98 CL M7ZA Transmission rebuild (Help Please)
#1
98 CL M7ZA Transmission rebuild (Help Please)
I have just finished a rebuild of my CL's transmission which is a M7ZA. Car has 105,000 miles and has been treated well since I have had it. 7 years now. Transmission started having typical flares and then slipping and banging from 1st to 2nd after driving for approximately 20 to 30 minutes. Before it warmed up it would shift fine and not slip at all. I figured that it was do for a rebuild due to the typical burnt second clutches and clogged filter. I disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and inspected every part and replaced frictions and steels, bonded pistons and all sealing rings and o-rings. I took my time (4 days) to understand and fit every part together several times before final assembly. I cleaned valve body and purcased bench buddy brushes and made sure everything worked smoothly. I installed a new torque converter and filled trans with 7 1/2 quarts of Honda fluid. I will shift into reverse, can hear gear engage, will hold, but slips if throttled. Shifting into D4 results in nothing, most times. D3 same as D4. D2 enages normally. D1 engages normally. Then moving selector to D3 or D4 sometimes engages normally. When I first pulled out of my garage, I drove it around the block in D4 and it shifted 1-2-3, then came to stop light and felt like neutral. I put in D2 and continued around the block back into garage. I did bench check and clean solenoids. Double checked all connections on solenoids, etc. Any thoughts would be helpful. Trying to figure out if there is a solenoid that would cause all these problems.
#2
One custom CL
Sounds like a solenoid problem to me. If you have the time i would rip the entire thing apart and replace whatever is needed on inspection. There is a manual on here somewhere on a full car repair.
#3
I removed the transmission and disassembled. I inspected every part over again, What I found was the oil tubes in the case cover that are held in snap ring had partially come out. Snap ring must have not been fully seated. As a result the disk was cocked and the o-ring was distorted causing massive pressure leak to clutches. I have fixed the issue and have re-inspected the valve body, clutches, etc. I have installed in car tonight and will update on the progress and result soon.
#4
UPDATE
Transmission was re-installed and it is working perfectly now going on three weeks and 1000 miles. The only problem on the rebuild was the oil tubes I the case end cover. I did not have the O-rings installed properly in the cover resulting in tube retainer and snap ring not seating properly. This caused a massive internal pressure leak with very little apply pressure to the clutches. Good thing is that I didn't try to drive it like this and no damage was done. Just needed a couple of case gaskets.
Transmission was re-installed and it is working perfectly now going on three weeks and 1000 miles. The only problem on the rebuild was the oil tubes I the case end cover. I did not have the O-rings installed properly in the cover resulting in tube retainer and snap ring not seating properly. This caused a massive internal pressure leak with very little apply pressure to the clutches. Good thing is that I didn't try to drive it like this and no damage was done. Just needed a couple of case gaskets.
#5
Congrats on the successful repair. I just picked up a 98 CL yesterday for my daughter's first car, and it appears I was seriously deceived on the condition. I have a flashind D4 indicator light, and seem to have only 2nd and 3rd gears. On test driving, the transmission shifted in all gears. Anyway, I am a capable enough mechanic to tackle repairs. May I ask where you got your repair information?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
Intermediate
If the D4 is flashing it is possible it could be you're Shift Solenoid. Try and google D4 Flash Codes and based on how may times it flashes it will list what's wrong, hope this helps!
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rp_guy
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07-16-2017 07:33 AM