so I just installed my VAFC2 and Im 100% positive I have all the wires soldered to the correct ones and soldered solidly.

I started teh car up after setting the inital settings( vtec type: 1 , cylinders: 6, throttle type: arrow up).

now it seems like the car is running rich as fuck. the car bogs down, isn't nearly as fast as it used to be. exhaust smells almost like pure fuel.

also the rpm readings on the VAFC are like 1000 higher than the readings on the rpm gauge.

any of you all with VAFC's have any idea or experience this before?

what do you v6 guys with the vafc have your settings at?

 

get that sucker tuned.

 

but isn't it supposed to run like stock until you tune it?

 

how long did it take to put it on?

 

I spen about 2 hours soldering the wires. my first soldering

 

Was it used? IF so, the old settings are still set in there. YOu'll have to reset the unit.

 

yeah that's the first thing i thought when I started up and it bogged. I went straight to "initialize" and initialized all settings.

I think it might have to do with the pressure signal. I think it's reading -49 Hg or something like that, ad that doesn't seem right.

 

which reminds me... what sensor no. did you guys with the v6 use for in and out?

 

Sensor number 06 06 same for most hondas.

 

There is a baseline someone came up with I forget who but just search under vafc settings.

 

yeah I got 06 06 on there, well I think I might not have initialized it right. I'll have to try that again since after I initialized it it still stayed at 6 cylinders. Hopefully I will get it figured out tommorow, or I'll haveto take it off and resolder the stock wires.

 

can you hear your vtec kick in? if you dont have it hook up the ecu will be adding the extra fuel for it which would cause the problem. a buddy had that prob. didnt wire wright ran it for 2mth befor he said f-it and took it to the pro's and you can tell the difference.

 

errrr wut you should have done was tune it b4 even starting up...

 

you guys are retards. you can't fucking tune it without starting up the car. I guess none of you even know what "tuning" is.

anyways, for those of you with hooked up VAFC's I'm pretty sure its' teh pressure sensor that's messed up. the rpms are correct now, but the pressure stays at -42 or -43 kPg's the whole time I'm driving. I'll look into it tommorw.

what should it be?

 

don't make me start PMing people that have a vafc to find this stuff out.

 

nevermind guys, I'm a retard. I soldered the pressure sensor wires to the wrong ends of the ECU wire I cut.

I'll be back in about 30 minutes to let you all know if that fixes it, which I'm sureit will.

 

j/k

 

good to know it was just a stupid soldering mistake and not something else. also im curious to know where you mounted it inside your car

 

Which diagram did you use? I used the diagram from v6p.net.

 

sure enough it works fine now. I used the one on v6p.net also, but both the white and yellow wires were so incredibly short that I had to extend them with another wire which was red, so when I soldered those wires I got them switched around by accident.

 

so.. tell us - whats up? How does the car feel? where did you mount it? WE NEED PHO-TOEZ

 

agranado, he won't feel a thing unless he gets it tuned....go get a dyno/tune. well worth the money if you have all yoru basic bolt ons and more.

 

what kind of gains can you expect w/ all the bolt ons except for the light weight crank pulley, (which will destroy your crank bearings by the way)

 

I dunno, probably around 200 whp after all that stuff and a tune.

 

A tuned V-AFC can net you around 10-12whp across the powerband. 200whp is pushing it though with your mods. Most 6th gen AV6 w/ intake, exhaust, headers, pullies, CL-S cams, spark plugs, grounding wires, TB spacer, V-AFC tuned get around 190-195whp. Your car will be quicker for sure though.

Btw, have you install the UR pullies & TB spacer I sold you?

 

no, not yet. I'm gonna wait till I have enough time/money to get everything else installed and do it all at once.

 

crank pulley doesn't really destroy it. I had mine for two years now. alot of people have no problem with it. I got 206 whp with all my stuff.

 

a lot of people over at v6p have had their UR crank pulley for 40k+ miles.

 

had the whole pulley set on the old cL, drove it for like 11k miles, no prob there....

 

sorry bout that. BTW my h22/p28 settings are still in there so you will need to initialize the settings and check all others since init doesnt clear all the settings. Glad to hear its workin for ya.

 

yep, works great, thanks man. I'l go leave ya feedback now too.

 

bitchin

 

do you happen to know what settings initialize doesn't fix? I went through all teh low cam and high cam settings and low and hi throttle settings to make sure there are no fuel adjustments.

also, I'm not completely understanding teh air correction menu's. where its' got NE01 - NE12, are those just the points I can choose to make the fuel corrections at? also there is a low and high for the air correction settings, those are just for the low and high cams right?

 

nevermind, figured it out.