I need help with my K-sport coils ASAP!!!
#1
I need help with my K-sport coils ASAP!!!
I decided I want to lower my car just a little bit more but now I got the wheel off and I don't know which bolt to spin to lower it? Here's a pic I need to know which orange bolt to spin to lower it?
#3
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If you don't know what you're doing, you should probably go back to the shop you had them raise it at.
The bolt you want is the bolt that sits with the spring, the spindle piece, you have to crank that to make the spring go up and down. The orange piece attached to the black spring You gotta screw the first spindle nut down first to get it out of the way, then crank the one on the spring
The bolt you want is the bolt that sits with the spring, the spindle piece, you have to crank that to make the spring go up and down. The orange piece attached to the black spring You gotta screw the first spindle nut down first to get it out of the way, then crank the one on the spring
#4
Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
If you don't know what you're doing, you should probably go back to the shop you had them raise it at.
The bolt you want is the bolt that sits with the spring, the spindle piece, you have to crank that to make the spring go up and down. The orange piece attached to the black spring You gotta screw the first spindle nut down first to get it out of the way, then crank the one on the spring
The bolt you want is the bolt that sits with the spring, the spindle piece, you have to crank that to make the spring go up and down. The orange piece attached to the black spring You gotta screw the first spindle nut down first to get it out of the way, then crank the one on the spring
#6
Well I tried again what black said and all the does is loosen the pressure against the spring. I'm gonna try taking of that bold at the bottom which should allow me to screw the orange shaft. If it doesn't then I put it back on no big deal.
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#8
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Dont do anything with the two that are together. the only thing you do with those is make sure they are resting against the spring so the spring isnt loose. to adjust the height you loosen the one all the way at the bottom against the orange tube. loosen that then screw the orange tube to the desired height. Ksport recommends taking the whole shock off the car to do this.
#9
HAHA, BITCHES!! I was right!! Damn noobs don't know anything!! I have to loosen the spindle all the way at the bottom of the pic and then underneath that is a 14mm bolt (not pictured) which is used to clamp the coil to the axle once I loosened the clamp I was able to spin the orange shaft at the bottom up which lowered it. Then I just tightened the clamp and the spindle and I'm good to go!!
#10
Originally Posted by civic_slayer
Dont do anything with the two that are together. the only thing you do with those is make sure they are resting against the spring so the spring isnt loose. to adjust the height you loosen the one all the way at the bottom against the orange tube. loosen that then screw the orange tube to the desired height. Ksport recommends taking the whole shock off the car to do this.
#11
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Yeah I thought that was you, its about time you got everything put on the car is looking good. Yeah I decided since I drive my car so much right now and i dont have rims it isnt worth being that low right now so I raised it back up. So I dont have that problem anymore. As far as I know you just have to live with the problem or else air hammer the inner fender where it hits. Sorry for not being able to help ya out, I just got to busy. Take it easy
#12
HEy civic_slayer how did you loosen the bolt that connects the coil to the axle in the rear? I'm have some problems with that, I got a 17mm wrench on one side and a 14mm on the other and I got them both going in their respecitive counter clockwise motion, but it won't budge. I guess I'm just weak. I mean everyone here knows I'm training to be a cage fighter but, I guess it ain't helping. So guess I'll just lower the front for now. Face down ass up FTW!!
#13
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muscle for the win and it helps to have a 6" extension on the 17mm side so you can put more force on the wrench. Just loosen that side the 14mm side is to much of a pain to do. And it shouldnt be that tight only 47flbs
#14
Originally Posted by civic_slayer
muscle for the win and it helps to have a 6" extension on the 17mm side so you can put more force on the wrench. Just loosen that side the 14mm side is to much of a pain to do. And it shouldnt be that tight only 47flbs
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theres essentially two ways to lower it. some coilovers (like teins) only had the two top collars. You would adj the height by spinning those up or down.
now these have 3, which is arguably better because you can keep the same preload on the springs and adj the actual strut body. But you have to do this while the suspension is off, or semi off. The way I preloaded the springs was from way excelerate told me, to hand tighten the top collar, then give the 2nd collar 5 full turns. Then adj the strut body as I see fit.
theres soo much thread in that pic on my rears all THREE collars are touching and its still not low enough for me.
now these have 3, which is arguably better because you can keep the same preload on the springs and adj the actual strut body. But you have to do this while the suspension is off, or semi off. The way I preloaded the springs was from way excelerate told me, to hand tighten the top collar, then give the 2nd collar 5 full turns. Then adj the strut body as I see fit.
theres soo much thread in that pic on my rears all THREE collars are touching and its still not low enough for me.
#16
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by KLepTo
theres essentially two ways to lower it. some coilovers (like teins) only had the two top collars. You would adj the height by spinning those up or down.
now these have 3, which is arguably better because you can keep the same preload on the springs and adj the actual strut body. But you have to do this while the suspension is off, or semi off. The way I preloaded the springs was from way excelerate told me, to hand tighten the top collar, then give the 2nd collar 5 full turns. Then adj the strut body as I see fit.
theres soo much thread in that pic on my rears all THREE collars are touching and its still not low enough for me.
now these have 3, which is arguably better because you can keep the same preload on the springs and adj the actual strut body. But you have to do this while the suspension is off, or semi off. The way I preloaded the springs was from way excelerate told me, to hand tighten the top collar, then give the 2nd collar 5 full turns. Then adj the strut body as I see fit.
theres soo much thread in that pic on my rears all THREE collars are touching and its still not low enough for me.
#18
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just fyi, you have three rings. The top two rings are to adjust the height via the spring (i.e lowering the spring to lower the whole body of the car). Keep in mind that the ksports springs (i'm assuming for yours as well) are very short, so you don't have much room to adjust via spring before your shock compression has nowhere to go anywhere.
That's what that bottom 3rd ring is for... it's a more involved process cause you have to pretty much take the shocks off of the supports, and you can actually screw the orange shock body (which is hollow) up or down in order to raise or lower your car.
With these coilovers, you're supposed to have pre-loaded your height with the shock body (the 2nd thing I was referring to) so that you only have to make minute adjustments with the top two rings...
extra note:
if u can take it to a good corner balance guy (depending on where you are); I know they should charge about $200 or so to pretty much do ALL the work for you and give u an alignment.
Trust me when I say these ksports are a fuckin' pain in the ass to adjust compared to the tein basics lol (having to adjust height via shockbody is annoying as shit), and the design of the grooves on the ksports is effin' terrible.
If anyone can tell from the picture, the groove pattern is alternating square and round, so there's only so many places the coilover wrenches can actualyl "bite" down and let u adjust. :angry:
That's what that bottom 3rd ring is for... it's a more involved process cause you have to pretty much take the shocks off of the supports, and you can actually screw the orange shock body (which is hollow) up or down in order to raise or lower your car.
With these coilovers, you're supposed to have pre-loaded your height with the shock body (the 2nd thing I was referring to) so that you only have to make minute adjustments with the top two rings...
extra note:
if u can take it to a good corner balance guy (depending on where you are); I know they should charge about $200 or so to pretty much do ALL the work for you and give u an alignment.
Trust me when I say these ksports are a fuckin' pain in the ass to adjust compared to the tein basics lol (having to adjust height via shockbody is annoying as shit), and the design of the grooves on the ksports is effin' terrible.
If anyone can tell from the picture, the groove pattern is alternating square and round, so there's only so many places the coilover wrenches can actualyl "bite" down and let u adjust. :angry:
#19
So I went to the store today and got some PB Blaster to loosen the bolts in the rear and was able to lower the car. Don't really know if the PB helped cause I still had to come up with a crazy contraption to loosen the bolts. here's pics:
In the first pic you'll notice I had to lock the wrench that was on the 14mm bolt in place by using the socket wrench to prevent it's movement.
2nd pic is from underneath, that's the bolt I had to remove so I could easily spin the orange shaft up. Now as I type this I wonder if it was necessary at all to remove the bolt, but I think in doing so made the part of lowering the car easier and I think it's what K-sport recommends anyways.
3rd pic is of the big torque wrench I had to use (I found my 17mm socket) to loosen the bolt, if you don't have one of these and you work on your car you need to go get one. Either that or air tools, I use this torque wrench all the time now.
And finally I'll end this post with a little 3-wheel motion for you bishes!!
In the first pic you'll notice I had to lock the wrench that was on the 14mm bolt in place by using the socket wrench to prevent it's movement.
2nd pic is from underneath, that's the bolt I had to remove so I could easily spin the orange shaft up. Now as I type this I wonder if it was necessary at all to remove the bolt, but I think in doing so made the part of lowering the car easier and I think it's what K-sport recommends anyways.
3rd pic is of the big torque wrench I had to use (I found my 17mm socket) to loosen the bolt, if you don't have one of these and you work on your car you need to go get one. Either that or air tools, I use this torque wrench all the time now.
And finally I'll end this post with a little 3-wheel motion for you bishes!!
#21
HA!! If I did that then my car would be like those stupid cars scrape the road and shoot sparks all over the place, I don't know what they call that stupid shit, but better not ever see a CL doing that!!
#23
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Originally Posted by KLepTo
my rear is like that and im not shooting sparks all over the place
Wow, I had no idea ksports were such a bitch to adjust, glad I got my tein ss
#24
I have nothing else to compare them too but I didn't think they were hard to adjust, I just had stuck bolt in the back and I had a learing curve since I've never done this before. but I figured it out by myself, so it can't be that hard. Now if I ever want to adjust them again it'll be pretty quick, I just take of the wheel loosen a bolt and spindle and spin the orange shaft, if I'm raising the car I won't have to loosen the spindle. The whole process take about 5-10 minute per wheel. Then once you have the car set to where you like you shouldn't really have to adjust it ever again.
#26
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Originally Posted by civic_slayer
I thought excelerate said that you should leave at least 3 threads between the collars as to not cause any problems. Does anybody know anything about this?
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