1997 3.0 Re-manufactured tranny--doesn't shift right
#1
1997 3.0 Re-manufactured tranny--doesn't shift right
My 1997 3.0 had about 175K miles, and the tranny went out last year.
So I finally decided to bite the bullet and I had it re-manufactured. (Had to send it to Arizona, I'm not saying which company yet). Got it back and installed it, along with a re-manned torque converter. (If I can get this to end with a happy ending, I'll submit a DIY) I also put on a new cooler, and eliminated the old one per the suggestion of the re-builder.
Now the re-manufacturing didn't include new solenoids or sensors. So I replaced all the solenoids except the linear solenoid (will order it this week) and I'm still using the original pressure sensors.
Filled it with genuine Honda fluid.
Here's how it behaves: I took it slowly around my block, seemed fine until half way, when accelerating from a stop sign, it wouldn't go into 2nd, instead it revved and then eventually found second. Then it would pop out and back into 2nd if I gave it a little gas. The same happened while shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Then it just flat out popped out of gear and coasted to a stop while the engine revved. Wouldn't go into any gear at this point.
So I shut it off, restarted it and slowly got it back home with it trying to slip out of gear.
While it's parked, with the brake on, it at first seems to shift into any gear nicely. A couple times when going from neutral to reverse, there was a hesitation, and a brief GRIND noise before it found reverse. That AINT right.
Obviously, I'm going to replace the linear solenoid since it's original. I did take it off and "test" it--the solenoids fire and move smoothly, but I don't know how the internal seals and stuff are.
I get NO engine or tranny codes. I even unplugged a random solenoid just so I could see a light come on. And it did.
I checked my fluid level--it's right at the lower limit on the dipstick. I only bought 6 quarts, it takes 6.5 or 7 at overhaul. So I'll get more. --This couldn't be the cause could it?
Any other suggestions I should try? Without any error codes, I don't really know how to troubleshoot a tranny.
Does it need to "break in" I wander? Like should I let it idle for 5 hours or something? I don't know.
For now I'm ASSUMING it was re-built properly...
So I finally decided to bite the bullet and I had it re-manufactured. (Had to send it to Arizona, I'm not saying which company yet). Got it back and installed it, along with a re-manned torque converter. (If I can get this to end with a happy ending, I'll submit a DIY) I also put on a new cooler, and eliminated the old one per the suggestion of the re-builder.
Now the re-manufacturing didn't include new solenoids or sensors. So I replaced all the solenoids except the linear solenoid (will order it this week) and I'm still using the original pressure sensors.
Filled it with genuine Honda fluid.
Here's how it behaves: I took it slowly around my block, seemed fine until half way, when accelerating from a stop sign, it wouldn't go into 2nd, instead it revved and then eventually found second. Then it would pop out and back into 2nd if I gave it a little gas. The same happened while shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Then it just flat out popped out of gear and coasted to a stop while the engine revved. Wouldn't go into any gear at this point.
So I shut it off, restarted it and slowly got it back home with it trying to slip out of gear.
While it's parked, with the brake on, it at first seems to shift into any gear nicely. A couple times when going from neutral to reverse, there was a hesitation, and a brief GRIND noise before it found reverse. That AINT right.
Obviously, I'm going to replace the linear solenoid since it's original. I did take it off and "test" it--the solenoids fire and move smoothly, but I don't know how the internal seals and stuff are.
I get NO engine or tranny codes. I even unplugged a random solenoid just so I could see a light come on. And it did.
I checked my fluid level--it's right at the lower limit on the dipstick. I only bought 6 quarts, it takes 6.5 or 7 at overhaul. So I'll get more. --This couldn't be the cause could it?
Any other suggestions I should try? Without any error codes, I don't really know how to troubleshoot a tranny.
Does it need to "break in" I wander? Like should I let it idle for 5 hours or something? I don't know.
For now I'm ASSUMING it was re-built properly...
#2
Update--
I had to send the tranny back. Turns out the filter was "completely plugged with friction material". They cut open the torque converter and it had "minimal wear"--not enough to account for plugged filter. The clutches looked ok, too.
By logical deduction, this means the filter was never changed. But they swear it was changed, they would never miss that.
So who knows.
I got it back and now it works good.
At least I didn't have to pay any extra shipping charges.
I had to send the tranny back. Turns out the filter was "completely plugged with friction material". They cut open the torque converter and it had "minimal wear"--not enough to account for plugged filter. The clutches looked ok, too.
By logical deduction, this means the filter was never changed. But they swear it was changed, they would never miss that.
So who knows.
I got it back and now it works good.
At least I didn't have to pay any extra shipping charges.
#3
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iTrader: (6)
um, yeah. Sounds like they never replaced the inner filter. Glad to hear it works now.
#5
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (1)
Glad you got it resolved because I didn't know what to say about your situation. I would have probably been very upset because its allot of work that wouldn't have had to be done if they had done it right in the first place but I guess everyone makes mistakes and it sounds like they did even though they don't want to admit it
#7
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#9
#10
Glad you got it resolved because I didn't know what to say about your situation. I would have probably been very upset because its allot of work that wouldn't have had to be done if they had done it right in the first place but I guess everyone makes mistakes and it sounds like they did even though they don't want to admit it
Originally the deal was they send me one already rebuilt, I install it and send them my old one for the core. Pretty straightforward.
The one they sent was for a Honda Odyssey. The tranny number was one off. Should've been M7ZA, they sent a M7TA. The "T" had a splotch of paint on it, but you could tell it was a "T"
It looked almost identical, thank god I didn't try to install it.
Whatever. It's water under the bridge now.
#11
Senior Moderator
Actually those odyssey transmissions and the 05-07+ TL transmissions are what the 2nd gen Auto CL-S's use when replacing their trannies, the valvebodies are larger and provide better lubrication for the clutches, which is the main downfall of the tranny design shared in the 6 cylinder autos. I'd have tried to bolt that thing on to see if it would fit the J30 before I sent it back, its more sturdy than a rebuilt CL tranny.
#13
Actually those odyssey transmissions and the 05-07+ TL transmissions are what the 2nd gen Auto CL-S's use when replacing their trannies, the valvebodies are larger and provide better lubrication for the clutches, which is the main downfall of the tranny design shared in the 6 cylinder autos. I'd have tried to bolt that thing on to see if it would fit the J30 before I sent it back, its more sturdy than a rebuilt CL tranny.
Here's the pics I have of the Odyssey and my Acura trannies:
http://img27.imageshack.us/i/img0993zv.jpg/
http://img202.imageshack.us/i/img0992xdz.jpg/
The only difference I could see was on this end.
I don't know what the thing sticking out at the bottom is for.
Maybe you could hook the cruise control cable to it....you know, for more cruisin'
I wander if you could swap out the ends and make it work. Or maybe it'll work as it is with nothing hooked to it.
#16
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Regional Coordinator
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iTrader: (6)
05-07 may be too high, you may have to go down a generation
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