ideal suspension setup?
#1
~ The Endless One ~
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ideal suspension setup?
I like the ride comfort of my stock suspension. I just want to lower it without sacrificing too much comfort. Don't really care for performance since I accepted that my car isn't a sports car, but instead a cruiser. Can I just keep my stock shocks and throw on a decent set of springs? And for springs, would you recommend Eibachs, Neuspeeds, Teins? I will also be throwing on 18"s after winter. Help.
#2
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To keep stock shocks you won't be able to lower it more than 2".
I have Eibach pro kits (1.3" i think)and I love the way they ride. and no need for
camber kit. I think the difference is noticable(looks, ride) but still cumfy
I have Eibach pro kits (1.3" i think)and I love the way they ride. and no need for
camber kit. I think the difference is noticable(looks, ride) but still cumfy
#3
Originally Posted by sumdumguy
To keep stock shocks you won't be able to lower it more than 2".
I have Eibach pro kits (1.3" i think)and I love the way they ride. and no need for
camber kit. I think the difference is noticable(looks, ride) but still cumfy
I have Eibach pro kits (1.3" i think)and I love the way they ride. and no need for
camber kit. I think the difference is noticable(looks, ride) but still cumfy
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#8
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Originally Posted by VB87
so with the Eibach pro kit, you don't have to change the stock shocks?
endless...they don't sag after a while. eibach gaurantees that. and I'm not positive about
the 1.7" drop if you'll need a camber kit.
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then I think your set. and I think you can get some for anywhere from $180
to $225. depends where you get em. I got mine on ebay...$177+shipping
to $225. depends where you get em. I got mine on ebay...$177+shipping
#11
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i can get Teins for $200 CDN over here...
they're not Tein SS tho and i doubt i will need anything that nice for my application...
they're not Tein SS tho and i doubt i will need anything that nice for my application...
#13
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Originally Posted by endlessdragon
so with either u don't need a camber kit right?
Alot of times you wont, but there are exceptions. Also, if you are thinking about getting shocks, or worried that you may have to replace them sometime soon- I would just do it with the spring installation. Labor is expensive, do them both at the same time.
#14
2.2CL owner
Originally Posted by moforose3.0
Alot of times you wont, but there are exceptions. Also, if you are thinking about getting shocks, or worried that you may have to replace them sometime soon- I would just do it with the spring installation. Labor is expensive, do them both at the same time.
#17
Unless the aftermarket springs are the same length and same spring rate, you should upgrade your shocks. Since obviously lowering springs are not, I suggest you look into matching a new set of springs with shocks to handle the lowered ride height and increased spring rates safely.
#19
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heres the deal guys.........{pre note: every car is different so you should get an alignment and talk to the technitian about camber kits anyway} BUT, if you do prokits (1.5" drop that doesnt sag) you wont need a camber kit..... stock shocks will work but an aftermarket shock is always better... nuespeed or eibach sportline (1.7" or lower) will need a camber kit.... they do make camber kits for the back that are pretty expensive.... more than likely you wont need camber in the back as itll be within (or really close to) stock spec's..... that should answer everything
oh- prices---
eibach proki or sportlines or nuespeeds or whatever (springs in general)
used- which doesnt matter cause springs are fine new or used- 100 bucks
new- about 200
shocks- kyb agx / tokico adj- 300 for all 4
by them new, cause then youve got lifetime warranty
ingalls camber kit- about 200, used 100- also doesnt matter, new or used.... urathane bushing last a longgg time......
labor- dont know, did it all myself.... very easy to do, but i wouldnt pay more than 300 to have all of it installed.... and definetly do it all at once if you plan on paying someone.... and again. get an alignment about 2 weeks after you install (if all your stuff is new) cause they will sag a bit and "settle".... so wait till its settled and get an alignment.....
oh- prices---
eibach proki or sportlines or nuespeeds or whatever (springs in general)
used- which doesnt matter cause springs are fine new or used- 100 bucks
new- about 200
shocks- kyb agx / tokico adj- 300 for all 4
by them new, cause then youve got lifetime warranty
ingalls camber kit- about 200, used 100- also doesnt matter, new or used.... urathane bushing last a longgg time......
labor- dont know, did it all myself.... very easy to do, but i wouldnt pay more than 300 to have all of it installed.... and definetly do it all at once if you plan on paying someone.... and again. get an alignment about 2 weeks after you install (if all your stuff is new) cause they will sag a bit and "settle".... so wait till its settled and get an alignment.....
#20
Suzuka Master
they got a pro kit on ebay right now for like 80 bucks i think. its used, but i bought mine used and they were basically almost brand new, no problems. definitely check out ebay, i saw a lot of pro kits for sale, new and used.
#21
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by d5c5b
heres the deal guys.........{pre note: every car is different so you should get an alignment and talk to the technitian about camber kits anyway} BUT, if you do prokits (1.5" drop that doesnt sag) you wont need a camber kit..... stock shocks will work but an aftermarket shock is always better... nuespeed or eibach sportline (1.7" or lower) will need a camber kit.... they do make camber kits for the back that are pretty expensive.... more than likely you wont need camber in the back as itll be within (or really close to) stock spec's..... that should answer everything
oh- prices---
eibach proki or sportlines or nuespeeds or whatever (springs in general)
used- which doesnt matter cause springs are fine new or used- 100 bucks
new- about 200
shocks- kyb agx / tokico adj- 300 for all 4
by them new, cause then youve got lifetime warranty
ingalls camber kit- about 200, used 100- also doesnt matter, new or used.... urathane bushing last a longgg time......
labor- dont know, did it all myself.... very easy to do, but i wouldnt pay more than 300 to have all of it installed.... and definetly do it all at once if you plan on paying someone.... and again. get an alignment about 2 weeks after you install (if all your stuff is new) cause they will sag a bit and "settle".... so wait till its settled and get an alignment.....
oh- prices---
eibach proki or sportlines or nuespeeds or whatever (springs in general)
used- which doesnt matter cause springs are fine new or used- 100 bucks
new- about 200
shocks- kyb agx / tokico adj- 300 for all 4
by them new, cause then youve got lifetime warranty
ingalls camber kit- about 200, used 100- also doesnt matter, new or used.... urathane bushing last a longgg time......
labor- dont know, did it all myself.... very easy to do, but i wouldnt pay more than 300 to have all of it installed.... and definetly do it all at once if you plan on paying someone.... and again. get an alignment about 2 weeks after you install (if all your stuff is new) cause they will sag a bit and "settle".... so wait till its settled and get an alignment.....
i got a question about tokicos lifetime warranty. what does it cover? if the shocks die, they replace them? or if they malfunction only?
#22
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no, theyll replace em.... except youve gotta take em out.... chill with your car on blocks untill the new ones come and then put em in.... and how bad does that suck?! bad!
#23
I hope your not in a rush for the springs. I'm definitely goin back to Seattle next weekend on Nov 19. So i'll bring my EIBACH's back to Van city. We can hook up during that week if you want them.
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Originally Posted by azian21485
for the price of tein ss you can do alot better the first time
#28
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same here - i love my Teins - but I'm also sure for the price you must be able to find something else just as nice/better. And I have an awful squeak from one of my poly bushings in my front right camber kit - annoying as hell
#29
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Originally Posted by ATLcl98
same here - i love my Teins - but I'm also sure for the price you must be able to find something else just as nice/better. And I have an awful squeak from one of my poly bushings in my front right camber kit - annoying as hell
#30
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If I had my option (I've gone through probably 8 or so different suspension setups) to do it all over
It'd be the teins, but i'd have them make a custom spring rate to make up for the added weight of the CL over the accord.
It'd be the teins, but i'd have them make a custom spring rate to make up for the added weight of the CL over the accord.
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Originally Posted by CLpower
If I had my option (I've gone through probably 8 or so different suspension setups) to do it all over
It'd be the teins, but i'd have them make a custom spring rate to make up for the added weight of the CL over the accord.
It'd be the teins, but i'd have them make a custom spring rate to make up for the added weight of the CL over the accord.
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Originally Posted by baka_t
I've been through 3 different suspension setup's, and if I could of done it all over again, I would of went with the tein's in the 1st place.
Yup, that be the ultimate way to go, all you would need is 14kg/mm 12kg/mm
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Originally Posted by azian21485
what other types of setups have you been through..asking clpower also
going this route forces you to get the shocks revalved and this starts adding up to even alot better options than the ss setup
going this route forces you to get the shocks revalved and this starts adding up to even alot better options than the ss setup
No need to get the strut body revalved, because the travel will be better with the higher spring rates.
#34
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Skunk2 sleeves, GC sleeves, Apexi WS, nuespeeds, Suspension Technique Speed Techs, progress, pro kits (my favorite), and now sportlines (prokit wasn't low enough for me)
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even though you guys went through a bunch of setups you guys were still either using coilover sleeves with bad shocks or sport springs..comparing this with tein ss is a landslide so i'm not surprised with your opinions..but there are better setups out there
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
there's alot more to proper shock setup than travel. Ever use high spring rates on a stock shock? it'll bounce like crazy. why? because the shock isn't correclty valved to dampen the spring rates. The pressure inside the shock can't slow down the piston with enough force to prevent the spring from oscillating. running too high of a spring rate on a shock will have this effect. I remember reading on tein's website that the highest the front rates can go is 8k and rear is 6 k or something like that but don't quote me this is all from my poor memory
if you are really worried about travel and the shock bottoming out, get the shocks shortened for more travel
i'm just speaking from my general knowledge..if you're running those rates (which are pretty high rates..i'm running 10k front and 12k rear...this is way overkill for a street driven car but i take the scrafice for autocrossing) and aren't having any problems, then by all means keep the setup...most off the shelf shocks will need to be revalved to run 14k rates including koni yellows (although a trusted rep said they can handle up to 1000lb spring rates but for how long? no one knows =) )
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
I've had prokits, skunk2 sleve coilovers with kyb shocks, and my current setup, lightspeed springs (same as sportline drop wise) with kyb shocks on 4/8 dampening.
No need to get the strut body revalved, because the travel will be better with the higher spring rates.
No need to get the strut body revalved, because the travel will be better with the higher spring rates.
if you are really worried about travel and the shock bottoming out, get the shocks shortened for more travel
i'm just speaking from my general knowledge..if you're running those rates (which are pretty high rates..i'm running 10k front and 12k rear...this is way overkill for a street driven car but i take the scrafice for autocrossing) and aren't having any problems, then by all means keep the setup...most off the shelf shocks will need to be revalved to run 14k rates including koni yellows (although a trusted rep said they can handle up to 1000lb spring rates but for how long? no one knows =) )
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Originally Posted by azian21485
even though you guys went through a bunch of setups you guys were still either using coilover sleeves with bad shocks or sport springs..comparing this with tein ss is a landslide so i'm not surprised with your opinions..but there are better setups out there
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
there's alot more to proper shock setup than travel. Ever use high spring rates on a stock shock? it'll bounce like crazy. why? because the shock isn't correclty valved to dampen the spring rates. The pressure inside the shock can't slow down the piston with enough force to prevent the spring from oscillating. running too high of a spring rate on a shock will have this effect. I remember reading on tein's website that the highest the front rates can go is 8k and rear is 6 k or something like that but don't quote me this is all from my poor memory
if you are really worried about travel and the shock bottoming out, get the shocks shortened for more travel
i'm just speaking from my general knowledge..if you're running those rates (which are pretty high rates..i'm running 10k front and 12k rear...this is way overkill for a street driven car but i take the scrafice for autocrossing) and aren't having any problems, then by all means keep the setup...most off the shelf shocks will need to be revalved to run 14k rates including koni yellows (although a trusted rep said they can handle up to 1000lb spring rates but for how long? no one knows =) )
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
there's alot more to proper shock setup than travel. Ever use high spring rates on a stock shock? it'll bounce like crazy. why? because the shock isn't correclty valved to dampen the spring rates. The pressure inside the shock can't slow down the piston with enough force to prevent the spring from oscillating. running too high of a spring rate on a shock will have this effect. I remember reading on tein's website that the highest the front rates can go is 8k and rear is 6 k or something like that but don't quote me this is all from my poor memory
if you are really worried about travel and the shock bottoming out, get the shocks shortened for more travel
i'm just speaking from my general knowledge..if you're running those rates (which are pretty high rates..i'm running 10k front and 12k rear...this is way overkill for a street driven car but i take the scrafice for autocrossing) and aren't having any problems, then by all means keep the setup...most off the shelf shocks will need to be revalved to run 14k rates including koni yellows (although a trusted rep said they can handle up to 1000lb spring rates but for how long? no one knows =) )
I remember reading on tein's website that the highest the front rates can go is 8k and rear is 6 k or something like that but don't quote me this is all from my poor memory
Also, you setup makes no sence, being that the cl's weight distrobution is more frontal heavy, but you are running the higher rate springs in the rear.
Kyb's are not bad shocks, heck their made by koni, which your ranting and raving about.
I hope if your this serious about your suspension, you upgraded your sway bars, and fully braced all the towers, and lower tie. If not, your suspension setup is worthless.
#38
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Originally Posted by azian21485
even though you guys went through a bunch of setups you guys were still either using coilover sleeves with bad shocks or sport springs..comparing this with tein ss is a landslide so i'm not surprised with your opinions..but there are better setups out there
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
)
first one that comes to mind is koni yellows + ground control (or any coilover with proper spring perch) with custom rates from either hypercoil or eibach ers (eibach already comes with ground control)...proven setup in anything from autocross to road racing
)
Had koni's w/ GC's that were spec'd for my car. Was back in 99 when they were new. Didn't like them. Handled good, not the best, car drove rough.
Autocross and road racing isn't what we are all about. Driveability and comfort is also a big concern of mine, and that's comming from someone w/ a 3.0 and sportlines.
#40
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Originally Posted by baka_t
Also, you setup makes no sence, being that the cl's weight distrobution is more frontal heavy, but you are running the higher rate springs in the rear.
.
.