Yeah... i did my timing belt and water pump, etc etc.... what a pain in the ass. I started at 9 this morning and took two hours for lunch, took me until 5:30 to get it done. Would it be worth it to write up a DIY for this, or is everyone pretty familiar with it. I work as a mechanic at a porsche race shop, I never appreciated them until I went to do this today. WHY THE FUCK ARE THERE LIKE 18 BOLTS HOLDING THE FUCKING TIMING BELT COVERS ON?!!?! what the hell is that? Also, I figured out a cool way to saftey wire the timing belt tensioner so it stays compressed without the tool, really easy. I dont own a 3/4 inch impact wrench so I had to break down and do the breaker bar and starter to get the pulley off the crank, I was REALLY skeptical of doing it but I called a guy at the local independent honda shop, he said he has gone through like 15 of the factory tools to hold the motor while you break that bolt loose, and now he just does the breaker bar to loosen it. I didnt do the valve adjustment yet, I guess thats monday's project. I let it go to 122,000 miles, bad I know, but the belt looked like brand new. I did notice that the serpintine idler pulley has some play in it, And I noticed that the top motor mount was broken, so.... I guess I will order those monday. If anyone is worried about doing this... it really isnt hard at all. The worst part is getting the freakin cover bolts out. I do have a question, I havent looked at the manual yet, how hard is getting the valve covers off? They look tight with the intake manifold. I have heard of people putting an Unorthodox Racing Crank Pulley on with favorable results, what is everyones thoughts on that? Ok take care everyone.

Ryan

 

Damn man, sounds like a hell of a project.

UR pullies are the shizzle

 

i heard something like 20 blah blah horse with that... I assume its more like 5 or something... anyone have any real data or seat of the pants experience on a 3.0?

 

yeah I do, I installed the UR crank pulley on my car and HOLY SHIT!!! when they say 20 hp, they aren't joking. maybe not 20 whp, but at least 20 crank hp.

I'd say after I installed my UR pully it felt like the car had lost several hundred pounds as it seemed to pull so much easier.

I agree with you about those goddamn tming belt cover bolts, pieces of SHIT!!! It tooke me almost 3 days because of those goddam bolts and almost 2 hours trying to get the damn battery bolt to hold the tensioner. that was installing my cams though, not just changing the timing belt.

can you take a pic of your "broken motor mount"? I want to see how it brakes.

My car really shakes at idle when it's in gear and it's bugging the crap out of me, and I'm curious if it's the motor mounts.

 

dude yeah i read about that stupid shit with the batter bolt thing... what the fuck were they talking about... i just took it out of the car, put it in the vice, undid the bolt at the back, added a couple of drops of hydralic oil to it and cranked it back in, and then safety wired the the tip down. Once I did that I just bolted it back in the car and did everything else and had my buddy hold the tensioner pulley against the belt while I cut the wire and let it pop out against the tensioner pulley arm thing. Worked super duper, didnt grind anything down or whatever the hell they were talking about. I almost want to do this again and take pictures so there is a nice DIY for the forum. The way I did everything it was friggin easy, just cut up my arms with all the damn lil crap cover bolts. BASTARDS! Ok cool, what did you pay for the pullies, whats the good source, etc etc. Do you have to get a new serpentine belt? Ok thanks.

Ryan

 

yeah you need a new accesery belt and a new power steering belt.

I got the crank and alternater pullies used from a member on v6p.net who was installing a supercharger so he needed stock sized pullies.

is yoru motor mount cracked or falling apart or straight up broken?

 

well it was the one on the side of the motor on top, i guess it just controls movement left and right as you stand in front of the car looking at the motor. The metal in the mount forms a V, and the rubber was coming unbonded on the side of the V closest to the engine. I think its actually fine, as I dont think it is supporting the engine in a verticle manner.

Ryan