touchy subject? looking for G23 info....
Thread Starter
6spder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 1
From: North Port, FL/Chicago, IL
touchy subject? looking for G23 info....
I've searched our forum (via google) and read up on this swap a few places online
Just wanted to see if ANYONE here has done this sort of swap
(F23 block / H23 head)
My Goal is to have a running CL b4 winter so i can use it again.
I wont be doing any real performance stuff on it but i would like a little more power and atm it looks like all i need is a new head. so this came into mind.
any and ALL info greatly appreciated, i would like to know what parts i'll need to complete the job, from checking online and local yards, i can get a H23 head for not much more then a F23 head.
also can i use a H22 head? what's the difference?
thanx in advance
Just wanted to see if ANYONE here has done this sort of swap
(F23 block / H23 head)
My Goal is to have a running CL b4 winter so i can use it again.
I wont be doing any real performance stuff on it but i would like a little more power and atm it looks like all i need is a new head. so this came into mind.
any and ALL info greatly appreciated, i would like to know what parts i'll need to complete the job, from checking online and local yards, i can get a H23 head for not much more then a F23 head.
also can i use a H22 head? what's the difference?
thanx in advance
Senior Moderator
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,980
Likes: 79
From: Central FL...PSU Nittany Lion
Yep i'm one of them. The simplicity and apparent cost effectiveness of the swap is what attracted me to try it out, but there's ALOT of things that normal people need to do that mechanics take as second nature so they dont include in their build threads. I ran into a number of issues.
1)Milling the block. Both me and SilverCL97 ran into trouble with this. You have to get both the block and the head milled to fit on precisely so that there are no leaks. Silver melted the damn engine without it lol.
2) Headgasket fitment. The Fseries headgasket and Hseries head gaskets dont exactly match up. You've got to hondabond a couple oil drain plugs on the block and use the H series head gasket to make sure the head fits properly, and thats after the milling.
3) Waterpump piping fitment. The H series and F series waterpump piping on the block are completely different and need to be cut apart, welded together to make sure that they are in the proper place, or get a completely custom one. Not too bad but alot harder than it seems to get it exactly right and not leaking.
4) Compression ratio. Unless you're going to turbo the motor right through the build, the compression ratio is going to be DIRT low, and its not gonna bring the power you anticipated so to go N/A you have to replace the rods and pistons with a variant of H series pistons or possibly rsx-s pistons to bring the compression ratio to a range where you can produce power. Another thing to bring the cost of the swap way up.
Not to mention having to tune it, cuz it will not run smoothly unless u kick a few kinks out, which will requre a jumper harness and a chipped ecu. These are just the biggest things that come to mind that i was frustrated with when i tried the swap and attempted to get it running. And after this you can't even guarantee that the motor will start and run efficiently which sucks lol. You need alot of knowhow to get this to the finishing stages correctly. Give me another motor and a year, you'll see one running properly.
1)Milling the block. Both me and SilverCL97 ran into trouble with this. You have to get both the block and the head milled to fit on precisely so that there are no leaks. Silver melted the damn engine without it lol.
2) Headgasket fitment. The Fseries headgasket and Hseries head gaskets dont exactly match up. You've got to hondabond a couple oil drain plugs on the block and use the H series head gasket to make sure the head fits properly, and thats after the milling.
3) Waterpump piping fitment. The H series and F series waterpump piping on the block are completely different and need to be cut apart, welded together to make sure that they are in the proper place, or get a completely custom one. Not too bad but alot harder than it seems to get it exactly right and not leaking.
4) Compression ratio. Unless you're going to turbo the motor right through the build, the compression ratio is going to be DIRT low, and its not gonna bring the power you anticipated so to go N/A you have to replace the rods and pistons with a variant of H series pistons or possibly rsx-s pistons to bring the compression ratio to a range where you can produce power. Another thing to bring the cost of the swap way up.
Not to mention having to tune it, cuz it will not run smoothly unless u kick a few kinks out, which will requre a jumper harness and a chipped ecu. These are just the biggest things that come to mind that i was frustrated with when i tried the swap and attempted to get it running. And after this you can't even guarantee that the motor will start and run efficiently which sucks lol. You need alot of knowhow to get this to the finishing stages correctly. Give me another motor and a year, you'll see one running properly.
Thread Starter
6spder
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 1
From: North Port, FL/Chicago, IL
so in other words your suggesting I just get a F23 head and call it day. i have mechnical skills (i'm good with custom stuff) but you're suggesting its just not worth it, money and time wise invloved in the swap. hmmm
Sounded good on paper i guess. I'll be ripping apart my top end to figure out the damage i caused in the next 2 months, we'll see how bad it is. i gotta get this puppy on the road, i don't want to keep putting miles on my legend (too mint, too low miles to drive it daily)
Sounded good on paper i guess. I'll be ripping apart my top end to figure out the damage i caused in the next 2 months, we'll see how bad it is. i gotta get this puppy on the road, i don't want to keep putting miles on my legend (too mint, too low miles to drive it daily)
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 92,798
Likes: 4,705
From: ShitsBurgh
Senior Moderator
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,980
Likes: 79
From: Central FL...PSU Nittany Lion
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
Trending Topics
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 139
Likes: 1
From: westchester, ny or philly
There is alot of info on the frankenstein G23's and such on honda tech.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2168311
Thats the faq. scroll down a bit you will see the hybrids.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2168311
Thats the faq. scroll down a bit you will see the hybrids.
Senior Moderator
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 7,980
Likes: 79
From: Central FL...PSU Nittany Lion
Originally Posted by Kulrevon
There is alot of info on the frankenstein G23's and such on honda tech.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2168311
Thats the faq. scroll down a bit you will see the hybrids.
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2168311
Thats the faq. scroll down a bit you will see the hybrids.
That's pretty much all of it right here. As for the headgasket, you also have to remove one of the copper fastners that hold the headgasket together or it won't seal properly.
I should post of pics of how
my "G" got but i just can't find the damn cable for the camera 
I should post of pics of how
my "G" got but i just can't find the damn cable for the camera
Originally Posted by DaInFaMMuS1
Yep i'm one of them. The simplicity and apparent cost effectiveness of the swap is what attracted me to try it out, but there's ALOT of things that normal people need to do that mechanics take as second nature so they dont include in their build threads. I ran into a number of issues.
1)Milling the block. Both me and SilverCL97 ran into trouble with this. You have to get both the block and the head milled to fit on precisely so that there are no leaks. Silver melted the damn engine without it lol.
2) Headgasket fitment. The Fseries headgasket and Hseries head gaskets dont exactly match up. You've got to hondabond a couple oil drain plugs on the block and use the H series head gasket to make sure the head fits properly, and thats after the milling.
3) Waterpump piping fitment. The H series and F series waterpump piping on the block are completely different and need to be cut apart, welded together to make sure that they are in the proper place, or get a completely custom one. Not too bad but alot harder than it seems to get it exactly right and not leaking.
4) Compression ratio. Unless you're going to turbo the motor right through the build, the compression ratio is going to be DIRT low, and its not gonna bring the power you anticipated so to go N/A you have to replace the rods and pistons with a variant of H series pistons or possibly rsx-s pistons to bring the compression ratio to a range where you can produce power. Another thing to bring the cost of the swap way up.
Not to mention having to tune it, cuz it will not run smoothly unless u kick a few kinks out, which will requre a jumper harness and a chipped ecu. These are just the biggest things that come to mind that i was frustrated with when i tried the swap and attempted to get it running. And after this you can't even guarantee that the motor will start and run efficiently which sucks lol. You need alot of knowhow to get this to the finishing stages correctly. Give me another motor and a year, you'll see one running properly.
1)Milling the block. Both me and SilverCL97 ran into trouble with this. You have to get both the block and the head milled to fit on precisely so that there are no leaks. Silver melted the damn engine without it lol.
2) Headgasket fitment. The Fseries headgasket and Hseries head gaskets dont exactly match up. You've got to hondabond a couple oil drain plugs on the block and use the H series head gasket to make sure the head fits properly, and thats after the milling.
3) Waterpump piping fitment. The H series and F series waterpump piping on the block are completely different and need to be cut apart, welded together to make sure that they are in the proper place, or get a completely custom one. Not too bad but alot harder than it seems to get it exactly right and not leaking.
4) Compression ratio. Unless you're going to turbo the motor right through the build, the compression ratio is going to be DIRT low, and its not gonna bring the power you anticipated so to go N/A you have to replace the rods and pistons with a variant of H series pistons or possibly rsx-s pistons to bring the compression ratio to a range where you can produce power. Another thing to bring the cost of the swap way up.
Not to mention having to tune it, cuz it will not run smoothly unless u kick a few kinks out, which will requre a jumper harness and a chipped ecu. These are just the biggest things that come to mind that i was frustrated with when i tried the swap and attempted to get it running. And after this you can't even guarantee that the motor will start and run efficiently which sucks lol. You need alot of knowhow to get this to the finishing stages correctly. Give me another motor and a year, you'll see one running properly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
blacktsxwagon
5G TLX (2015-2020)
42
Oct 27, 2015 10:12 PM
joflewbyu2
5G TLX (2015-2020)
139
Oct 8, 2015 11:16 AM
