Hites

wheres the best place to get some forged 11:1 cr pistons and some slightly more aggressive cams? i doubt that theres a place that sells them, so wheres the cheapest place to custom ones made? what i would REALLY like in terms of cams is to have the stock lobes, but have more aggressive vtec lobes, and have a controller/switch that lets me remotely control vtec cam switch-over instead of having it automatically do it at a set rpm; anything like that out for sale?

btw, is there anybody here who can modify the ecu so the redline and revlimiter are raised? im willing to pay.

jtothees

remote control vtec :wackit:

Hites

care to share a link? im not looking for a vafc.

97Cl22

I think he was just stroking the monkey by the thought of remote control vtec...not sure where to get any of this kind of stuff man. Custom stuff isn't gonna be cheep, so go wherever you can find. Wish i could be more help...

proaudio22

For the price of all that shit, you could just buy a faster car.

Hites

my friends offering me his cl for $2500; does that explain why im going with a v6 cl? so theres no such thing as a manual vtec controller? why the hell hasnt anyone made something like that yet?

proaudio22

No, not really. My previous statement still stands.

It isn't like a lightswitch buddy, it's complicated. You can't just change it whenever you want.

Hites

im not trying to build a race car; if i wanted a race car id be looking for 12.5:1 pistons or a t3/t4 turbo kit. i just looked at the 3.0 v6, seen a lot of potential, and decided to go with it since i found such a great deal. i figure a 300 hp cl would be a nice reliable daily driver with enough kick to whoop up on the goofy ricer civics, probes, and other crap polluting the area.

Hites

hey, is the cl sohc or dohc? if its dohc, could i just use the specs for the integra type r cams for my custom cams?

shaolin

dohc

jtothees

all cl's are sohc......that is why many people drop an h22a into their 2.2's..

CLUofI

you can put the CL-S cam in the 3.0

Hites

you mean cams, right? both of em? so the 03+ cls 3.2 cams are a direct fit into the 97 3.0 cl? if this is true, you probably saved me about $200. how aggressive are those cams (ie. to what cams could they be compared to: integra type r, integra gsr, civic si, etc.)? how high can those cams rev? if they can efficiently hit 8k, im happy.

CLUofI

yes you would hopefully want 2 of them
you will never hit 8k on that engine, dont try. If you want a wailing red line you picked the wrong engine.

search for info on this it has been discussed a couple times.

Hites

then what redline would you suggest? i dont WANT an 8k redline, but if thats what i NEED to take advantage of other internal mods then i would do it. whats the stock redline and revlimit?

Hites

should i be able to get 300 hp by raising the cr from 9.4:1 to 11:1, adding cl-s cams, evening out the af ratio, and raising the redline from 5500 rpm to 7000 rpm?

baka_t

Good luck trying to get it on the pavement our trannys suck and you will probally loose alot of it. Id look into beefing up the tranny along with the engine.

Hites

i almost never drive cars hard. the teg i have now, i dont think ive ever drove it at wot and ive owned it for bout a year now. "then why do you want a high hp car?" yeah yeah, i know; i just like having that power on tap, theres just something about it that i lust for.
whoops, looks like i never mentioned that i was also planning on letting level 10 beef up the torque convertor.

your response makes me seem to believe that with the proposed setup, 300 hp is a possibility. ive got somebody else telling me that ill a 12+:1 cr, MASSIVE cams, a stroker crank, the whole engine built like a race car, and some other shit that makes me go .

Hites

so is 300 hp with this setup a definite possibility?

proaudio22

The tq convertor isn't the problem. It's the clutch packs in all of the gears.

I would guess that 300hp is possible, but I still think it's silly. If you are building a wrecked car, go buy a wrecked CL-S and fix it up instead. Intake & Headers = 300hp. Much less work.

Hites

never said the car was wrecked. it has dent in the passenger door, a little wear on the usual spots on the drivers seat, and the engine has high miles; thats all. heck, the engine runs great (oil changed every 3k-4k miles and all service done by the dealership) and if/when i need a new engine, i can get a new one and have it installed for about $1k (ill probably go ahead and buy a much newer engine then put all of the aftermarket parts on it to make it simpler than taking out the current engine then swapping in parts to just have to take them out and put them in another engine. so i should just forget about the torque converter and get a pts kit, such as the one offered by level 10 here: http://www.levelten.com/store/import..._acura_pts.htm ,correct? or should i get both to maintain reliability?

baka_t

Are you planning to build a N/A car?? If not id look into building the motor for nos or to be supercharged....Id look into nos if money is an issue and the power will be on tap whenever you need it just opt for the remote bottle opener..All depends on the amount of money you want to spend if i got my cl for that cheap id have a awsome supercharged setup goin. And build the trans or swap for the type-s trans i think one guy has done it..

btw..that trans rebuild kit looks like it work and you would be able to mod the hell out of that motor.

cldriver

For CL-S cams, you need to have a notch(for tdc sensing I believe) machined into the cam. Other than that its a direct fit.

Hites

i guess you could say im building an na car; id just call it suping up a car, though. im not looking to be a dyno queen or track monster. not a big fan of nitrous; would rather have forged internals that maintain reliability while they increase power. you seen how much the only sc setup for a cl runs (comptech; $7k for just 60 hp); thats twice the price of a jackson racing setup.

got any pics of this notch? diagrams of where it is?

proaudio22

What are you talking about? Comptech doesn't even make a s/c kit for the 3.0CL. They make one for the V6 Accord that has the same engine, and you can make it fit in a CL. Both that kit and the kit for the second gen CL are only $4K. Yes, it only makes blah blah HP. Well look at the curves man, it really smooths out the HP and builds all the way to redline, instead of to 5500 like NA. You can build the engine all you want, but your peak will still be at 5500 or so. Just the nature of the block. HP isn't everything either, really TQ is much more important and that's where the s/c shines. It may not make tons of tq or hp but it makes both down low all the way up to redline. I wouldn't be suprised if a s/c car with only 250hp has no problem keeping up with your car with 300hp. Everyone thinks that peak HP is everything, IT AIN'T SHIT!

This is why I said get a diff project car. Get a 240sx and drop a SR20DET engine in it - 400whp with some easy upgrades. Tons of much easier ways to make a fast car with less headache. I don't mean to be a ball buster but I mean come on man...

Hites

where could i get one for $4k? know where i might get a used one? what would i have to do to make it fit in a 3.0 cl? isnt 5500 rpm the redline because its an auto tranny? i thought that a lower hp na car has the potential to beat a higher hp boosted car; thats what ive always been told. why would i get a 240sx? my friend isnt selling a 240sx. how would swapping in a different engine cause LESS headaches? you think i could make a nice, reliable 400 whp 240sx for under $8k? tell me how.

proaudio22

They are everywhere for $4K brand new, that's list price. Check out www.comptechusa.com and look under the V6 Accord section, then s/c. I'm not sure what exactly has to be done, Jens (an Acura Tech that post here, super guy) did one before, I'm sure you could ask him for details.

Redline is at 6300 RPM, haven't you been in the car!?! PEAK HP is around 5500 RPM, then it drops off. Auto tranny has nothing to do with it. I've gate shifted my car past redline to almost 7K, not sure where fuel cutoff is.

Don't listen to people talk about cars. Only trust what you know for fact yourself or what has proof (dynos, etc). You can't say for certain which has more power (Naturaly Aspirated or Forced Induction). It all depends on the engine. In the case of the J30 in the 3.0 CL, the S/C makes awesome low end power, which will scoot you off the line. Noone has built a J30 like you plan to but I fear it wouldn't last long w/ the high compression. I'd rather keep the low compression and add the supercharger. Then change to a high boost pulley. You could have the block done over with forged internals for reliability if you wanted, but keep the low compression, maybe even lower it. All this requires tuning tho to make it nice and sound - and reliable.

I'm pretty sure it would be easy to make a 240sx such as that for under $8K. You swap engines b/c the engine I mentioned is already build nicely and turbocharged.

However, it was just an example. All I'm saying is that while this is all fine and dandy - and you'd have a kick ass CL - you may want to do your research before you get all hot in the pants about it. If I wanted a kick ass fast as hell car, I would not have bought my CL. I would have bought my friend's 95 Eclipse. He was selling the car for $2500, dynoed at 280whp, that's about 320 at the crank. But the car isn't a nice daily driver, has no nice options, and wouldn't be that reliable in the long run. Fast/powerful and reliable are sorta oxymorons unless you are talking about a Supra. I bought my CL b/c it's a very nice daily driver with all the options and has decent power. I'm fairly certain I can get around 200whp with just bolt on mods and still keep it reliable.

Bottom line: While the CL might be a nicer daily driver than one of these other cars, I think it will be more trouble than it's worth. I don't think the engine will last that long with that kind of high compression. The transmission will prob poop out on you. It probably will be more of a pain in the ass than anything. It'd be much easier to get a diff car that mods easier and makes more power and has a manual transmission.

jtothees

baka_t

Id work on gettin a new more stable trans or rebuild yours if the car has high miles thats what would probally go 1st. Get the trans to handle any mods you are planning on doing then work on the motor. The car was a steal...even supercharged and nos-ed it still would be less then i paid for my car. Id talk to a honda tech on what mods would be worth it. There the ones that really would know.

Hites

hey, any of you guys want that cl? ill have to jack up the price of course to make some money out of it though :P. just shoot me an offer; im willing to deliver up to 300 miles for an almost insignificant fee.

im thinkin about getting out of hondas for awile, but im still staying with a super reliable brand: toyota. no, im not getting a supra! that thing wouldnt last a second with all of the snow here in ohio. ive found a 92 celica alltrac with only 106k miles (less than my teg) for $5k that i might be able to nab for $4800; thats a car that i can easily drive all year round and have fun in during the summer; theyre also surprisingly comfortable from what the alltrac owners have told me. ive always wanted a compact car with awd and fi, but ive tended to shun subaru due to their poor quality in the early to mid 90s. 200hp and awd in a small car is enough for me, so ill just do some minor modding (wheels, tires, suspension, i/e, maybe a boost controller and an apexi vafc).

you are right about dsms being unreliable; i have a friend who seems to be CONSTANTLY doing repairs to his and everything under his hood is mostly stock.

so... any of you guys know the hot forum for toyotas? toyota-tech.com? :P