horrorfying braking disaster *pics*
#1
horrorfying braking disaster *pics*
i was trying to get the wire loose(circled in red), so the bolts(purple) would fit in.. soooo i thought the wire(circled red) would come loose if i tapped on the gas a bit with the car on and this has happened...
how do i get that cylinder in? i push it in and try twisting it but it doesnt go in... also if someone could look at the first pic and tell me how to get the wire(circled in red) loose so i can connect the bolt... im geussing that is the e brake line?? i moveed the e brake up and down and the line didnt get any looser.. any help would be really helpful right now..
#2
#6
If ebrake was working before, don't mess w/ it. Not necessary to replace pads.
The caliper cylinder must be rotated clockwise to go back into place. A special tool is best bet from you local auto parts store. You can sometimes turn w/ a wide chisel, but it's difficult to turn initially. Get's easier as you
progress.
good luck
The caliper cylinder must be rotated clockwise to go back into place. A special tool is best bet from you local auto parts store. You can sometimes turn w/ a wide chisel, but it's difficult to turn initially. Get's easier as you
progress.
good luck
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#9
ok Johnny...this is what you need to do I was faced with similar situation...now first you need to push the caliper cylinder in now this is not the push type piston this is a push and twist/screw type so you actually need to get a tool that will help you twist& push the piston in...go to pep boys/auto zone and ask them for a Honda/accord rear caliper piston pushing tool and they will help you with the correct one...it basically looks like a small metal cube....
Ok after you have pushed the piston all the way in....disengage the e brake and use brute force and wiggle the bolt in if you can get the first couple of threads in you are set....remember disengage the e brake and then try to align the bolt...it is tough but you should be able to get it in......I was able to it is just a weird angle....I hope you did not touch or mess with the e brake setting.......
Let me know if you have any more question PM me and I will give you my cell # so you can call me and hopefully I will be able to guide you...
good luck...remember you have successfully completely the most difficult task in getting the bolt and bushing out compared to that this is just peanuts.....remember don't try to fight it it will go in....take a break and start fresh It always works for me after some rest and relaxation
Ok after you have pushed the piston all the way in....disengage the e brake and use brute force and wiggle the bolt in if you can get the first couple of threads in you are set....remember disengage the e brake and then try to align the bolt...it is tough but you should be able to get it in......I was able to it is just a weird angle....I hope you did not touch or mess with the e brake setting.......
Let me know if you have any more question PM me and I will give you my cell # so you can call me and hopefully I will be able to guide you...
good luck...remember you have successfully completely the most difficult task in getting the bolt and bushing out compared to that this is just peanuts.....remember don't try to fight it it will go in....take a break and start fresh It always works for me after some rest and relaxation
#10
thanks for the info...
i think i might just order new calipers to save me a pain in the ass.. plus i can paint them.. but befor i do that... is the e brake gona be hard to put on? since you guys say dont mess with the e brake... is there anything wrong with doing what im about to do??
also whenever i change my brakes will i need that piston tool thing? im geussing c clamps wont work since its the twisting caliper type. or maybe it might move it a tiny bit in?
i think i might just order new calipers to save me a pain in the ass.. plus i can paint them.. but befor i do that... is the e brake gona be hard to put on? since you guys say dont mess with the e brake... is there anything wrong with doing what im about to do??
also whenever i change my brakes will i need that piston tool thing? im geussing c clamps wont work since its the twisting caliper type. or maybe it might move it a tiny bit in?
#11
no c clamps dont work......for the rears......my guess is that teh ebrake is self adjusting type so you will have to take a look at it under the arm rest thingy....basically it is juts a cable with some adjustments should not be that tough...going by your skill level of what Ihave seen it should be that difficult at all....remove the center arm rest and you will see all the self adjusting mechanism......yes and I like the idea of getting new calipers but for the rears onour car they are real expensive due to the fact that they have the ebrake mechanism attched try www.rockauto.com they have good deal and shit on there....I just swaped by front rotros and calipers with dual piston caliper and prelude's big rotors...worked like a charm...will post a write up with pics soon...so keep a look out .....
#12
i just got the nut and piston back in... so everything is ok.. i just need to get the brake bleeding done. but since i took the control arm out and re installed it, would i need to get the rotors aligned or anything? also is rotor alignment is the same as wheel alignment? wouldnt want the rear wheels to toe in or toe out..
#14
'99 2.3 CL
I did this on my accord. I considered it impossible to get the piston back in correctly with the dust boot around it. I tried for at least 4 hours until I finally gave up and bought reman'd ones. No special tool that I know of to get it back in.
#15
the rear caliper pistons are push and twist kind,....... kind of like you need to screw them in as you are pushing and that needs a special tool ...if you look at the piston closely it has a horizontal slot you can alos use a real big ass screw drive that can fit that slot and push and screw in at the same time and even that would work......
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