Numbers look pretty good to me.

 

<-- definitely called 220whp and 330whp

 

Need some 3.5 cams from CleanCL is what im thinking. Last time my car was in limp mode it would not let me go past 2K when it was warmed up, when it was cold you could, but as soon as it went into closed looped operation 2K was my max.

 

definitely good numbers

 

I beg to differ as Chris would agree those numbers are nothing and don't atually show what his 3.5 can do, he should be getting at least 270whp easy, even with the 3.2 cams. Heck thats what im going for with my 3.2. His torque right now NA is on par with a 3.2 and not a 3.5. His torque on NOS is good but past that you can see how it dives down too much. Anyway good luck with gettign the car back in shape

 

tru, but im sure their is much more potential on that motor..

maybe when them issues are fixed! and have an amazing tune!!!!

 

def gotta fix some issues, but regardless, those are good numbers for WHP especially on a 1st gen CL

 

^^ I don't think it counts as a first gen anymore.

 

I would have to sya, those numbers suck ass. I've seen J32's with just I/H put down 225 with a busted IMRC. There is no way these numbers are accurate. As for being in limp mode and not being able to go past a certain rpm, never heard of that. In limp mode you can still hit redline, but your ecu puts you on a different fuel/timing map to compensate for something going wrong with the car to save the engine.

For a stock CLS 6 to put down 217-219, and to have I/H/E/P/Stroked/ and 2 less pullies than everyone else (no a/c and no ps), and to only get 10whp, is bullshit. I got more than that with the J30 with less mods. (I'm referring to before it was tuned)

 

I would have been happy with 240, but not at all with 229.

 

i agree. didnt u have a misfiring problem when u drove to the all cali meeT?

 

Look at it this way chris, at least it's a start

 

Haha, yea. Everyone thought I had aftermarket cams.

 

I've got to agree with you. There's something seriously wrong right now based on those numbers. Hope you find the root problem. Your motor has tons more potential than what we're seeing so far.

 

It still counts to me

 

That j series definitely has more power than that in it. I wonder what the issue is for you to not be hitting atleast 240

 

Best soultion: Move back to So. Cal so you can tune it here.

 

ya i was expecting alot more..

hopefully you can get the problems sorted out and get that thing running at where it should be

 

If thats all your puttin down, thats a hell of a powerfull 220 horses....

 

thats 220whp, or around 290hp to the crank.

 

more like only 260-270 to the crank, which is why it's so disappointing. the 6MT only has a 15-20% drivetrain loss.

good luck Chris. I hope you can get this figured out without too much hassle. If you've been running the N20 for a awehil already before the dyno I say do a compresssion check. It could have already done it's thing to the cylinders and fucked them or something.

 

Just spoke with the shop. They didn't give me the full run down just yet, because they weren't done with everything just yet. I do have a compression leak as predicted. Now, I'm waiting for the call to see if I was in limp mode, and what codes were being thrown. Told them, if we can get it out of limp mode (if it was on it to begin with), and clear the codes and fix whatever caused the check engine light, to go ahead and throw it back on the dyno today. So just waiting on that 2nd call. I'll keep you guys updated. But if I have to change my head gaskets, I'll be the guinea pig for the custom cams. Might as well, since it'll be taken apart again...

 

Good luck, hope everything goes smoothly for you.

 

Pretty funny how I smoked my friends' cousins' stock Evo back in Cali with all these issues, lol. Can't wait to see how it feels once I fix it, AGAIN. I'll keep you guys updated. Still haven't received my 2nd call. I'm kind of happy. Everytime there is a problem, it's just an opportunity to make it better/faster...

 

Thats the way to do it, take it in stride. This isn't nearly as bad as what you had to go through for the swap itself. Chris do you have a oil catch tank?

 

They're having issues figuring out the wiring. They just took a break, and will tackle it the old way. By busting out the wiring diagrams, and figuring out what wires do what, and then make a female plug to hook up the obd2 scanner to it.

And to answer your question, no, I don't have a oil catch can. What I do want is a baffle oil pan. Great for road racing, but I need to find out if ours are one to begin with.

 

Im pretty sure we have some baffling, just get a dry sump system. Damn we really need a catch tank for that oil that we keep getting recirculated into the engine.

 

Who here has seen that track Odyssey Van out in Japan. I want it's engine!

Anyways, it was the very last car they showed. It was for only about 20 seconds. Here's the vid for you guys

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lLjC5Fhnmw

 

Fuck! Blown engine pretty much. Piston rings on fudged on cylinder #5 and 6 due to the nitrous. Head gasket apparently lifted and caused for the coolant to spew out during the dyno. They a 2nd test, a more accurate compression test, and they told me the figures over the phone. Not good at all. Cylinder 1 and 2 were cool. But it just gets worse down the line. I'll show you guys the numbers when I get home after going to the shop.

Anyways, they leave for a track event the next few days. But, I asked them how much for a rebuild, and he replied with "I'll build you an engine that can withstand up to 700hp, blue printed and balanced, and handle the nitrous all day long". He just wants me to go with a direct port with the next set up. The shop can't take my car in though, because they don't have space for it. But I told him I could pull the engine out myself, and hand it over to him. He agreed, and now all I'm waiting on is on a quote.

We'll see what happens. I didn't plan on building my engine till next summer. But now I'll think about what I'm going to do first. I guess I'll stop beating on it for now. DOWNTIME AGAIN!

 

I'll change the head gaskets on my own, and have them do another complete leak down compression test. If I don't like the numbers, then I guess it'll be time for another rebuild.

 

Build it to heaven Chris and don't look back.

The specs of that Odyssey is pretty much what you were looking for right? Around 3000lbs and 400ps ~400hp

That motor must be NA since I don't see a forced induction setup making that little hp.

 

The numbers are as follows for cylinders 1-6 for compression:

235, 225, 215, 210, 160, 150.

Leak down test as follows:

2%, 27%, 36%, 30%, 83%, 75%

Oh, and my code was nothing more than just a bad o2 sensor (bank 1).

 

you need to do something about the excess heat build up. the newer 3.5L motors acura put out have oil squirters to cool the pistons. when you pull the motor again you should get the crankshaft knife edged, dipped, and oil pathways widened. you should also widen the oil pathways on the block, dip the skirts of the pistons, and the domes. that should drop friction and temps.

 

The only thing I'm doing for that right now is running without a thermostat. But yes, I have killer plans for the engine next summer. Just not to sure if I want to do it right now. I had it all planned out. But now, I don't know what to concentrate on...

If I smell gas in my oil when I do my oil change, then I know my piston rings are gone. If not, then I think I'll have hope in raising the compression in cylinder 5 and 6 by simply changing the head gasket.

Want me to take the cams off your hands still?

 

I smell an ITB project without NOS injection coming up

 

these are the words i didn't want to hear.

 

fuck

 

dang Cris, another downtime. Hope your ride will get well soon...

 

damn man, that's really shitty to hear.

I'm guessing that without a direct port setup it wouldn't be safe to spray that much on this engine again.

the way the intake manifold is designed makes it so that cylinders 3 and 6 would probably get most of hte nitrous, and with the butterfly valve on the CLS manifold it pushes a bit more on those bac 3 cylinders (4,5,6) when it opens.

man I really feel for you.

 

direct port, and a whole new top end, valves, and all........custom built I would do it that way and go for it all