Warm up question (Sorry for the 3rd topic)
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Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2002
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Warm up question (Sorry for the 3rd topic)
I figured I would start up my own topic because I didn't want to hijack the other persons threads.
Here is what I do...
Everytime I start my car the needle stays at 1,500rpm for 1-2minutes then goes to 1,250rpm for another 2 minutes and then around 1,000ish after another 1 minute. So I usually let my car sit about 5-7 minutes every time before I drive...I always thought this was the BEST thing to do?
In the other thread people have said "no more then 2 minutes" how does this negatively affect the car? 
Also the reason I never just put the car in R (reverse) right away is because its idling at 1,500rpm isnt that like doing a neutral drop on the tranny? Because when I drop the car in reverse (the few times I have in a rush) the whole car JOLTS. I always thought this was the worst thing to do.
BTW, my car always does the 1500, 1250, 1000, 750, idle thing everytime I start it after its been sitting more then 2 hrs+, also I live in south florida so it aint COLD out.
If anyone can help me out...Im totally confused now I always thought it was good to let it sit for 5-7 minutes in the AM and whenever i started it. Am I really hurting the car that much? Thanks In advance guys.
Here is what I do...
Everytime I start my car the needle stays at 1,500rpm for 1-2minutes then goes to 1,250rpm for another 2 minutes and then around 1,000ish after another 1 minute. So I usually let my car sit about 5-7 minutes every time before I drive...I always thought this was the BEST thing to do?
In the other thread people have said "no more then 2 minutes" how does this negatively affect the car? Also the reason I never just put the car in R (reverse) right away is because its idling at 1,500rpm isnt that like doing a neutral drop on the tranny? Because when I drop the car in reverse (the few times I have in a rush) the whole car JOLTS. I always thought this was the worst thing to do.
BTW, my car always does the 1500, 1250, 1000, 750, idle thing everytime I start it after its been sitting more then 2 hrs+, also I live in south florida so it aint COLD out.
If anyone can help me out...Im totally confused now I always thought it was good to let it sit for 5-7 minutes in the AM and whenever i started it. Am I really hurting the car that much? Thanks In advance guys.
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Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2002
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Well its not "COLD" but I consider a little cool i mean its like 67ish in the morning...How long have you warmed it up for?
I've been doing it for 2 years also, and i never had a problem im jus wondering people have said its BAD?
I've been doing it for 2 years also, and i never had a problem im jus wondering people have said its BAD?
'07 November = STI
Joined: Jul 2003
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Originally Posted by r0dxx
Well its not "COLD" but I consider a little cool i mean its like 67ish in the morning...How long have you warmed it up for?
I've been doing it for 2 years also, and i never had a problem im jus wondering people have said its BAD?
I've been doing it for 2 years also, and i never had a problem im jus wondering people have said its BAD?
well here in washington.. in the mornings its like 30 degrees.. lol..
i warm it up for about 5 min or till the needle is touching the blue line atleast
and I live rochester,n.y. right now it's like 15 degress in the morning
Adventurist.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,661
Likes: 58
From: Orange County, CA
I posted on the topic a few months ago:
YMMV
Originally Posted by NiteQwill
I beg to differ. All modern cars do not require you to warm up your car, that doesn't mean floor it out of the garage. It is necessary to move your car ASAP when starting it b/c you need to get the oil to the parts that run-dry when your car sits idle overnight, etc.
Btw, it's in the manual.
-----------------
proper for moderate winter temps (like near freezing) is about 30-45 seconds of idle, then gently drive off, keeping the LOAD and RPM's down (ie dont lug it, dont rev the piss out of it). don't drive hard unless you want your oil seals to blow out from high oil pressure during the cold period.
for summer temps, you drive off immediately.
It is VERY bad to idle your car for 5 minutes. Unless absolutely necessary for safety (ie can't get windows de-iced,wont idle).
The least amount of time your car spends under 180F CTS (195F is ideal running temps) the less engine wear occurrs.
The motor does not have a load at idle, thus spends alot more time cold.
The extra gas (overfueling enrichment) ends up fouling the oil, unburnt gases carbon foul, gas in oil,booya etc
It's very simple, its been in just bout every car owners manual i've read.
Idling cold starts = 90% of the cold emissions in the world i'd guess.
like i said above, read the car manual.
Btw, it's in the manual.
-----------------
proper for moderate winter temps (like near freezing) is about 30-45 seconds of idle, then gently drive off, keeping the LOAD and RPM's down (ie dont lug it, dont rev the piss out of it). don't drive hard unless you want your oil seals to blow out from high oil pressure during the cold period.
for summer temps, you drive off immediately.
It is VERY bad to idle your car for 5 minutes. Unless absolutely necessary for safety (ie can't get windows de-iced,wont idle).
The least amount of time your car spends under 180F CTS (195F is ideal running temps) the less engine wear occurrs.
The motor does not have a load at idle, thus spends alot more time cold.
The extra gas (overfueling enrichment) ends up fouling the oil, unburnt gases carbon foul, gas in oil,booya etc
It's very simple, its been in just bout every car owners manual i've read.
Idling cold starts = 90% of the cold emissions in the world i'd guess.
like i said above, read the car manual.
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Suzuka Master
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Like i said my car idles at 1,500rpm and then 1250rpm and then eventually 1,000rpm
And your telling me just to reverse out of the park after 45seconds...And im still at 1500 that doesnt hurt engine mounts or the tranny? The whole car jolts when i do that
And your telling me just to reverse out of the park after 45seconds...And im still at 1500 that doesnt hurt engine mounts or the tranny? The whole car jolts when i do that
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,193
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From: Dallas
nah that aint gonna do anything....u just dont wanna drive ur car hard when its not warmed up. warming up ur car is a good thing before u drive...it warm up the oil and lube up all the moving and will save u walls of u block. I, myself always start up the car and drive off every morning, never giving the CL a chance to warm up at all...and haven't have any problem. I just dont push it until my temp is idle....cuz its pointless to punch it when there wont be any VTEC
Adventurist.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,661
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by ib_jimmy
warming up ur car is a good thing before u drive...it warm up the oil and lube up all the moving and will save u walls of u block.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,447
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From: Somewhere in Denver, CO
right you want to warm up the engine to normal operating temps ASAP! In normal weather (50-80F) I start the car adn get going right away to warm it up faster. DOn't go redlining it or anything, but you kinda want eh revs to be a bit higher so you warm it up faster.
Don't go above 4000 RPMS till it's at normal operating temps, adn don't let it idle for more thana minute. the longer you leave it there idleing the more the engine is getting worn out from working while cold.
Regardless of how you have been doing it in the past it's time to change from that habit. there is nothing you can do now so you might as well get on the right path from here forward.
IF you read your manual you would know that by now. I read the entire owners manual the first day I got my car and I learned many things NOT to do that will save the life of my car.
Personally I think one should ALWAYS read the manual for something they just bought, whether they think they know what they are doing or not.
Don't go above 4000 RPMS till it's at normal operating temps, adn don't let it idle for more thana minute. the longer you leave it there idleing the more the engine is getting worn out from working while cold.
Regardless of how you have been doing it in the past it's time to change from that habit. there is nothing you can do now so you might as well get on the right path from here forward.
IF you read your manual you would know that by now. I read the entire owners manual the first day I got my car and I learned many things NOT to do that will save the life of my car.
Personally I think one should ALWAYS read the manual for something they just bought, whether they think they know what they are doing or not.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,447
Likes: 1
From: Somewhere in Denver, CO
you CAN'T "go into" VTEC when your engine isn't warmed up.
The ecu prevents the lobes from switching if it's not at "acceptable" operating temps.
you can still rev high, but it stays on the small lobes, but it's still bad for your engine if you redline it while cold.
The ecu prevents the lobes from switching if it's not at "acceptable" operating temps.
you can still rev high, but it stays on the small lobes, but it's still bad for your engine if you redline it while cold.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Guelph, Ontario
r0dxx, I know what you're talking about the 1500 - 1250 - 1000RPM and all, usually I wait until it goes down to about 1250RPM then I shift into reverse, this takes less than a minute for me and I live in Canada. I don't believe it would hurt if you drop it to reverse before waiting 5 mintues because from what others have said and what the manual says. My opinions.
Flap.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,170
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From: St. Louis, Mo USA
Originally Posted by ghost_masterCL
you CAN'T "go into" VTEC when your engine isn't warmed up.
The ecu prevents the lobes from switching if it's not at "acceptable" operating temps.
you can still rev high, but it stays on the small lobes, but it's still bad for your engine if you redline it while cold.
The ecu prevents the lobes from switching if it's not at "acceptable" operating temps.
you can still rev high, but it stays on the small lobes, but it's still bad for your engine if you redline it while cold.
i though that SOHC honda engines didnt have the temp dependant VTEC, only the DOHC,
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,447
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From: Somewhere in Denver, CO
I dunno about the others, but I know that my J30 doesn't switch over until teh oil temp gauge has at least moved a little above the bottom line.
with my CAI I can hear whether eit engages or not and it for SURE doesn't when I just start it up.
with my CAI I can hear whether eit engages or not and it for SURE doesn't when I just start it up.
'07 November = STI
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Originally Posted by ghost_masterCL
Don't go above 4000 RPMS till it's at normal operating temps, adn don't let it idle for more thana minute. the longer you leave it there idleing the more the engine is getting worn out from working while cold.
something doesnt make sense to me.. i dunno.. maybe its just me..
Adventurist.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,661
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by Hobo
i though that SOHC honda engines didnt have the temp dependant VTEC, only the DOHC,
With the low pressure that is normal during a cold engine startup, VTEC is impossible.
Adventurist.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,661
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by legendaryCL98
so.. if i leave the car in idle around 1200 RPM's cold.. its worst then 2-3000 RPM's cold?
something doesnt make sense to me.. i dunno.. maybe its just me..
something doesnt make sense to me.. i dunno.. maybe its just me..
Adventurist.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,661
Likes: 58
From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by r0dxx
umm...
When Im at 1250rpm's and I drop into reverse should I hold the brake down hard? (otherwise it jolts really bad)
And what if i rev it up in the morning couple 4k rpm revs?
When Im at 1250rpm's and I drop into reverse should I hold the brake down hard? (otherwise it jolts really bad)
And what if i rev it up in the morning couple 4k rpm revs?
Why rev your engine? Reving your engine is like rubbing sandpaper on back of your hands without protection (oil).
Thread Starter
Suzuka Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,203
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Originally Posted by ghost_masterCL
right you want to warm up the engine to normal operating temps ASAP! In normal weather (50-80F) I start the car adn get going right away to warm it up faster. DOn't go redlining it or anything, but you kinda want eh revs to be a bit higher so you warm it up faster.
Don't go above 4000 RPMS till it's at normal operating temps, adn don't let it idle for more thana minute. the longer you leave it there idleing the more the engine is getting worn out from working while cold.
Regardless of how you have been doing it in the past it's time to change from that habit. there is nothing you can do now so you might as well get on the right path from here forward.
IF you read your manual you would know that by now. I read the entire owners manual the first day I got my car and I learned many things NOT to do that will save the life of my car.
Personally I think one should ALWAYS read the manual for something they just bought, whether they think they know what they are doing or not.
Don't go above 4000 RPMS till it's at normal operating temps, adn don't let it idle for more thana minute. the longer you leave it there idleing the more the engine is getting worn out from working while cold.
Regardless of how you have been doing it in the past it's time to change from that habit. there is nothing you can do now so you might as well get on the right path from here forward.
IF you read your manual you would know that by now. I read the entire owners manual the first day I got my car and I learned many things NOT to do that will save the life of my car.
Personally I think one should ALWAYS read the manual for something they just bought, whether they think they know what they are doing or not.
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