-4months back (via Acura dealership), but seems to been a good repair. Before then, EGR port about 2yrs back by myself. Tranny fluid, once at 80k, brakes were done about 2yrs back (rotors and pads and thorough greasing)


Thanks and apologies for being wordy...better to have too much info, than not enough (even though I may have missed something).

dgoedken

Since I can't edit...will try this when I get home tonight...

https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-problems-fixes-71/98-cl-starting-problem-835380/


I should also note, when i got into the car, the CD was ejected, I've had that CD in there for 7yrs and perhaps a power spike? Radio wouldn't even power on. No thunder/lightning storms since last driven.

pitbullLOVER

wont start hey,... hhhmmmmm.....

are your battery cables tight?
are the grounds good?
is the starter solenoid wires clean and tight?
is the starter solenoid good?

the A.B.S. is a problem on our cars, its the pump and the sensor that tells it its primed., i took out my A.B.S. fuse and dont care cause i H8 A.B.S.!!!

im lazy and barely press the brake to shift out of park and mine lets me, in my old '85 monte carlo the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH used to be an issue for me, it keeps your car from shifting if the ignitions isnt on and the brake aint pressed so.... i dont even know if our cars have neutral safety switches but id imagine they do.

dgoedken

Since everyone it waiting with bated breath...


It was the starter. $110 and tax and I'm back on track to my 200k goal (162k now)

I'll do some cleaning off all the various parts you mentioned above just to be safe for "next time". The tranny is going, so only a matter of time for that.

pitbullLOVER

good to hear you fixed her.

as for the feeble acura auto tranny's, they are like paper mache.
do above regular fluid changes and add a tranny cooler, its the best small thing you could do for your tranny.

dgoedken

Will adding a tranny cooler add life to my existing trans? It currently acts up after a longer (2-3hr) drive. I don't do those often, but in-town is still studders/chunks into the next gear.

Is the issue it's getting too hot a caus of the trans failures??

dgoedken

I should note, it doesn't chunk into the gear EVERY time, just once in a while, I have NOT noticed it being more frequent in the past couple years when it started.

Or are you saying whenever I get the new trans, I should get the cooler as well?

I'll do the 1/3 trans fluid change and perhaps 1/3 again next weekend.

pitbullLOVER

adding a tranny cooler will help even older trannys last longer.

(1) the fluid is mildly viscous, when the tranny heats up the fluid becomes way less viscous and the tranny doesnt shift up or down as smooth and firm as it should.
(2) the hotter the tranny gets the softer the little tiny gear teeth get and the potential for slippage or even worse mechanical failure is increased drastically.
(3) the hotter the fluid gets the quicker it brakes down leading to more fluid changes and then the above mentioned (1) and (2). =$$$$$$$$

getting 1 dosent mean your tranny is bullet proof but they are worth their weight in gold when the cl tranny change is in the $5000 range.

on top of a cooler ( i say it to a ridiculous level but..) change the fluid religiously with honda/acura fluid too. when the fluid brakes down so does the tranny.


NOW THAT BEING SAID!!!
ive brought this up befor in a old post (check my post history for more info) but (if you know this just disregard) the auto tranny's in any vehical suck compared to manual. the auto uses fluid and a computer to do what takes 2 feet and a heart beat to do so naturally the auto's are very VERY laggy,.. under responsive, ise owned a lot of autos and ive found the cl auto to be EXTREMELY touchy. when i first got my cl i thought the tranny was fuckered and asked the same question as you, then i called acura of canada (i recommend any car owner call the national center and shoot the shit , i promise you will learn something interesting). honda/acura had a hell of a time finding a suitable tranny for the J series motors. we got the same tranny as the acura el basically but we gots 200bhp. as opposed to 150bhp like these tranny's are rated for.

(where am i going with all this)

your tranny is behind what you physically do in your car, if you come up to a stop/yield sign, do no stop quick roll and try to go, as you belive and the guy with the manual tranny are in 1st gear ripping to 2nd the cl tranny is laggy and just shifted down from 2nd when you go to drive away, you slightly build up rpm's, your tranny basically does a mini neutral drop for you without your permission.

this is a small example but its true.

if you turn the tunes off, windows down and pay attention you will feel and hear the tranny shift and you will find its off a little, you come to a stop,.... then the tranny comes down to 1st gear.... if this makes sense.


n - e - way... im ramnbling and tired so ... let me know how it all goes with your ride.

fabrizzio71

@dgoedken-- Your symptoms are nearly identical to mine. My car (a 99 3.0 with 141000 miles) was flaring up between 1st and 2nd and then 2nd to 3rd after long drives of 5-6 hours. It wouldn't act up over shorter distances though. I assumed the worst, (that I would need a re-manufactured unit) but my mechanic said replacing the solenoids would most likely cure the issue. I had two of the solenoids replaced and it's shifting smoother between 1 and 2 and 2 to 3. I haven't been on any long trips since, so I can't verify that the repair fixed the issue of "flare ups" after long drives in the heat. I'm hoping it has...

As for the ABS issue, I also had my ABS light come on. At first, it wasn't throwing any codes, but the light kept coming back on. It turns out that both rear wheel speed sensors were bad. I had them replaced and it has fixed the ABS issue. All of this cost a pretty penny of course as those speed sensors are close to $200 bucks a piece for OEM replacements. I hope this at least helps relate some to the issues you've been having. Your guess is as good as mine as to why it won't start. Best of luck figuring it out.