I have found 3 CL interested in buying hope someone can give me a opinon on them:

1. 98 light blue CL 3.0 with 76 000 miles black leather interior,
has fog lights, window tinting that is peeling, 3.0CL on trunk
has been cut to 3.0Cl, rocker moulding scratched, rear bumper
to quarter panel gap seems tighter then other side, interior is
a mess scratches and worn steering wheel. The battery was
low or needed charging seemed odd. Overall body is tip top
engine seems to run smooth. Price at independent dealer
with a 6 month power train warranty and safety emmissions
and taxes is around $ 10, 000 U.S. It was traded to a Acura
dealership for a TSX wonder why the dealer didn't certify it
and keep it on the lot?

2. 98 Silver exterior, black interior 2.3CL with 35 000 miles
on it. Private seller has documentation of service
history at dealership. Scratches on corner bumper on both
sides on both front and back, paint chips on hood asking is
high may get it for $10,000U.S. taxes included.

3. 98 Silver exterior black interior mint condion 2.3CL 76 000 miles
private dealer says it was a tradin for a 3.2CLS no real
documentation says there is a privacy act only owners
permission can give authorization to give service records from
dealership at Acura price is high but salesman tell me "I
have to talk with the manager $10,000U.S. but don't quote
me on it" taxes included.

To have the cars looked at with a mechanic the two dealers tell
me that there cars can't go out for more then 3 miles to a local garage for inspection. The dealer with the mint condition car has there own houst and could have a mechanic of my choosing to look at it at there location for a nominal fee. So my problem is can't bring the car to my trusted mechanic because it's to far away they tell me. 15 miles one way to my mechanic is that unreasonable?
I prefer a V6 the V4 reminds me of my 90 accord EX-R

Thanks You.

 

geta 3.0 or i think you'll regret it, but not the one you mentioned, you can definetly find a nicer one...

 

id def. get a 3.0 but shop around a bit more, that price seems high for the condition that ones in

 

1-Don't get a CL period
2-If you must get a CL, get a 3.0 or 3.2

 

All three of those prices are high. And that one probably isnt dealer certified because of the high mileage. Get a 2.3 5 speed or a 3.0 auto.

 

what a queer.... dumbass youre on ACURA-CL.COM....

get a 3.0 fa sho..... under 10k is a good price....

 

I love my 3.0, just take good care of your tranny and you wont have any problems =)

 

$10,000U.S. add another 2K and u could be rolling in a BMW 328i or is

 

i just paid 12000 for a 1999 3.0 with 69000 miles...deff go 3.0 you can notice a lot of diff while test driving

 

I bought a 3.0L premium yesterday for $,500. It has 82,000 miles on it. It has some minor scratches and dings, but remember these cars are 6 years old now. The interior is mint and the the things runs like new (so far)!
Good Luck. Be patient.

 

I meant to say $8,500.

 

It was a 1998 too, damn I need to go to bed..............

 

I'll shoot you

-I meant don't get a CL for 10k...period, I shortened it due to lack of time.

 

you'll shoot me??? you need jesus.....
anyways you should have wrote that in your original post....

 

or buy my fully built h22 + turbo kit and get a 4cyl cl (like $4-$5k with high mileage) and drop it in there and have the illest honda around!

Check out my engine on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2480140419

 

haha, he's pimping his ebay auction in every topic. And wouldn't it be the "illest acura acound"?

And Sir. why doyou say not to get a CL for 10k period? I looked up the blue book value for the car I jsut bought for $11.5k and it's blue book retail value is $16k. I think you're on something.

 

...your blue book is 16k? holy shit man

i wish mine was that high

 

Prices I quoted are on the money if you look at Kelly Blue Book its higher then the price I'm getting. You guys have to realize taxes are double what you may pay down there if you buy from a dealer here. I've been looking for 6 months for good one and if there was a car someone overpays so the price to me is not worth it.
There is another car Black on Grey leather auto 3.0 1998 with
58 000 miles they want or asking $13 250 U.S see what I'm dealing with.
Take me for a ride to Niagra Falls and throw me in it.

 

yeah, my blue book is like $15,820 or something like that. It's close enought o 16k. here's a link: http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/kw.kc.l...0Coupe%202D&&& I think that'll work. it's got 45k miles on it, and it's in perfect condition. the paint has a few tiny tiny scratches, and the leather has one or two scrapes, but no tears. Good stuff. I talked the dealership down to $11,500. I'm good.

 

How did you talk down the price? Give me some advice or excuses aspecially a private young couple who are clueless on pricing a car that I mentioned. People are greedy.

 

tell them that the car has been discounted. the retail prices for discounted cars are very low.

but def get the 3.0. cuz i have one

 

Any rust problems on those CL's in (guessing your location)Ontario?

 

Ok, I'm real good at manipulating people, so that kinda helped with it, but here's pretty much what you need to do.

Get the blue book value of the cars(Kelly Blue Book ). If it's a private party it will be considerably lower than the retail price. The mileage makes a big difference,s o make sure you get the blue book value for that mileage.

When you look at the car, ask to pop teh hood and look at it for a while. Look to make sure there is no oil anywhere on the engine block. IF you see any(make sure it's not dirt), the price of the car can be talked down by at least $500.

Make sure the AC works and everything, if anything doesn't work you can talk off about $100 for each little thing like heated seats not working, or a button is loose or borken. Thinks like that. Make sure there are no hidden stains inside the car, adn if there are you can take off a couple hundred if it's a big stain.

NEVER EVER EVER EVER....EVER!!! Pay the asking price. Never do this. Always try to talk it down by at LEAST $500.

another thing. Read up on cars for a bit, and when you are looking at teh car, dn you know a little about car sand the seller knows nothing, you can talk about shit that SOUNDS like you know what youa retalking about, as long as it SEEMS to make sense, they'll take your word for it. If you say that X will cause a problem, make up a story about seeing a situation like that before and about how a problem arose. If you can lie, they'll buy it.

Most of the time they'll take your word for it, and if they're in a hurry to get rid of the car, you can jack them for even more.


Good luck.

 

canada?

wanna come down to Seattle and check mine out?

 

No Rust on cars I described.
Thanks for the info I hope of 6 months of learning the cars bad attributes on this site gives me some knowledge. Hope to share some of the bad luck some have of the CL's to some of the owners.
As for private sellers being lower in cost how do you even talk to people when they expect $ 13 200 U.S for a 98 3.0 with
58 000 miles. Even KBB is less then that, but they look at websites in California dealers offering $16 000 for the same car.

 

but that's cali... everything is more expensive in cali. $16000 for that car is just rediculously high. there's no fuckig way they sold the car at 16k. just tell them straight out that the price's too high. and do what ghost told you.

 

Well, I'll be happy to get 9,500US for my 97 3.0 with 66,000 miles

 

Buy mine.

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=142046

 

I can't believe the low ebay prices: 97 3.0 for around 5,000 and one went for 3,300 with a bad tranny! There got to be a catch?

 

Tell them that it's just that. It's from a DEALER!! The dealers refurbish the interior and as much fo the mechanical aspect of the car as they can. The cars that they sell are in as good of condition as you can get.. assuming it's a reliable dealer of course.

Tell them that it's a private sale, adn thus teh price drops considerably since there COULD be numerous things wrong with thae car that aren't immmediately noticable. If they refuse to drop it, tell them sarcasticaly "good luck finding a buyer" adn roll your eyes. then tell them that you'll call back in a few weeks too see if they are ready to be serious.

Works every time. you'd be surprised.

I love being manipulative .

 

sucks to be your g/f

 

For a 98 3.0 with 58 000 miles depending the month they bought the car in 98 it could be a January car($8500) which would make the car 6 in half years old. December car which could make it 5
in half years old and more expesive( $10,700).
This is my worry that at a June 1998 or later bought car, I will not be able to afford the acceptable price they should get. My price should not exceed $9500 regardless of the month they received the car.

My belief in negotiating with these type of people I should never talk about price until they do, if they start at the asking price I will stare and act shocked and try to change the subject about money and focus the topic on the car. Wait until they bring the subject of price up again this time at a reasonable price that makes sense. Why should I pay more per year for the car then they did new, if you pro rate the cars total cost at four years.
(This is, if your cars life expectancy is 10 years.)

 

She's a real bitch sometiems,a dn a little bit manipulateive herself, so it doesn't work on her too well, but at least she keeps me in line sometimes.