twizy

I went to Autozone and they diagnosed my check engine light with code P1259. They said the air/fuel ratio was bad. I replaced both oxygen sensors and put in new plugs/wires last week. Has anyone else encountered this error? If so, what did you do to fix it? Thanks in advance!

TexasHonda

BAT Trouble Codes

Attached link says P1259 is a VTEC malfunction. Do you have any drivability symptoms? A failed Vtec solenoid valve would not be detectable from engine performance unless you drive hard.

Did you see this code yourself? You might want to recheck the code.

good luck

twizy

Yes, I saw the computer screen and it displayed P1259. Are you suggesting that I may have a bad vtec solenoid? I didn't detect any driveability symptoms. When the check engine light came on the car felt a bit more sluggish though. Would you know how much a new solenoid costs? Thanks.

zhouz

wheres your oil level at? i dont know but a few people have mentioned something about oil level and vtec problems.

if it wasnt a vtec problem and instead an air/fuel but you already changed sensors and plugs, perhaps the injectors or some other part of the fuel system is clogged/not working.

subbuzz

throwing the same code,any fix?where to start?

subbuzz

you can notice it when you drive hard,i sometimes got no tec in 3rd, also at times when i floor it it's a slug.can this be an electrical issue?
a p1259 is prob in the rear correct?

twizy

I got a fresh oil change too, 4 quarts plus some oil treatment last week. Last thing I will do is fuel injector cleaner but I doubt that is the problem. Funny thing is the check engine light came on while I was driving at 25MPH only at 1500 RPM. I wasn't pushing the engine at all. Any other ideas?

TexasHonda

Obd1 Code 22 is the equivalent of Obd2 P1259. (See BAT link). On earlier model Accords, code 22 is an electrical failure of the Vtec pressure switch. This switch is normally closed. You need a shop manual for your model to confirm above.

Disconnect the connector to the switch (it's just below the vtec solenoid on 94 Accord) and check for continuity across the switch. If it's open, the switch is defective and should be replaced. That's why the ECU would post a code even though you were driving in the normal vtec OFF mode. ECU recognized that commanding vtec was inappropriate and set CEL.

Note, that a bad electrical connection or damaged (open) wire would cause the same result. So if the vtec switch checks OK, then look for wiring or connector damage.

good luck

twizy

Is Vtec pressure switch = Vtec oil pressure switch? How difficult is it to replace the switch? Are any special tools required? I'd like to just replace it if its easy to do. I went to the Acura dealer last weekend and they are asking $99 to diagnose the check engine light and $400 for labor to replace a defective switch if thats the problem (they quoted $78 for the pressure switch, does that sound about right?). Gotta love stealerships.

TexasHonda

Yes, the oil pressure switch is the Vtec pressure switch.

It only takes a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) to check the pressure switch. If it's good VOM will show a short (zero resistance). If it's bad it will show open (infinite or max resistance on gauge). Pressure switch screws out and probably requires a 17 or 19mm combination wrench, or deep socket to remove.

I don't know where the switch is on your car. If it's a 2.2CL, the switch is readily accessible, or at least is on Accord 2.2L Vtecs.

good luck

twizy

Sorry for the constant barrage of questions, I really appreciate your help TexasHonda. How exactly do I perform the meter test? Do I just take the positive and negative wire probes from the VOM and place them on the pressure switch to check for resistance? Or would I test them on the wiring?

TexasHonda

Resistance must be checked across the connector contacts w/ the connector released from wiring harness.

good luck

twizy

Last question, on the Accord is the vtec pressure switch accessible from under the hood or do you have to open up the head to access it? Thanks.

TexasHonda

Open the hood and have a look. It's readily accessible on Accords.

good luck

twizy

Ah, one last question.. is the oil pressure switch the same as the oil pressure sensor? Thanks Texas..

TexasHonda

No.

regards

wilp99

i sent a pm to dude man earlier about this.. there is 2 different pressure switches.. the one for vtec is attatched to the housing where the vtec solenoid is, and the regular oil pressure switch is located on the housing that the oil filter goes on. both are readily accessable, and no special tools required to replace. good luck pimpin...

twizy

Thanks wilp, replied to your PM. I'm thinking the pressure switch may be fine but something else is definitely not.

TexasHonda

Pressure switch shows closed when checked for resistance?

regards

wilp99

i think its the rear main oil seal with as much oil as your losing.. i explained more in the pm.. try and cut and paste it so people can see. i forgot to.

twizy

Texas: I havent had a chance to check the pressure switch. However, with the amount of oil I'm losing my focus has shifted from check engine light aggravation to oil containment. This is what Wilp had to say regarding the issue in response to my PM to him:

Me-

My car has VTEC, its a '99 2.3L (5-speed w/120k mi). Im trying to pinpoint whats wrong with it. Its eating up a LOT of oil but its not leaking it. It burned 4 quarts in 2 weeks. I first thought my oil pressure switch was bad but now i think the switch is working fine, its my oil pressure that is bad. After reading another thread, I think my valve seals or rings may be bad. I noticed that when I filled up with 4 quarts of oil and start driving around, a LOT of smoke was coming from my exhaust. I'm not sure what this could mean. Do you have any input or experience with oil burning?

Wilp's response-

the 2.x motors have been known to loose the main oil seal on the engine. unfortunate for you its pretty expensive since the tranny has to come off. so if you have a stick, it will be cheaper to have someone change the clutch while its off. also do a compression test on the engine that will tell you if your rings are done. valve guide seals usually leak (when bad) until the car is warmed up. they could be totally gone but its pretty unusual. and if your burning that much oil, my guess would be the rear main oil seal. sorry to be the bearer of bad news pimp..

twizy

Some stuff I forgot to add:

Thanks Wilp, your input will help me a LOT financially. I was going to replace the clutch so hopefully I can add this into the labor charges at a lesser rate. Any idea how much a main oil seal runs? If the seal + labor runs me over 500 I may just swap to H22a. The crappy part is I just got 2 brand new O2 sensors installed and an AEM CAI which I don't think is compatible with the H22a throttle body is it? Anyway, I will visit my shop this weekend and tally up the charges. I'll let you guys know the verdict.

wilp99

the actual seal is only like 10$ im pretty sure the h22 tb will work on a f2x intake. its alittle bigger. but the cai should still work. people use the same one when they swap the h22 in. and heres a cheap clutch place. www.clutchcityonline.com good luck pimp.

SwervinCL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...57380046QQrdZ1

If your looking for a clutch.

twizy

Just found out the car leaks a tiny bit of oil on the passenger side front. Will replacing the main oil seal fix this or is there another seal that I should replace while I'm getting all the labor done? Thanks in advance.

TexasHonda

I would check the PCV system to be sure oil is not being pulled from crankcase into the intake through the PCV air inlet.

Replacing all the valve stem seals is a big job and will set you back over $500 (my guess). I would want to check engine condition (compression, cylinder leak down, and oil pressure) before doing this job to be sure the engine doesn't need an overhaul.

A small main crankshaft oil leak should not be fixed in my opinion. You could spend a lot of money on this and perhaps wind up w/ more leakage than you have now. Perhaps a can of "stop leak". Try reading the forums "bobistheoilguy.com" for tips on good oil seal products.

Are you original owner of the car and has it had regular service? If yes, I might ask Honda for some help on the engine if it needs major work (valve stem seals or overhaul). Worth a try.

good luck

wilp99

stop leak is whack, besides seafoam theres no meracle in a bottle. but like he said if its a small leak, like its just wet dont worry bout it. the main oil seal is between where your tranny meets the engine.. if your car has oil drippinf from this area while running thats where the leak is. do the valve guide seals only if your inneed of a timing belt too. but like i said before when they leak your usually only burning oil for the first 5 min of runtime of the car, till they heat up and expand. do a compression test, and see if you need an overhaul.

twizy

I purchased the car used about a month ago. I didn't have a mechanic check it out beforehand so I took a chance. Looks like I have a handful of trouble now. I definitely won't be doing an engine overhaul, H22a swap is a much better alternative IMO. I can live with a small leak, I'll probably try no leak in a bottle. The oil burning is what really concerns me. I'm trying to limit anymore financial pain from the car. I guess if after replacing the main oil seal, the car still smokes heavily, I will consider taking the dive for an H22a swap or maybe consider selling the car outright. Stay tuned for results.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Just do the h22 swap

twizy

I checked the oil pressure switch just now with a VOM and there is 0 resistance across the connectors so I think the switch is functioning as intended. Meanwhile, CEL keeps popping up everytime I reset my ECU. Question regarding CEL code 1259. Will such code appear if engine is low on oil in general or will ECU give a different code? Thanks.

Bertelicious

My 99 2.3CL just popped this same code. It had been running oddly since I purchased it but I figured it just needed a tune up and other preventive maintenance. Anyway, I replaced the fuel filter and it runs a lot smoother now but still stumbles anywhere from 2500 RPM to redline. I am not completely sure if VTEC is even kicking in because of the hesitation during accelleration.

The description on the code reader said something about air/fuel delivery issue but I dont remember the exact description and every place I called for it did not have a clue as to what I was asking.

So, Im gonna have to print out this thread and figure out what is wrong with my shit too.
Thank you to all you knowledgable people out there.