Does anybody know if CL-S swaybars are bigger than the 1st gen CL's, and are they a direct bolt on? Or, are the 3.0CL bars any different than the 2.2/2.3?

 

I believe the rears bars are the same for the 3.0 and 2.3. The front is different though. The front 3.0 is bigger than the 2.3....i guess cuz the v6 weighs more than the 4 cyl.

as for type S sway bars....i dont think they are the same.

 

i read up on sways bars, and they said that since we have front wheel drive that they say that we will have better handling with just the rear sway and not the front, because the sway in the front is supposed to make the front used more, but since front wheel drive is all to the front, i read that for better performance, a good sway in the back is all we need for improved handling. thats wat i read...i dunno, is this true?

 

Yeah...this is what everybody says and it is true to some degree.

It is all about vehicle dynamics and balance. Just upgrading your rear bar will make your tail end loose. You will be able to oversteer through corners (fishtail). This is a bit scary if you cannot handle your car especially since most drivers have the tendency to brake if they are goin too fast through a corner. If you do this with a rear sway bar upgrade...SAY HELLO to a possible spin out.

THe front and rear ST bars tune the car for slight understeer because it is safer. Cars in stock form are tuned for lots of understeer because it is easier to handle.

I tuned out the understeer with my shocks....my car is fairly neutral.....but with a little understeer.


My friend has a GSR with the comptech rear sway bar....man....that tail end swings out quite a bit through hard corners. He knows what he is doing so he can deal with it, plus he only drives fast at autox's.....not on the street.


Bottom line......Get both front and rear......not really too expensive anyway.

 

Depends on the car. My last car, a 2.5RS, was tuned for lots of understeer. I increased the rear bar size from 13mm to 20mm and left the front one alone. It became very neutral; at speeds over 30 mph near the limit, the tail would instantly come around if you let off the gas. This is great for more experienced drivers on the track and not so great for anyone else anywhere else.

I upgraded the rear bar on my WRX wagon from 17mm to 20mm and achieved similar results. I've yet to autox the CL so I can't give any input, but I'm scheduled to run the CL next Saturday.

 

so if i get a rear sway bar i'll be able get my back end to kick out around corners??? no f*in way u talkin like a rear wheel drive car does ... i drove a lexus is300 all summer ( god i miss that car ) i drove that car so well with the traction control off that people thought that i should race... drifting around long tight corners type of shit .. any chance that could happen in my CL?? it would make the car soooooo much more fun to drive

MaCe

 

Well, you'd be able to get the rear end around by jumping off the throttle at the limit, but you wouldn't be able to really do a controlled powerslide like a RWD or AWD car.

And Colin McRae or not, you really shouldn't be doing this on public roads. Look at what happened to f0de.

 

Hey RidinLow

what suspension mods and tires do u have on the CL?

Post your impressions and results after the Autox

 

Springs: Eibach Prokit
Shocks: KYB AGX
Swaybars: Stock, but the rear one got nicked by a Sawzall... due to be replaced
Front Tires: Continental CH95 (yeah!)
Rear Tires: OEM Michelins (even better)

Actually, I always take the WRX autoxing, but this time, I'm taking the CL because I really want an excuse to have to replace the tires... and wheels along with them.

 

"rear one got nicked by a Sawzall"

LOL

Don't ya just love Sawzalls!!!!



Hey RidinLow...you seem pretty knowledgeable.....

what is your opinion on the "Does Venom 400 work" thread and the "Venom intake manifold" thread......

 

Yeah, gotta love Sawzalls, as long as the Saw part cuts what you want it to cut.

I don't have any experience with any Venom products, but I feel that you can accomplish the same results as their chip with an Apexi AFC or Field SFC, combined with an Apexi ITC... plus you can custom tailor their settings to match your particular car & mods whereas the chip remains constant.

However, doing so requires tuning time, A/F & EGT gauges, & the possibility that you may fuck your car up if you don't know what you're doing.

As for the intake manifold & throttle body & stuff, that's only useful if you've done everything else, especially after nitrous and/or forced induction. However, I also believe that it's not worth going to this stage on an F22/F23. I'd rather save up the money and get an H22... you get a 50hp increase while still keeping factory driveability and reliability. Then, you can go ahead & mod from there, bringing everything up a level.

Let me know if this doesn't make any sense, I'm trying to watch Jay & Silent Bob Strike back right now.

 

Also, the bang for the buck is really, really low with parts like the manifold. $500, for a horse or two? Probably not even that with an F22/23 with simple bolt ons.

But it does look cool, for those of you interested in looks.

 

I ordered the ST swaybars from Summit just now for $245 shipped. I'm planning on putting just the rear one on for this weekend's autox. If it's too tail happy, I'll put the front one on too. Should be fun.