really, really, really sick of my duals. they like half blew today. im not exactly sure what happened, but i cant turn the volume past like 15/35 without them cutting out. they suck anyways, so i want a new sub.

i was looking at getting a jl 12w6v2, and understand that its a loud sub, but was wondering if i should go ported or sealed? and what a good amp might be for that sub, if i were to get it?

 

if I were you, I'd consider an image dynamics sub over the jl

great sq and very good efficiency and works well with small sealed enclosures

if you go with a single sub, I'd say go with a ported enclosure for more output/greater efficiency

as for amps, I'm a sucker for old school high quality amps like xtants and ppi art series, but for just a mono amp anything should work fine so long as the rms numbers are closely matched

 

alright, ill look at image dynamics. what about 10w7s? jl is just so damn expensive. my friend has two jl 12w3's with a jl500/1 amp, and thats pretty loud, but i want something louder.

 

I haven't got my setup together but from what I have researched, just get one good sub with a ported box. Always ported for better output.

 

ive heard ported is for sq, and sealed is for efficiency. im looking around, maybe im looking in the wrong places, but i cant find really any image dynamics subs. all i really want is something that doest weigh like 90 lbs, and wont bottom out, and is pretty loud.

 

its just the other way around ^^

ported will typically get you about 3db more output depending on how you're ported

sealed typically yields the tightest bass for sq, while ported is traditionally 'boomy.' But those lines are usually blurred when you get into the higher class subwoofers

w7's are nice, but yes they are spendy

shoulda let me know, I have a DLS audiophile mw12 sub for 250 shipped obo in the classifieds

it's been in systems that have won IASCA sq competitions. double magnets, the sub weighs near 25 pounds. it's definitely serious, but more geared towards incredible sound quality

 

yeah my friends a car toys really put it down nicey when my brother compared my setup to a W7. . . to REALLY run the W7 setup you need a $700 woofer, a $300 box, a $1000 amp and about 500 bucks in dynamat. . . JL is good, but its WAY overpriced

and as for boxes generally its broken down likr this
Sealed = SQ
Ported/vented = balance/more SPL
Bandpass = SPL

ive seen cheapo 10 inchers outpunch dual 12s just because of the box it was in (I think in this case it was a small MTX sub)

ive had experiences with an Alpine LAT, a dual Type-R setup, Polk MOMO, 10W6v2, 10w7, and a POlk SR. . . in the end I like the SQ of my LAT, my friends old dual 10W6v2 was great fun, the 10w7 in the JL HO box (FUCKIN EXPENSIVE) was not bad as well, in terms of balance I loved my friends Polk SR, it was running on only something like 500W on a polk mono-block and in a home-made sealed box, pretty nicethe Type-Rs were also nice for the price. . . and before the LAT I was running a single Polk MOMO 10" and it was pretty damn nice for a single 10 on 400W in a plain old pre-fab box

 

It all depends on what you are going for. What G22 posted above is pretty accurate, different applications for different needs, personally I only do sealed now

 

I got an Alumapro BP12 & it hits pretty clean. But if you want loud I would suggest a Rockford T2 15. Yo this sub is mad loud!!!

 

i tell everyone the same thing, especially you living around here. Hit Cartoys, best buy, Circuit city, etc. to see how the different subs hit. try to stay close to the same amp you'll be using. Sometimes they'll have in box set ups to give you a better idea of what they'll sound like. Then when you've narrowed it down, go online and save a shitload of money.

 

so after a lot of research, im really interest in the new memphis mojo 12(d2), with the kicker zx1000.1 amp. i need specifics on what kind of box id need though. i already got someone who wants to buy my old subs and amp for $50 more than i payed for them, so ive got 200 on the way, but the setup im looking at is likely near 800, so of course, it will be a while. im sure ill end up buying everything piece by piece. luckily i already have an alpine cda 9883 deck with nice rockford fosgate wires.

so exactly what kind of box? ported? bandpass? how many cubic feet? 1 1/2? 2?

 

im trying to find specs on it at Memphis but they lack details, never was a big fan of Memphis anyways. . . any reputable compaly will tell you a recommended box type and air space volume. . . hell POlk gives you complete plans for a box. . . cant find any such thing, so maybe a 1ft^3 sealed, average for a 12, remember as you go to ported that you need more displacement inside the box, then bandpass youre looking at completely enclosing the woofer and building pecifically tuned flow ports. . . thats why bandpass hits so hard, because its tuned to a very narrow band of frequencies. . .

my advice go to a car audio specialist, dont do Best Buy or Circuit city, theyre just kids that dont know jack. . . up in WA id suggest Car Toys, theyre great for it, and theyll love to tell you all about the boxes they can fab up for you

 

sounds good, weve got a car toys about 15 miles from where i live. weve got a magnolia high fi too. anyways, how much do you think a good box for this would cost? i should be getting the amp like this week, the sub will take a while, but id just like to know so i know how much to save.

 

if you go JL your gonna get what you pay for. Quality. At least for the amp part of it. They are one of the only companys that can charge near a dollar per watt, and get away with it, becasue they do it with quality. I love JL amps, as far as im concerned there arent better amps, correct me if im wrong please. But a lot of amps say big big numbers, but are cheap, its becasue they have the ability to hit those watts, but most of the time, they wont.
With JL your gonna get what it says most of the time!


As far as the subs go, i had a 10w3 with a 310 watt amp going to it, and that thing pounded for a single 10. I loved that sub, just make sure that whatever sub you go with, the box is dynamically big enough, when i first got my set up from cartoys, they chose my box, turns out it was too small for the w3 to do its thing, so it kept frying the voice coils,

All of this needs to be kept in mind! hope i helped!

 

definitly get sealed, my box is ported and now i wish i went with the sealed box. ported is louder but sealed hits more crisp......atleast to me.

 

depends, really, if it goes to plain old sealed you can walk away pretty nicely, ported will run a bit more and Bandpass is the most, then you start getting into multiple chambered 4th order and 5th order shit. . . it can be a headache at times. . . thing with CT is that if you take it in they do some R&D on the woofer specs and build the box around plans laid out, so if you buy a woofer theyre familiar with thats a good sized chunk of labor cut out



Alpine PDX > JL Slash series

same good digital switching circuits, uberly efficient and a hell of alot smaller than the equivilant JL amp, take the JL 1000/1 and the Alpine PDX-1.1000. . . you can put 2 of the alpines side-by-side width-wise and be about the equivilant width of the one JL

I ran a JL amp, one of the regular ones, it wasnt bad at all, but then I got Alpine V12s and loved um even more, the digital display made alot of difference to me. . . unfortunately they no longer make the V12s

 

Sealed is the cleanest sound fo sho

 

well the box is definitely the last step, so ive got a ways to go. this little project of mine probably wont be done till early/mid summer, so ive got plenty of time to learn and/or change my mind.

 

i see, yeah, its always best to learn before having to experiment, find friends or something with sound systems. . . demo shit to death. . . do what you must dont be me. . . my current setup is worth about 2500, but through trial and error shit, I spent a good part of 4 grand on stereo shit

 

ditto^^

 

i have a friend with an old memphis mojo twelve in his 4runner, that bangs. i also have a friend with a 12w7 in his ranger, that just hurts. and just lik ive heard happens to w7's. the seal broke on his. the kid with the memphis mojo has had it for like 2 years

 

ive had a couple of subs in my time from cheap pieces of crap like duals to a single jl w7. Also remeber alot of things start to rattle in our cars specially with these louder subs. So make sure to spend some money on dynamat and sound proofing after der installed. My personla preference and the sub ive been using the longest now is my kicker l7 setup with a kicker 1000.1 amp also from kicker. Paid a pretty penny for the setup probably a total of 750 including the dynamating of my entire car trunk and doors and firewall. But i didnt use the real dynamat i bought some cheap shit on ebay for hella cheap worked out pretty good been in the car a year and half now still not peeling. I have the kicker in a ported box with the sub filler(this cotton like shit works pretty good in cleaning up the sound) This combo is powerful enough to shake my houses windows and i dont live in no shabby house neither. You can literally feal the bass down the street. So to end it the biggest thing you can do is get a really good box custom if possible because the better fit the box is to the sub the better it will sound. So even if you buy a shitty sub spend some money in a good box because da same kicker l7 in a differnt ported box gave me very little bass like enough to shake the car but when i looked at the specs needed for the sub and made a box to fit the perfect specs teh volume increase tenfold. So just a lil note its good to get a good sub but unless ur going to competitions u dont need to buy something outragiously expensive just to get the volume and clarity you want.

 

thing with the W7 is that for that money I can get 2 Focal Polyglass subs, of equivilent size there-abouts. . . and itll out bump a W7, easy. . . id look into those, ive demoed them next to a 12W7 and dual 10W6v2s, theirs will pump out bass cleaner and harder, for a 12W7 I can get 2 13" Focals. . . ummm, yeah, or even 1 would do fine and pocket the change towards a better amp

or with it I can get one of these, lets see JL replicate a stacked magnet array like these:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.?fus...roduct_ID=4942

 

ive pretty much crossed a w7 off the list. clean and loud, as long as it lasts. at least from what ive heard/read. im really liking the memphis mojo, but the problem is the new ones just came out so all i have to compare it to is the old ones.

 

JL 10 w3v2 JL 500/1

end of story.

 

I forgot about Focals- good recommendation. Dude, you must be talking about that place by the mall/ Amish store that does tint as well, they are the only ones I know that sell Memphis. I've known a few guys that worked there and they (hte employees) told me they don't particularly like Memphis there, the owner just gets the best margin (profit rate) with Memphis. I have never heard good things comparitively to about Memphis. Don't forget a good amp to push those subs to potential is VERY important. It's like one of these old rich guys you see getting a Porsche and always doing 5 mph under You have to push them to potential. (so don't scrimp on the amp)

 

my friend has two 12w3s in a ported box with a jl 500/1 amp. bumps hard, not hard enough. and as for the amp, ive already got it figured out. im getting a kicker zx1000.1 amp, 1000 watts rms, 2000 max, 2ohms, exact same as the sub. i need to get a capacitor though, i was wondering if i should go with 1 farad or 1.2. rockford fosgate makes a 1 farad i found for $60.

i might have a new problem though. i have 8 awg wire right now, and from what ive read, 1000 watts rms should run 2 awg. would it be alright if i ran it with 8?

 

no way 8 gauge will work for that kind of power. 2 gauge is a solid recommendation. 4 gauge might be pushing it-

 

yeah 1000W on 8 ga. is asking to fry something, 4ga would be OK, but definately 2 or more, id say go 1 or 0ga, that way if you add another 4 channel or something later you can. . . I dunno about the Kicker amp, id definately recommend the Alpine PDX-1.1000, same power, probably a smaller frame, and more efficient. . . you can pull the 1000W at 2 ohms or 4 ohms, since youre looking atrunning a dual 2, that works out great

 

ill make sure to look in to it. i went to car toys this afternoon and talked to a guy about amp choices, he told me how the new alpine amps take a lot less amperage, and how if i go with the kicker i might have to re spool my alternator, and might have to get an optima. i also talked to him about a box, he said it should cost about 200 for a custom box built to my subs specs.

i scavenged my friends totalled dakota and got some 4 awg wire, not sure if it will be long enough, i havent really looked at it, but figure if i cant use it for the amp i can at least use it for the capicitor. even better, i picked up two kickerks6.2 components out of it too. a lot better than stock, but i need new mid ranges quite a bit more.

its safe to say, the project is underway.

 

yeah PDX amps are DAMNED efficient compared to lots of amps out there. . . be cautious of our SHALLOW ASS mounting spots though. . .

 

im thinking about getting the pdx. its quite a bit more, but i dont know if my alternator could handle the kicker. would the capicitor change that?

the pdx's amperage is 80 amps, while the kickers is like 120 or 140 or something

 

ummm. . . no, the capacitor doesnt add anything to the system, it just acts to regulate current to the sub, it cant create anything. . . BTW stock 2.2 alternators generate only somewhere around 80A I believe, so you might need to get it re-wound, or just buy a high output one either way. . . but the ALpine will save the electrical system some grief

 

by that do you mean i wouldnt need to re spool my alternator if i went with the pdx?

 

well you dont need to, im running around 50 amps current draw on mine and its still fine. . . but it never hurts to be safe, regardless of the amp you decide to go with. . . on and my alternator is stock and under-driven

 

My bf has 2 10' Pioneers and a Pioneer Amp, with - I believe- a sealed box. It's hella loud and puts my baby 12' Alpine to shame (but i'm just going for brand and clarity, i don't need to shake the paint off my car )

* Whatever you do, PLEASE get dynamat; don't ghetto out the cl

 

My box has metal around the sub, even though the box itself is ported, and I think it sounds more clear than sealed. (my opinion)

 

Yeah I def. need to dynamat (though I'm thinking of going with eDead) my car, trunk and doors are rattling like crazy, and I haven't even installed the dls components yet

 

my whole car rattles already. mid range covers and doors are both really bad.

 

got my free kicker ks6.2's installed today, minus the tweeters. the tweeters i would have got were messed up, i didnt want them.

i mounted my front plate finally, its on the left on the lower grille. instead of paying too much for a "JDM RELOCATOR!!!" i just went to the hardware store, picked up some tiny l brackets, sheet metal screws, nuts bolts and washers and ended up spending $5.65.

also polished inside and out on my intake and intake manifold.

on top of that all, i ran from the cops today. that was tons of fun. passed an undercover crown vic going 80 in a 25 and booked. scary. bad decision.