Rear Disk Brakes and ABS Q
#1
Rear Disk Brakes and ABS Q
Hi all,
When the car is rolling, I can hear the rotors grinding. At this point, would the car need new rotors and pads or can the rotors be re-machined? Can a stuck e-brake cause this issue? How do I determine if the rotors and pads are bad?
Heres a few pics of the rotors..
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2092.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2094.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2096.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2097.jpg
Also, the ABS light is on solid. How can I test and troubleshoot this?
Car is a 97 2.2 CL Auto.
Thanks
When the car is rolling, I can hear the rotors grinding. At this point, would the car need new rotors and pads or can the rotors be re-machined? Can a stuck e-brake cause this issue? How do I determine if the rotors and pads are bad?
Heres a few pics of the rotors..
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2092.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2094.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2096.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92/ddzc/IMG_2097.jpg
Also, the ABS light is on solid. How can I test and troubleshoot this?
Car is a 97 2.2 CL Auto.
Thanks
#2
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
Sounds like a seized caliper
#4
Thanks,
How can I test if it's a seized caliper? I noticed on the front calipers, if you unbolt the bottom bolt, it swivels to the top which gives you access to the pads. I can't do the same with the rear calipers, I need to remove the top bolt as well. Not sure if this is any help.
How can I test if it's a seized caliper? I noticed on the front calipers, if you unbolt the bottom bolt, it swivels to the top which gives you access to the pads. I can't do the same with the rear calipers, I need to remove the top bolt as well. Not sure if this is any help.
#5
6spd FTW
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When you go to turn the rear piston in to retract it, it will hang or won't move at all. My rear passenger one is siezed but it is siezed open so I haven't bothered with it yet. My rotor has the same odd wear.
#6
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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you have a leaking rear and seized caliper. very common problem on the CL and other hondas of that era. you'll definitely new a new caliper, i'd recommend changing both, and new rotors and pads.
#7
Boats and Hoes!
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could be the wear sensor grinding on the rotor, in which case you need new pads. Worst case: new pads, rotors and calipers. The pistons can be a bitch to adjust. You can probly get away without getting new rotors but if youve got it all torn apart anyways it might be a good idea to change them.
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#8
Drifting
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison, Nj || Woodbridge, CT
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ive got warped rotors and pads that are shredded to shit from ebrake troubles. my calipers dont seemed seezed seeing as the chunking noise gets louder as i apply the brakes.. i just ordered new rear pads and rotors for 50$ shipped lol planning on doing it probably this weekend.
#9
Drifting
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question i was thinking of actually.. do yall think that pb blaster would help to loosen a seized caliper or help with some of the rust build up? id like to de-rust and galvanize//rust-oleum as much of my brake assembly as i can.
#10
Hey all,
I took apart everything..cleaned the caliper, seals, piston, etc of all the dirt and grime,re-lubed everything. I put brand new rotors and pads on it..I noticed on the RR grinding side, one pad had like 50% and the other was on the metal..looks like that was the primary reason for the grinding. This is for the rear disk brakes BTW.
Anyway, I put it all together, bled the rear brakes and the car runs perfect now.
My question is...is it highly recommended to also bleed the front brakes, even though I serviced the rear brakes only? I got a lot of mixed up results when talking to people...the car runs perfect and the brakes stop on the dime as it is right now..I never bled the fronts.
Thanks
I took apart everything..cleaned the caliper, seals, piston, etc of all the dirt and grime,re-lubed everything. I put brand new rotors and pads on it..I noticed on the RR grinding side, one pad had like 50% and the other was on the metal..looks like that was the primary reason for the grinding. This is for the rear disk brakes BTW.
Anyway, I put it all together, bled the rear brakes and the car runs perfect now.
My question is...is it highly recommended to also bleed the front brakes, even though I serviced the rear brakes only? I got a lot of mixed up results when talking to people...the car runs perfect and the brakes stop on the dime as it is right now..I never bled the fronts.
Thanks
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