on1wheel01

Well I've been looking I didn't know if anyone has posted a how to just for our cars (my 3.0cl 97). I really need to do this as my new amp is on it's way. Help.....sorry if it's here and I couldn't find it maybe my searching skills need mo powa

mitch14

the basics of what to replace with new power wire, yes
a full DIY containing pics, not that i know of
i know matt was working on one, but all his hard work was accidentally erased before he could post a full DIY, his was gonna be for a 2.x anyways tho.
it is recommended that you do the big 3, but it's not something that needs to be done as soon as you put a system in.
i know 97blackackcl was working on the big 3 upgrade on his car last week or this week tho, his is a 3.0. But he is doing a lot right now, so he might not have time to list it all out to you.

btw the 3 are(if you do not know): alt+ to bat+, bat grounds, alt ground

i still haven't done it on my car yet, been running a little over 1000W RMS on a yellow top and a 2 farad cap, with only my revs dropping a little when i push the subs hard

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I am in the middle of doing a full diy on my 97 3.0, I actually have half the pics already on my comp but they're not resized or uploaded yet, mattastick posted a bit of a guide here

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=272

Once I complete my diy I'll post a link in this thread, I just (literally) got off the phone with a shop, the wire I am using has been discontinued and I had to special order some more because I used more length than I expected trying to run the fuse box wire stealthly and tuck it. He said I should have my wire by Monday so hopefully I can finish this up Monday or sometime next week, although I still have to do my grounds too

on1wheel01

Ok thanx guys yea mattastick is the man he's been a big help with my car as has everyone here. It just threw me off cuz it looks like the alt wire to batt goes to the fuse pannel

on1wheel01

ok i see his post now thanx, sheds some light im gonna be putting out 2400 rms at 1 ohm, so lookin into having my alt beefed up and maybe a batt

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

It does, there are 2 wires that go to the fuse box, one from the alternator, and one from the battery, the fuse box acts as a fuse in the middle

on1wheel01

okey thanx, guess this will dbe done in a few days, just gonna go with 4 gauge.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

That's what I'm doin

mattastick

I had a complete DIY in the works, even got ~60-70% done, then my computer decided it needed to update something... So I lost the entire thing. I haven't felt like re-doing it, since I've been pretty busy working on my own build. Now a buddy wants me to design and build a box for his wrangler... This should be fun...

btw, 4 gauge is for wimps...



jk guys...

mitch14

on that matt, just go for the 1/0 guage already.
most ppl told me to run either 2 or 4 for my system from the batt, but really the 1/0 isn't that hard to run at all it fits in mostly everywhere. Might aswell go all out the first time, so you know you won't have to redo it, just my tho

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Also there's this diy out there, I wouldn't put a fuse on my alt but still a deccent write up

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-big-3-a-692969/#post10112212

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

rest of my wire is on the UPS truck, so hopefully I'll get the alternator to fuse box wire done tonight

Myxomatosis

So some stupid questions, what exactly is the point of all this. To maximize your amperage? avoid a meltdown? I'm only wondering if it's worth me doing. With my electrical system and stereo I mostly get concerned about the longevity of my alternator. I'm thinking, this reduces resistance, drops the amount of power lost through heat and thus maximizes the amount of power the amp can use. Also, reducing the resistance would reduce the demand on the alt, since the amp is going to get the power it wants even if it's not efficient. I guess I just answered my own damned question. Is this correct or am I missing some things.

I did fork out the money for a yellow top. I'm only running a 300w rms amp and the stock HU.

mattastick

you're dead on with the reasons for the Big 3. and it's definitely worth it... Even on a lower powered system like yours, I'd still do at least 4g wire, and if you ever go bigger with the system, I'd jump up to 2g or even 1/0g wire... It's always better to have too much wire than not enough...

Myxomatosis

alright something to do this spring thanks

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

couldn't get the bolt off the alternator, anyone have any tricks for getting in there without removing the fan assembly?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Looks like I'll be removing the fan assembly to get to the alternator wire

mattastick

How hard is it? All it took me was a rachet, and whatever size (i think 10 or 12mm) socket... and that was it...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

the 3.0 alt is right up against the header heatshield, i can't even get the wratchet on the bolt all the way coming from the top, if I take the fan out, I'm hoping to have more room to go from the side, nothing's ever easy on this car

mattastick

good call. I forgot you had the 3.0... sucks... that motor is completely jammed in there... I love the 2.3 (except for complete lack of power) because everything is right there in the front of the engine bay. I had my starter go out, a couple hours later, it's done. Same thing with the Big 3. Couple hours worth of work (mostly soldering/figuring out where to run wires) and it's done...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

mine has taken days, but I'm multitasking and doing multiple projects at once, had to cut and grind a metal bracket last night

mattastick

but you don't drive your car... Mine's a dd... If i take days on a project, i'm dead meat since that means someone doesn't have a car to drive...

let me guess: metal bracket = ?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

not really ninja or secretive, just in my way and had to go to make room for stuff

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

on1wheel01

Ok guys well im gonna ask as i've searched I've found osme high out put alternators on ebay a 160 amp for 120, a 180 amp for 155, and a 200+ for 220. Im thinking the 160 may not be enough. Would the 180 be good, or should I go for 200+ (and would I be able to tell a diff)i have called all the rebuild places around here and they wont rewind mine. Sucks for me. Watcha think

on1wheel01

wow our factory 3.0 is a 100 amp? lol i'd say a 180 should work just fine but ill wait on someone to chime in, i figure this should make it so i can turn my gain up (also just ordered a 200 amp breaker)

mattastick

dude, those alts are probably just re-wound in a standard case... This means you're not going to get any more than stock at idle... So the only time you're actually going to see your money put to good use is on the highway... Get on CACO and contact Mechman... He'll hook you up, and his units are supposed to be tops in the business...

on1wheel01

how much do they run though? not tryin to break the bank lol. wow just did a small search he charges over 400. I kno get what you pay for. I have though about having mine redone to get more powa out of it. May not be a super high output but will def be much stronger.

mattastick

You're cash dude... Personally, I'd do it right the first time... It may cost a little more up front, but you won't fry your amp because you don't have enough power for it... Like I said, this is just what I'd do, but do whatever you want...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I was looking at the 130 amp but then realized my alt was 100 amp, so probably gonna grab the 160 at some point, I also couldn't find a shop that wanted to rebuild mine for me, truthfully I was going to get one since my rad fan is off right now, but decided to wait because I don't have a dying need for one at the moment, but you can get a 160 for around $100 on ebizzle

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Big 3 is coming along nicely, used stinger hexagonal 4 guage wire for something unique

Used the stock alternator cap


End for the fuse box


This end finished for the positive cables


Used most of the stock wire mount points


Alternator wire stock mount point, and wire installed

mattastick

Very nice Chris, as always... Can't wait to see the final product. Unlike mine, I'm sure yours will look factory...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

That's the goal

on1wheel01

I just started the big 3 today as well, went with 4 gauge as nobody around here has 0. So far I have ran a new alt to fuse and alt ground. Had to work so maybe some more will get done tomorrow.

jarvas36

I did the big three myself but on my 98 4runner, I used 4 awg because I added on top of the factory wiring instead of completely replacing it. I aslo put a fuse in line between the alt + to the battery+, just in case. Keep in mind that the 4runner v6 ony has a 75 amp alternator. Good luck to those doing this project.

Stumax

Can you repost the Pics, Thanks

mattastick

There were no pics in that post. Here are some of when I did the big 3:

Alt + to battery:

Alt + :

Chassis Ground:

Finished Grounds:

Hope that helps. I used 1/0 wire, since there's no such thing as overkill when it comes to your electrical.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I'll dig up my pics and rehost, there were a ton of pics, but I lost them when my web server crashed. I have them on a flash drive

on1wheel01

Cute lil hands Matt lolz

mattastick

Thanks Brian. You wanna see some knee too? Pretty sure there's a pic in the "Projects" thread... But it was like 25-30 degrees in the garage when I was doing the Big 3... That sucked. Wire was hard as hell to get to bend, and my hands were completely numb. Using a soldering iron to warm your hands is not very efficient, btw