I just bought a 1998 CL 2.3 - it's supposed to get at least above 20 MPG for a four-banger like that, right? Well, I'm getting 12 MPG !!! I changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and fuel filter... still getting about 15 MPG, and that's not even driving "wild". NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT... car drives and accelerates normally... revs fine, handles good at high speed ( 100 MPH ) I AM DESPERATE !!! ANY IDEAS? PLEASE HELP !!!

 

EGR Valve?

 

try the fuel injector cleaners.

 

Wouldn't EGR problem throw a CEL? or cause poor performance?

 

It doesn't always throw a code, and I would say bad fuel economy is a sign of poor performance.

 

Have you checked something other then the engine like the rest of the drivetrain parts, binding calipers brakes etc, clutch, the list goes on.

burning oil, maybe just leaking enough from possibly the clyinder heads (valve guides) to make the combustion process much less efficient.

 

OK, THANKS TO ALL. EGR valve malfunction as well as oil burning should show up if I test my emissions, right? Is there any other way to detect? I've read about a problem on Acuras that there is carbon built up on some passage way to the EGR valve... maybe that could be it?

 

Hey, I just noticed that I got something leaking out of my exhaust, not sure what fluid, but if I put the car in park and rev it high, it starts leaking this stuff from the exhaust. Also, when parked it doesn't rev more than 5000, although the redline is 6500 - IS THAT NORMAL? Also, when parked if I floor it and it revs to 5000 then immediately let off the gas pedal it revs down and then shuts off. It doesn't shut of it I rev it to lets say 3000 and then let off the gas pedal. Anyone have any ideas? Otherwise if I don't rev it idles very quiet and the needle is always at 500 rpms - no rough idle...

 

Bump... HELP

 

Such poor gas mileage indicates a possible leak. I assume you don't drive like a BOOH. BTW, EGR problems will not affect gas mileage. Following are possibilites and checks.

1) ruptured fuel pressure regulator (FPR) allowing fuel to leak through vacuum reference line directly into throttle body. Pull FPR vacuum reference line and sniff for gas smell. If you smell gas you need a new FPR.

2) leaking fuel injector oring allowing fuel to escape, Sniff test while engine is running. Very difficult to see a gas leak as gas evaporates very quickly.

3) cracked fuel tank allowing fuel to leak out; elevate car (jack stands), crawl under and look for a wet spot on the tank. You probably won't see a drip.

4) catalytic converter blockage (this will cause poor acceleration also), There is a w/ a vacuum gauge (see batauto.com information page). Otherwise professional help may be necessary to resolve this possibilty.

5) possibly a failing O2 sensor (relatively cheap). Difficult to diagnose w/o obd2 scanner or other instruments. If idle is rough w/ warm engine and you're getting black smoke at idle w/ hot engine this may be the problem.

Reving to 6500 is a good way to cause engine damage. If this is how you drive, your mileage is normal.

good luck

 

Hey, thanks a lot! I'll try those. And no, I usually drive around 2-3000 rpms. Just noticed if I rev up, liquid comes out of the exhaust - doesn't seem like it's gas or coolant or oil - looks and smells like water... is that weird or what? It always happens, nomatter the outside temperature... spits sizable amount of water... if I rev.

 

condensation?

 

Some water is normal w/ a cold engine, usually more noticeable in cold weather. It sure ain't cold in TX, as summer has arrived w/ a vengeance this week. Is exhaust showing any black smoke? This would indicate rich condition.

good luck

 

Checked the CAT converter and it was nice and clean, changed both O2 sensors as well. Still 15 mpg city/ 20 mpg highway. So that takes care of 4) and 5).
Also, whenever I open the gas tank to refill (way too often ((( ) I can clearly hear a vacuum sound like I do on other cars normally - so I think the tank has to be intact as if it had a crack it would not maintain the vacuum, right??? So maybe that takes care of 3)
Remaining 1) and 2)... God that car is such a pain in the *** !

THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE ADVICE !!!!

 

Mine is also a 98 2.3 CL. Same feeling, pain in the ***.
After getting CEL, MPG dropped from 22 to 14, the honda dealer cannot even identify the problem.
I don't want to sell the problem to the next owner...
What should I do, see another dealer?

 

Ha, at least you've been BLESSED with a CEL - go to autozone and have it checked for free - the CEL will have some code indicating your problem. I had no such luck to get a CEL - just bad mileage. period. noCEL. driving me nuts. 2.3 engine burning like a 6 liter V10... but nowhere near that fast

 

If they indeed checked the items I suggested and found nothing, I would change the O2 sensor. The o2 sensor can be marginal and still not set the CEL. You can find a replacement for <$100 or <$50, if you're willing to wire a universal sensor to your old harness.

good luck

 

If i was in your shoes i would try a seafoam You can put it in the booster line and in the gas tank, there's even a diy here somewhere. At 6 or 7 bucks a can it's worth a shot.

 

Hey, Texas, thanks... I already changed both O2 sensors and CAT; and tank is fine; also did spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and fuel filter... just still have to check
1) ruptured fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
2) leaking fuel injector oring
if anything else comes to mind... I'd much appreciate it if anyone drops a line. I'm also doing Redline Sl-1 treatment - heard it was the best. Already had injectors manually cleaned...
I did all those things, and almost no improvement in the mileage... but the car is now a beast - acceleration is waaaay better. Just sucks gas is so expensive... It's like a drive a SUV.

 

My daughter's 97 2.2CL, 5 spd manual gets over 30 mpg on highway and 25-27 around town. You should be getting over 20 mpg easliy.

Is this an automatic or manual trans?

Aggressive driving can hugely impact gas mileage. If you accelerate hard after stops and drive at high speed your mileage will be severely reduced. This is a fairly heavy car w/ a small engine, so aggressive driving has more impact.

good luck

 

Thanks, I'll keep you posted as I go through all the suggestions... for now my budget's done for a while... I rev it up to 3-4000 rpms around town, around 2500-3000 on the highway... so no, not too agressive... not enough to be getting 14mpg anyway... it's an auto but still... 14mpg... no smoke of any kind, no smells, perfect idle and accelerates like a beast when I want it to... just the bad mileage is killing me... i think there might be a gas-drinking gnome in the tank... only possible explanation

I'll let you know after i rule out the
1) ruptured fuel pressure regulator (FPR)
2) leaking fuel injector oring
if you have any more suggestions....

THANKS AGAIN,
M

 

Brake drag can cause reduced gas mileage. Check front and rear brake calipers for good caliper pin lubrication and free floating caliper. Wheel should be able to turn w/ modest effort at outside of tire (much more than finger push).

Disc brake pads drag, but should release when caliper pressure is removed. If the caliper pin is rusty and unlubricated, some of the pad pressure remains and causes wheel drag (until pad is worn). This is not good for gas mileage or pad wear life.

good luck

 

I'm just curious. How's your mileage now???