Any1 with actual knowledge about crank pulley on f22b1
10-10-2003, 09:47 AM
#1
AWD Torque Monster
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Any1 with actual knowledge about crank pulley on f22b1
I want to pick up an Unortodox Racing pully set which includes the crank. i have had the aem for 2 years and never any probs, but im still using the oem crank pulley. as far as changing the oem crank pulley does this seem right? i know many ppl say not to get it but they dont actually have the pulleys and those who do say they have no probs and they are worth it. $200 for 5-8hp would be a nice liitle gain for my 2.2. thanx.
this is off unorthodox's website
4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When motor failures occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
this is off unorthodox's website
4) "Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?"
People are getting the pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some V6 / V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term that is used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper, hence the merging of the two terms. None of the applications that we offer utilize a counterweight as part of the pulley as these engines are internally balanced.
The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley that looks similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress natural vibration and noise from the engine itself, the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to note that in these applications, this elastomer is somewhat inadequate in size, as well as life span, to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some of the imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda, the Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's, to mention a few. This is not to say that with our pulleys you will hear a ton of noise or feel more vibration from your engine compartment. Most who have installed and driven a vehicle with our pulleys will notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is a natural result of replacing the heavy steel crank pulley with a CNC-machined aluminum pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.
The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as stroke, displacement, inline, V configurations, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur.
Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about the pulleys. When motor failures occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand the crank pulleys better.
10-10-2003, 09:56 AM
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I know you asked for people with experience with crank pullies, and I want to say that I am not. I do have under drive pullies, which as we all know are not the same. I have read on many websites and even some different forums that putting an aftermarket crank pulley will reduce the longevity of your engine. It does give your engine more hp and some people have said it makes the car run smoother. But the majority of the things I’ve read about them say that they will shorten the life of your engine. I do not know of this first hand, but even the mechanics that I’ve talked to said they wouldn’t recommend it, that it’s “just not worth it”. but try it out and if your engine dies get an h22!!! lol
10-10-2003, 10:31 AM
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maybe ill just sell my aem v1 and get a v2, and get a car sound cat. i would like to get another 10hp under the hood. if i can find a good shop with a dyno i knwo a cam gear is cheap and good for about 3-4hp. those 3 things should net some more tq and hp. espically since i already have header and cat back
10-10-2003, 11:45 AM
#4
ENGAGE MY VTEC BABY!!!!!!
hey mike, those pulleys have had good responses on the cl, on the 2.2 and the 3.0. but however the aem doesnt have the harmonic balencer, but the UR ones do, which makes it better for the car and makes the car not make that sweeking noise that they do from aftermarket pulley like the cheap ones and some poorly manufactured aem ones
i would rust the UR ones, my local performance shop guy stands by their products and uses them in both his car, a accord and a civic.
i would get the get but however i would get the crank, i have heard the other ones dont make that much of a difference. if you put one of these on the car i would recommend getting a better battery like a optima yellow top but not red though, something about decycling...i cant remember but anyways also i would upgrade you alternator if you do the pulley set
hope this helps, good luck
i would rust the UR ones, my local performance shop guy stands by their products and uses them in both his car, a accord and a civic.
i would get the get but however i would get the crank, i have heard the other ones dont make that much of a difference. if you put one of these on the car i would recommend getting a better battery like a optima yellow top but not red though, something about decycling...i cant remember but anyways also i would upgrade you alternator if you do the pulley set
hope this helps, good luck
10-10-2003, 12:30 PM
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AWD Torque Monster
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Originally posted by 97Acura3.0CL
i would get the get but however i would get the crank, i have heard the other ones dont make that much of a difference. if you put one of these on the car i would recommend getting a better battery like a optima yellow top but not red though, something about decycling...i cant remember but anyways also i would upgrade you alternator if you do the pulley set
hope this helps, good luck
i would get the get but however i would get the crank, i have heard the other ones dont make that much of a difference. if you put one of these on the car i would recommend getting a better battery like a optima yellow top but not red though, something about decycling...i cant remember but anyways also i would upgrade you alternator if you do the pulley set
hope this helps, good luck
10-10-2003, 01:21 PM
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I've got the setup your thinking about getting on my 3.0 (aem ps/alt pullies with the ur crank pulley) I've had this setup for 8 months. No problems, no dead batteries, no dead alternators. I highly recommend the UR crank pulley, it is a nice piece of work. The only problem is the stock crank pulley is a bitch to get off.
10-10-2003, 02:00 PM
#7
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Originally posted by q2slinger
I've got the setup your thinking about getting on my 3.0 (aem ps/alt pullies with the ur crank pulley) I've had this setup for 8 months. No problems, no dead batteries, no dead alternators. I highly recommend the UR crank pulley, it is a nice piece of work. The only problem is the stock crank pulley is a bitch to get off.
I've got the setup your thinking about getting on my 3.0 (aem ps/alt pullies with the ur crank pulley) I've had this setup for 8 months. No problems, no dead batteries, no dead alternators. I highly recommend the UR crank pulley, it is a nice piece of work. The only problem is the stock crank pulley is a bitch to get off.
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