Upgrade Suspesion, Help me out!
#1
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
Upgrade Suspesion, Help me out!
Thanks for looking! Ok my deal:
I want to buy some GOOD coilovers for my 99 3.0. I gathered from you guys skunks's suck and eibach ground control are good. I also want to do KYB's AGX's or koni yellows. What do you guys think. The main reason for coilovers is so that i can get the exact drop i want and for the winter, SNOW season, i can raise them up for better clearance. Do i have t buy a camber kit?
Another thing, what year accord do you have to order to make all the above fit on my car.
Thanks
will
I want to buy some GOOD coilovers for my 99 3.0. I gathered from you guys skunks's suck and eibach ground control are good. I also want to do KYB's AGX's or koni yellows. What do you guys think. The main reason for coilovers is so that i can get the exact drop i want and for the winter, SNOW season, i can raise them up for better clearance. Do i have t buy a camber kit?
Another thing, what year accord do you have to order to make all the above fit on my car.
Thanks
will
#2
ENGAGE MY VTEC BABY!!!!!!
i found out it is better to get just straight shock the agx are good dont get me wrong but fucking around with they decreases their life or so i was told buy a distributor. i was told to get tokico blue and they should work just as fine but then again i am thinking of just putting adjustables in the front to stiffen te suspension when i get my 100 shot it would prevent the jumping of the front end and loosing traction. i plan to run some reg in the back and adjustables in the front since we are a front wheel drive car.
#3
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
is it true that if you upgrade your springs/coilovers, you only need to but new shocks in the front? I have heard that a few places. Save me some cash, u know!
#4
fellow MASShole
tokico blues are good koni yellows are the best ur gunna get ... agxs are good and adjustbal but ide go with the first 2 there are alot of heads runnin the kybs tho... ground controls the best ur gunna get next to the real thing
if ur gunna do it do it right get new shocks/struts all the way around .. and the same with the coilovers
if ur gunna do it do it right get new shocks/struts all the way around .. and the same with the coilovers
#5
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
OK,so with the eibach ground controls, what year accord would i have to buy to put them on a 99 3.0? Thats my main question, i want some SUSPENSION!
#6
Cause stock sux.
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Tokicos run hard. KYA AGX are some of the best I've ridden in comfort wise. If you want a stiffer pure race setup, I'd do Koni Yellows. I'd also skip getting coilovers and just get lowering springs instead. Unless you get Tein
Tein beats all other brands hands down, but cost a pretty penny. They also have that new electronic control which lets you adjust the ride height from inside the car. Very very cool.
Tein beats all other brands hands down, but cost a pretty penny. They also have that new electronic control which lets you adjust the ride height from inside the car. Very very cool.
#7
Golf Addict!!!
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I have Koni Yellows and Eibach Sportlines. No pics yet, but I'll get them posted soon. Great setup and it handles so sweet, but my only complaint is that my tires rub when cornering just slightly hard. I still have the OEM rims and OEM size Yoko's. Maybe I needed to get the shocks/struts seated higher? Is this something that I should look into?
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#8
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
ok so go with springs and KYB then? If i am doing srings, im going h&r allthe way. 1.5 all the way around. Just what i want. Let me know wha u guys think
#10
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
I want a good drop, tight springs and shocks to reduce some of the body roll. I do NOT want the bounce you see on civic's rolling down the street. So the best way to go would def be between a 1 and 2 inch drop with nice shocks. For what i gather, the KYB's are a nice balance between stiff and soft. Let me know guys!
#12
Atl/Mia reppin'
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yeah, H&R sports are 1.7 Front/1.5 rear.... I just got my alignment done, and my camber is within specs! I'm pretty excited. Just took a ride at night on 4 Front/8 rear with my Kybs...lots of fun, but rough as hell in downtown Atlanta. I'll go back to my 3/5 setup tomorrow. Oh and no rubbing with oem wheels/tires.
#13
Cause stock sux.
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Originally posted by ATLcl98
yeah, H&R sports are 1.7 Front/1.5 rear.... I just got my alignment done, and my camber is within specs! I'm pretty excited. Just took a ride at night on 4 Front/8 rear with my Kybs...lots of fun, but rough as hell in downtown Atlanta. I'll go back to my 3/5 setup tomorrow. Oh and no rubbing with oem wheels/tires.
yeah, H&R sports are 1.7 Front/1.5 rear.... I just got my alignment done, and my camber is within specs! I'm pretty excited. Just took a ride at night on 4 Front/8 rear with my Kybs...lots of fun, but rough as hell in downtown Atlanta. I'll go back to my 3/5 setup tomorrow. Oh and no rubbing with oem wheels/tires.
#14
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
Originally posted by ATLcl98
yeah, H&R sports are 1.7 Front/1.5 rear.... I just got my alignment done, and my camber is within specs! I'm pretty excited. Just took a ride at night on 4 Front/8 rear with my Kybs...lots of fun, but rough as hell in downtown Atlanta. I'll go back to my 3/5 setup tomorrow. Oh and no rubbing with oem wheels/tires.
yeah, H&R sports are 1.7 Front/1.5 rear.... I just got my alignment done, and my camber is within specs! I'm pretty excited. Just took a ride at night on 4 Front/8 rear with my Kybs...lots of fun, but rough as hell in downtown Atlanta. I'll go back to my 3/5 setup tomorrow. Oh and no rubbing with oem wheels/tires.
#15
Still trolling
Ding, if you do springs and shocks, your gonna bounce a little, but not bad. There is a trade off. IF you want a stiff, tight suspension that gives you real good cornering, you have to sacrifice ride, which means your going to rider harder. The stiffer the ride, the more the bounce. Stiff suspensions, on low profile tires are designed for flat roads, not your everyday city and country roads. Also, the stiffer the ride, the more jolting bounces, and the risk of loosing traction (suspension is tight and keeps the wheels from traveling to stay with the ground)
I went with Intrax progressive springs, and will be putting on the AGX's when the factory ones get worn out. I choose this set up becase the front generally needs a .1-.2 more drop then the rear to get the fender gap even. The prokits, from what I have heard and seen on this board, leaves the front looking a tad higher. My 1.5r/1.75f looks perfect. Plus, with the springs and factory shocks, I get more travel up and down on the highway, which is good for me, since I don't want to sacrifice safety. I would rather have a lofty ride @ 70+ MPG then a stiffer one that can cause loss of traction.
That's just my opinion though.
I went with Intrax progressive springs, and will be putting on the AGX's when the factory ones get worn out. I choose this set up becase the front generally needs a .1-.2 more drop then the rear to get the fender gap even. The prokits, from what I have heard and seen on this board, leaves the front looking a tad higher. My 1.5r/1.75f looks perfect. Plus, with the springs and factory shocks, I get more travel up and down on the highway, which is good for me, since I don't want to sacrifice safety. I would rather have a lofty ride @ 70+ MPG then a stiffer one that can cause loss of traction.
That's just my opinion though.
#16
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
Originally posted by chrisbpickering
Ding, if you do springs and shocks, your gonna bounce a little, but not bad. There is a trade off. IF you want a stiff, tight suspension that gives you real good cornering, you have to sacrifice ride, which means your going to rider harder. The stiffer the ride, the more the bounce. Stiff suspensions, on low profile tires are designed for flat roads, not your everyday city and country roads. Also, the stiffer the ride, the more jolting bounces, and the risk of loosing traction (suspension is tight and keeps the wheels from traveling to stay with the ground)
I went with Intrax progressive springs, and will be putting on the AGX's when the factory ones get worn out. I choose this set up becase the front generally needs a .1-.2 more drop then the rear to get the fender gap even. The prokits, from what I have heard and seen on this board, leaves the front looking a tad higher. My 1.5r/1.75f looks perfect. Plus, with the springs and factory shocks, I get more travel up and down on the highway, which is good for me, since I don't want to sacrifice safety. I would rather have a lofty ride @ 70+ MPG then a stiffer one that can cause loss of traction.
That's just my opinion though.
Ding, if you do springs and shocks, your gonna bounce a little, but not bad. There is a trade off. IF you want a stiff, tight suspension that gives you real good cornering, you have to sacrifice ride, which means your going to rider harder. The stiffer the ride, the more the bounce. Stiff suspensions, on low profile tires are designed for flat roads, not your everyday city and country roads. Also, the stiffer the ride, the more jolting bounces, and the risk of loosing traction (suspension is tight and keeps the wheels from traveling to stay with the ground)
I went with Intrax progressive springs, and will be putting on the AGX's when the factory ones get worn out. I choose this set up becase the front generally needs a .1-.2 more drop then the rear to get the fender gap even. The prokits, from what I have heard and seen on this board, leaves the front looking a tad higher. My 1.5r/1.75f looks perfect. Plus, with the springs and factory shocks, I get more travel up and down on the highway, which is good for me, since I don't want to sacrifice safety. I would rather have a lofty ride @ 70+ MPG then a stiffer one that can cause loss of traction.
That's just my opinion though.
#17
Still trolling
Originally posted by ding069
Thanks for your input. From what i heard, to get the ride you want, well the ride that I want i need to do shocks too. I want the suspension stiffer for increased cornering. I would do sway bars, but casper and others say that the endlinks crap out all the time. So,to keep it clean, i gotta do springs/shocks, maybe even struts. Any advice on struts from you guys? I am upgrading for perormance only no cosmetics. H&R springs are a similar 1.5 rear 1.7 front so it WILL look nice. But i want performance, GOOD HANDLING! WHAT DO I NEED TO INSTALL TO GET THAT?
Thanks for your input. From what i heard, to get the ride you want, well the ride that I want i need to do shocks too. I want the suspension stiffer for increased cornering. I would do sway bars, but casper and others say that the endlinks crap out all the time. So,to keep it clean, i gotta do springs/shocks, maybe even struts. Any advice on struts from you guys? I am upgrading for perormance only no cosmetics. H&R springs are a similar 1.5 rear 1.7 front so it WILL look nice. But i want performance, GOOD HANDLING! WHAT DO I NEED TO INSTALL TO GET THAT?
H&R SPORT SPRINGS for 96-97 HONDA ACCORD, INCL. WAGON (-1.75 F -1.50 R) (Yes those fit your car.
I haven't priced out the KYB AGX's yet, but you should be able to get all 4 for around $300. Springs, shocks and struts for the 97 Accord V6 fit our 99 3.0 CL's. I needed to adjust my front and rear camber after the drop, so you may need to as well. Make sure they check it, otherwise you'll eat through tires. If you do need camber adjustment, go with the adjustable ball joint or pivot mount methods. The offset bushings give most folks here problems that require cutting of the inside fender well to stop the rubbing/tapping.
Check out camber info here: http://www.progressauto.com/products/cmbrintro.html
#18
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
OK thanks for your advive. I am now thinking of the h&r springs, with kyb agx shocks. I have another question for the experts! DO ANY OF YOU OUT THERE HAVE STRUTS? I know we have them, but do you need to change them with new springs/shocks? Let me know, i want to get a nice ride as cheap as possible.
#19
Still trolling
I am on the stock shocks and struts still. Since my car only has 30k miles, and I only put around 9k miles a year on a car, I am not that worried about them getting torn up too quick.
Some things to keep in mind, your springs define the height of your ride and general suspension ride. The shocks and struts control the up and down travel. The stiffer the shocks/struts, the less up and down travel you will have because the shocks/struts will control it more. The looser the shocks/struts, the more up and down travel you will have. My car can get feeling lofty at high speeds when you go over rolling portions of the road (the wheels stay firm on the pavement while the frame doesn't follow, the shocks allow that movement). If I go to a stiffer shock, or an adjustable (KYB AGX's) on the stiffer settings, you will get less loft, and a harser ride (the car stays with the wheels more so). It really depends on the roads you travel as to what you need to do.
I give it to those with air ride suspension, it's nice to be able to adjust your ride to the road your traveling. That was a little too much money for me though (~2k for a full 4 corner kit, with pump, tubing, switches, etc).
Regardless, if you drive a lot, change your shocks and struts now. The springs mount on the struts and shocks, so when they pull them out, it's no more money to have the shocks installed. They un-bolt the top of the shock/strut to take the spring off and put the new ones on anyway, so if you got new shocks/struts, all they would need to do is mount the springs to the new shocks, remove the old set up and install the new. If you do this seperately, your going to have to pay for the dissassembly and reassembly again when you decide you need shocks/struts.
You will probably expect to pay about 300 for the shocks and struts, another 150 on the springs, and around 150 on the install. Then, if you need a camber kit, you are looking at another 150 (that's what my pivot mounts w/washers for the rear cost), and installation may run you 75-100. Lastly, an alignment is needed, which will run you another 70-100 (for a 4-wheel align. I needed a 4-wheel alignment since they adjusted my camber in the rear).
If you are mechanically inclined, and have the right tools a torque wrench (capable of up to 50-100ft-lbs, the suspension really only need around 25-30ft-lbs in most parts), and a good floor jack, you can do this yourself. An air-impact wrench can make life easier on the hard to loosen bolts, however a breaker bar should do alright. Lastly, you will need to rent a "good" spring compressor, otherwise, you can get hurt pretty bad if it gets loose while compressed.
All in all, it's not cheap, and even I wonder a few days later if it was worth it for the money spent. But when it's sitting there with 18" wheels, man does it look good (not to mention the heads that turn).
Some things to keep in mind, your springs define the height of your ride and general suspension ride. The shocks and struts control the up and down travel. The stiffer the shocks/struts, the less up and down travel you will have because the shocks/struts will control it more. The looser the shocks/struts, the more up and down travel you will have. My car can get feeling lofty at high speeds when you go over rolling portions of the road (the wheels stay firm on the pavement while the frame doesn't follow, the shocks allow that movement). If I go to a stiffer shock, or an adjustable (KYB AGX's) on the stiffer settings, you will get less loft, and a harser ride (the car stays with the wheels more so). It really depends on the roads you travel as to what you need to do.
I give it to those with air ride suspension, it's nice to be able to adjust your ride to the road your traveling. That was a little too much money for me though (~2k for a full 4 corner kit, with pump, tubing, switches, etc).
Regardless, if you drive a lot, change your shocks and struts now. The springs mount on the struts and shocks, so when they pull them out, it's no more money to have the shocks installed. They un-bolt the top of the shock/strut to take the spring off and put the new ones on anyway, so if you got new shocks/struts, all they would need to do is mount the springs to the new shocks, remove the old set up and install the new. If you do this seperately, your going to have to pay for the dissassembly and reassembly again when you decide you need shocks/struts.
You will probably expect to pay about 300 for the shocks and struts, another 150 on the springs, and around 150 on the install. Then, if you need a camber kit, you are looking at another 150 (that's what my pivot mounts w/washers for the rear cost), and installation may run you 75-100. Lastly, an alignment is needed, which will run you another 70-100 (for a 4-wheel align. I needed a 4-wheel alignment since they adjusted my camber in the rear).
If you are mechanically inclined, and have the right tools a torque wrench (capable of up to 50-100ft-lbs, the suspension really only need around 25-30ft-lbs in most parts), and a good floor jack, you can do this yourself. An air-impact wrench can make life easier on the hard to loosen bolts, however a breaker bar should do alright. Lastly, you will need to rent a "good" spring compressor, otherwise, you can get hurt pretty bad if it gets loose while compressed.
All in all, it's not cheap, and even I wonder a few days later if it was worth it for the money spent. But when it's sitting there with 18" wheels, man does it look good (not to mention the heads that turn).
#20
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
thanks, hey no one still answered my question. How much of a drop can you do without needing a camber kit? I heard the pro kit will still work. Let me know
#21
A-CL Post Whore w/N2O
Originally posted by ding069
thanks, hey no one still answered my question. How much of a drop can you do without needing a camber kit? I heard the pro kit will still work. Let me know
thanks, hey no one still answered my question. How much of a drop can you do without needing a camber kit? I heard the pro kit will still work. Let me know
#24
Cause stock sux.
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I got prokits with kyb agx's. I like the drop alot. Little tire gap, but not slammed, so I don't have to worry about scraping as much. Suspension is my favorite mod I've done out of all of them.
#25
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
Thanks rice, thats what i wanted to hear! I can wait to get them on. From what i hear, H&R's are great, not only on the CL forums, but a lot of other car's forums. I want a nice look, with a better ride, with the KYB, i can adjust it whenever i want. SO this should be exactly what i am looking for!
#26
acura-cl.com OG
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Got Rice?
I got prokits with kyb agx's. I like the drop alot. Little tire gap, but not slammed, so I don't have to worry about scraping as much. Suspension is my favorite mod I've done out of all of them.
I got prokits with kyb agx's. I like the drop alot. Little tire gap, but not slammed, so I don't have to worry about scraping as much. Suspension is my favorite mod I've done out of all of them.
So after that H&R is out, i ordered a set of the eibach pro kit 1.4 all the way. Also got a set of KYB's off ebay. So my drop will beo within 2 weeks! Thanks guys!
Oh yeah, for great prices on accessories, check out these guys, cheapest around from what i have seen:
http://www.adventon.com/
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