resetting ecu?
you can accomplish this by simply removing the ecu fuse and the radio back up fuse (can't reme,be which one so do both. The reason you need to do this is because the ECU needs to recollect the airflow data and update its settings since you are getting more air intake than normal. There are a few other reasons to do it, but rather than type them all out, ill just say: your buddy is right, go do it!
oh and two things to remember, one...after you reset it, let the car run(idle) for 15 min before you drive anywhere and two..make sure you have the codes for your factory head unit if you have one. I hope this helps. Happy modding.
oh and two things to remember, one...after you reset it, let the car run(idle) for 15 min before you drive anywhere and two..make sure you have the codes for your factory head unit if you have one. I hope this helps. Happy modding.
This was the instructions I got a while back.
1. Run the car at idle for about 5 minutes.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Remove the ECU fuse (Under the hood of the car) and leave it out for 10-15minutes.
4. Put the ECU fuse back in.
5. Start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Don't rev the motor.
6. Turn off the car, then turn it back on.
I got that from an Accord site a long time ago.
1. Run the car at idle for about 5 minutes.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Remove the ECU fuse (Under the hood of the car) and leave it out for 10-15minutes.
4. Put the ECU fuse back in.
5. Start the car and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Don't rev the motor.
6. Turn off the car, then turn it back on.
I got that from an Accord site a long time ago.
run you car about 5 mins and keep it idleing, unhook you battery for about 10-15 mins, then hook the battery back up and then start the car and run it for another 5 and your set. but i think a lot of people have told you already, hope its helps
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Originally posted by infiniteq
i thought that the 1st gen CL ECU's were not the "learning" type. Since I've added a CAI and a ZEX kit I wonder if doing this will help. Can anyone else verify this?
i thought that the 1st gen CL ECU's were not the "learning" type. Since I've added a CAI and a ZEX kit I wonder if doing this will help. Can anyone else verify this?
ok, here you go:
1. remove the ecu fuse.
2. remove the battery. (both the fuse and battery should be done because some ecu's have memory storage, as do some newer radios)
3. sit for at least 15 minutes.
4. plug ecu and battery back in.
5. start without touching gas, let idle for 10-15 min.
6. after 15 mins. rev engine to rev limiter 2-3 times.
7. drive, run every gear out to redline (4th gear AT and 5th gear MT not really necessary).
8(optional). some cars like the first gen eclipses, talons, laser (dsm) will reset back to stock settings after a while, and a friend of mine running 12's in a 93 eclipse would repeat steps 1-7 often, like before races. the difference everytime he did this was very noticeable.
1. remove the ecu fuse.
2. remove the battery. (both the fuse and battery should be done because some ecu's have memory storage, as do some newer radios)
3. sit for at least 15 minutes.
4. plug ecu and battery back in.
5. start without touching gas, let idle for 10-15 min.
6. after 15 mins. rev engine to rev limiter 2-3 times.
7. drive, run every gear out to redline (4th gear AT and 5th gear MT not really necessary).
8(optional). some cars like the first gen eclipses, talons, laser (dsm) will reset back to stock settings after a while, and a friend of mine running 12's in a 93 eclipse would repeat steps 1-7 often, like before races. the difference everytime he did this was very noticeable.
does this make it noticeably different in performance because i did notice my car bogs between idle and 2500-3500 rpms..
i'm gonna try it today to see if it really changes the way it runs..
btw... i have a 2.2cl 5spd, and mods are aem cai, greddy evo, and aem fuel pressure reg..
cant believe my mechanic never said anything after i installed the fuel reg..
i'm gonna try it today to see if it really changes the way it runs..
btw... i have a 2.2cl 5spd, and mods are aem cai, greddy evo, and aem fuel pressure reg..
cant believe my mechanic never said anything after i installed the fuel reg..
Originally posted by dulux
when you say run it to rev limiter do you mean that we should go all the way up until the fuel cuts out, or stop right before it?
when you say run it to rev limiter do you mean that we should go all the way up until the fuel cuts out, or stop right before it?
sometimes when my car is cold and i stomp on it you can hear the rev limiter kick once before it shifts.
clstyle: you should notice a nice difference when you do this.
delux and cappa
did u guys try this yet,
iam gonna try this
see what happens,
also hey rem,
i read in the cl manual that it is bad
when your engine idles,
it recommends not letting the engine idle for more than 3minutes.
what's up with that?
thanks man.
did u guys try this yet,
iam gonna try this
see what happens,
also hey rem,
i read in the cl manual that it is bad
when your engine idles,
it recommends not letting the engine idle for more than 3minutes.
what's up with that?
thanks man.
Originally posted by clstyle
delux and cappa
did u guys try this yet,
iam gonna try this
see what happens,
also hey rem,
i read in the cl manual that it is bad
when your engine idles,
it recommends not letting the engine idle for more than 3minutes.
what's up with that?
thanks man.
delux and cappa
did u guys try this yet,
iam gonna try this
see what happens,
also hey rem,
i read in the cl manual that it is bad
when your engine idles,
it recommends not letting the engine idle for more than 3minutes.
what's up with that?
thanks man.
If you haven't modded your car, this is pretty much pointless.(Correct me if I'm wrong)
Now, due to my n00bness I didn't know where or what the ECU fuse looks like. So I just unhooked the negative cable from my battery, hoping to see some results.
I know for a fact I got better throttle response from it, and in step 7 of rmstoico's reply I was addicted to stabbin' the gas.
Now, due to my n00bness I didn't know where or what the ECU fuse looks like. So I just unhooked the negative cable from my battery, hoping to see some results.
I know for a fact I got better throttle response from it, and in step 7 of rmstoico's reply I was addicted to stabbin' the gas.
I reset my ecu today, oh yeah I also installed my aem cai finally (w/bypass, In south florida I drive through like a foot of water sometimes to get home when it rains here, everything gets flooded.) and I also installed my 6x9's in the back and boy what a pain in the ass they were. The freaking magnet was so big that it would hit my trunk opening rods that run across the trunk ceiling when I stuck the new speaker in the hole. So I fabricated a plexiglass spacer 1" thick so that my speaker would sit higher in the hole, then I had to modify the grill to fit over the now raised speaker!!! My god a 6x9 install that took 3 hours! Oh yeah but off topic....I installed the intake and reset my ecu and yeah I can feel the difference but Im not sure if resetting the ecu helped cause I didnt know how the intake felt first. I had trouble redlining 4th gear in my 5 spd. cause I would hit like 100 at 4 rpm's and there was traffic so I had to keep slowing down.
damn slow south florida drivers. But Im happy with my car for right now, Ill probably reset it again when I do my oil change tommorrow in case it makes a difference redlining it all the way up to 4th, or maybe Im just looking for an excuse to blaze down the road at 110+mph again 
Dooney: I dont understand why you cant take an AEM bypass valve and stick it on a injen pipe, I mean if your injen is 2.75 inches in diameter, just get an AEM bypass valve that is 2.75 inches in diameter and I dont see why it wont work, its not like its a connected to computer chip or anything, its just the laws of physics and pressure that make a bypass work, not the brand of the tubing its on.
damn slow south florida drivers. But Im happy with my car for right now, Ill probably reset it again when I do my oil change tommorrow in case it makes a difference redlining it all the way up to 4th, or maybe Im just looking for an excuse to blaze down the road at 110+mph again 
Dooney: I dont understand why you cant take an AEM bypass valve and stick it on a injen pipe, I mean if your injen is 2.75 inches in diameter, just get an AEM bypass valve that is 2.75 inches in diameter and I dont see why it wont work, its not like its a connected to computer chip or anything, its just the laws of physics and pressure that make a bypass work, not the brand of the tubing its on.
I definitely felt a performance increase.
I think I figured out that the humming sound is coming from my intake but I'm not exactly sure I'll look into it again when I get off work...
Until then I'm gonna have to put up with this godamn sound.
I think I figured out that the humming sound is coming from my intake but I'm not exactly sure I'll look into it again when I get off work...
Until then I'm gonna have to put up with this godamn sound.
OK I'm lost. I've read section 11 in my Acura manuel till I'm going blind and I don't see where you are getting your ECU reset instructions.
Mine says to use the OBDII tool to reset, or remove the radio fuse for 7seconds. NOTHING about idleing for any period of time or reving to fuel cut off. The only big difference I could find was engine fuel cut off speed between A/T vsM/T
Please enlighten me as to where all this info is coming from.
My book is the factory 2.3 manuel.
Mine says to use the OBDII tool to reset, or remove the radio fuse for 7seconds. NOTHING about idleing for any period of time or reving to fuel cut off. The only big difference I could find was engine fuel cut off speed between A/T vsM/T
Please enlighten me as to where all this info is coming from.
My book is the factory 2.3 manuel.
I just did this process, this morning, step by step..
.. I had to wait until it stopped raining..
..my car is running at least 50% faster, cai and exhaust are both louder, and to top it off my engine is running smoother and reving easier. I'd just like to thank you for this post.. I was worrying that my car was the fastest it was going to get with all the money I spent, but this makes it well worth it.
I can chirp in 1st and 2nd now.. never could before..
BTW..
I got a AEM CAI, GREDDY EVO, and FUEL PRESSURE REG..
Originally posted by rmstoico
ok, here you go:
1. remove the ecu fuse.
2. remove the battery. (both the fuse and battery should be done because some ecu's have memory storage, as do some newer radios)
3. sit for at least 15 minutes.
4. plug ecu and battery back in.
5. start without touching gas, let idle for 10-15 min.
6. after 15 mins. rev engine to rev limiter 2-3 times.
7. drive, run every gear out to redline (4th gear AT and 5th gear MT not really necessary).
8(optional). some cars like the first gen eclipses, talons, laser (dsm) will reset back to stock settings after a while, and a friend of mine running 12's in a 93 eclipse would repeat steps 1-7 often, like before races. the difference everytime he did this was very noticeable.
ok, here you go:
1. remove the ecu fuse.
2. remove the battery. (both the fuse and battery should be done because some ecu's have memory storage, as do some newer radios)
3. sit for at least 15 minutes.
4. plug ecu and battery back in.
5. start without touching gas, let idle for 10-15 min.
6. after 15 mins. rev engine to rev limiter 2-3 times.
7. drive, run every gear out to redline (4th gear AT and 5th gear MT not really necessary).
8(optional). some cars like the first gen eclipses, talons, laser (dsm) will reset back to stock settings after a while, and a friend of mine running 12's in a 93 eclipse would repeat steps 1-7 often, like before races. the difference everytime he did this was very noticeable.
..my car is running at least 50% faster, cai and exhaust are both louder, and to top it off my engine is running smoother and reving easier. I'd just like to thank you for this post.. I was worrying that my car was the fastest it was going to get with all the money I spent, but this makes it well worth it.
I can chirp in 1st and 2nd now.. never could before..
BTW..
I got a AEM CAI, GREDDY EVO, and FUEL PRESSURE REG..
So if my car is stock, will resetting the ecu make any kind of difference? I have a 5spd, and it kind of seems to bog down sometimes when I'm at lower rpm, trying to get up. And also, after i reset the ecu, do i really have to rev it up to the rev limiter, and redline all the gears? Or will just following steps 1-5/6 would be enough? Thanks for the help.
From what i can understand the whole reason behind reseting the ECU is so the car knows that there is more air coming in, going out, more spark or whatever the mod adds to your car. If your car is stock and nothing has changed there's really nothing for the ECU to "learn" so there's really no reason to reset it.
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