97 Turbo F22
01-31-2008, 06:36 PM
#3
Why care for opinions if you don't mind me asking?
Are you looking for them to tell you if it was worth it or not, etc...Also, a lot of the members that I remember of, are no longer here. I can only think of one up North, but I have no idea who it was, so I doubt he posts often.
Are you looking for them to tell you if it was worth it or not, etc...Also, a lot of the members that I remember of, are no longer here. I can only think of one up North, but I have no idea who it was, so I doubt he posts often.
01-31-2008, 06:40 PM
#4
Just wondering, out of curiosity's sake. It seems more popular to do swaps then to mod the stock 2.2 engine. I don't have the time, know how, or money to do any projects like this. How's that J35 running? I just ran into your whole swapping process thread the other day, that's sick man.
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01-31-2008, 07:22 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Cocoa
Ah, alrighty then. I just get bothered when individuals get discouraged by opinions. To be honest, it happened to me. And ever since, it's what fueled my rage to do the swap in my car.
ahh, sweet sweet dreams.
01-31-2008, 10:18 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by Dicorp
blenz is building a turbo f22. check his threads
He's one of the only ones that did the f22, most people do the h22 and a few have done turbos on those
02-07-2008, 09:35 AM
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F22s were practically made for boost with the ductile iron sleeves and low compression ratio. You can even bolt up and use a lot of older turbo DSM (eclipse/talon) parts with very minimal changes (see this how-to I pulled from CB7tuner). I sometimes wish that I built my f22a6 for boost instead of swapping an H22 in my 93 accord. It would have been cheaper but less reliable. I still have my old motor with the hopes of someday building a budget boost project. 
02-07-2008, 11:17 AM
#14
Originally Posted by keithseymour
F22s were practically made for boost with the ductile iron sleeves and low compression ratio. You can even bolt up and use a lot of older turbo DSM (eclipse/talon) parts with very minimal changes (see this how-to I pulled from CB7tuner). I sometimes wish that I built my f22a6 for boost instead of swapping an H22 in my 93 accord. It would have been cheaper but less reliable. I still have my old motor with the hopes of someday building a budget boost project.
02-08-2008, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by starboy2nv
are you saying the f22 would have been less reliable? if so explain... thanks!
Basically, stock f22s boosted (low boost making ~ 180WHP) aren't as reliable as a stock H22 making similar power from the factory.
02-11-2008, 10:17 PM
#17
Originally Posted by keithseymour
I am saying a boosted f22 can be less reliable than an h22. My reasoning is that an f22 didn't come from the factory making 200 (or more depending on the settup) HP but the h22 did. The boosted f22 route, IMHO, requires more maintenance and needs more attention than swapping the h22 (the right tune, possible oil leaks from tapping into oil pan, boost leaks, etc.) However, I had an incredibly horrible experience because I didn't swap that effin h22 auto tensioner out :angryfire . If my accord was a project car and not my DD, I would have gone the budget turbo build route with the f22 (even with the 200,000+ mileage I had on it) because f22s are a dime a dozen to pick up if something goes wrong.
Basically, stock f22s boosted (low boost making ~ 180WHP) aren't as reliable as a stock H22 making similar power from the factory.
Basically, stock f22s boosted (low boost making ~ 180WHP) aren't as reliable as a stock H22 making similar power from the factory.
02-11-2008, 11:57 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by keithseymour
I am saying a boosted f22 can be less reliable than an h22. My reasoning is that an f22 didn't come from the factory making 200 (or more depending on the settup) HP but the h22 did. The boosted f22 route, IMHO, requires more maintenance and needs more attention than swapping the h22 (the right tune, possible oil leaks from tapping into oil pan, boost leaks, etc.) However, I had an incredibly horrible experience because I didn't swap that effin h22 auto tensioner out :angryfire . If my accord was a project car and not my DD, I would have gone the budget turbo build route with the f22 (even with the 200,000+ mileage I had on it) because f22s are a dime a dozen to pick up if something goes wrong.
Basically, stock f22s boosted (low boost making ~ 180WHP) aren't as reliable as a stock H22 making similar power from the factory.
Basically, stock f22s boosted (low boost making ~ 180WHP) aren't as reliable as a stock H22 making similar power from the factory.
For an H22 you get 200HP, not even wheel HP for about 2500-3000 dollars. with that money you can run a budget boost project and get 60 HP on low boost which is like 6psi. So 160 +60 = 220HP as compared to 200 with the opportunity to get even more power by simply turning up the boost. There are guys on the CB7 forum running DSM turbo budget projects on their 200,00 mile f22's and getting 220 to 280 HP on a simple setup.
The gotdamn block is IRON instead of the aluminum H22 block, holds up much better to boost, and they're relatively low compression. The stock block has been known to run just fine w/8 to 10 pounds of boost daily driven. And most of these projects are daily drivers.
They take the same amount of maintenance as you would put to maintaining any car if u want it to run right. If you don't take the time to do it right of course you're gonna have problems like a leaking oil pan tap or forgetting to put on an auto tensioner
. And if something does blow up? $450 bucks and ur right back to boosting with a new motor. Cant say the same for the H22. You gotta pay to play w/that motor. But if u really wanna go all out and boost a motor with forged internals and all of that, a build H22 turbo will have more potential in the long run and yield higher HP numbers than an F22 turbo.
02-12-2008, 12:01 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by keithseymour
F22s were practically made for boost with the ductile iron sleeves and low compression ratio. You can even bolt up and use a lot of older turbo DSM (eclipse/talon) parts with very minimal changes (see this how-to I pulled from CB7tuner). I sometimes wish that I built my f22a6 for boost instead of swapping an H22 in my 93 accord. It would have been cheaper but less reliable. I still have my old motor with the hopes of someday building a budget boost project.
02-14-2008, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Gnate
Who has turbo'd there first gen 2.2 cls?
I want personal opinions on the matter.
I want personal opinions on the matter.
02-14-2008, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by DaInFaMMuS1
Personally, I'm H22 biased cuz i've always wanted to open my hood and see DOHC, but after looking at the cost per Horsepower, if u invest the same amount of money it costs for an H22 swap for a low budget boost project, a boosted F22 will be waving bye bye to a swapped H22. It doesn't matter if it came from the factory making 200.
For an H22 you get 200HP, not even wheel HP for about 2500-3000 dollars. with that money you can run a budget boost project and get 60 HP on low boost which is like 6psi. So 160 +60 = 220HP as compared to 200 with the opportunity to get even more power by simply turning up the boost. There are guys on the CB7 forum running DSM turbo budget projects on their 200,00 mile f22's and getting 220 to 280 HP on a simple setup.
The gotdamn block is IRON instead of the aluminum H22 block, holds up much better to boost, and they're relatively low compression. The stock block has been known to run just fine w/8 to 10 pounds of boost daily driven. And most of these projects are daily drivers.
They take the same amount of maintenance as you would put to maintaining any car if u want it to run right. If you don't take the time to do it right of course you're gonna have problems like a leaking oil pan tap or forgetting to put on an auto tensioner . And if something does blow up? $450 bucks and ur right back to boosting with a new motor. Cant say the same for the H22. You gotta pay to play w/that motor.
But if u really wanna go all out and boost a motor with forged internals and all of that, a build H22 turbo will have more potential in the long run and yield higher HP numbers than an F22 turbo.
For an H22 you get 200HP, not even wheel HP for about 2500-3000 dollars. with that money you can run a budget boost project and get 60 HP on low boost which is like 6psi. So 160 +60 = 220HP as compared to 200 with the opportunity to get even more power by simply turning up the boost. There are guys on the CB7 forum running DSM turbo budget projects on their 200,00 mile f22's and getting 220 to 280 HP on a simple setup.
The gotdamn block is IRON instead of the aluminum H22 block, holds up much better to boost, and they're relatively low compression. The stock block has been known to run just fine w/8 to 10 pounds of boost daily driven. And most of these projects are daily drivers.
They take the same amount of maintenance as you would put to maintaining any car if u want it to run right. If you don't take the time to do it right of course you're gonna have problems like a leaking oil pan tap or forgetting to put on an auto tensioner
. And if something does blow up? $450 bucks and ur right back to boosting with a new motor. Cant say the same for the H22. You gotta pay to play w/that motor. But if u really wanna go all out and boost a motor with forged internals and all of that, a build H22 turbo will have more potential in the long run and yield higher HP numbers than an F22 turbo.
Only thing I have to add is when you boost an H22 in a heavy ass car like ours you will forever have unmanagable traction problems, unless you do some serious weight loss(free!) and suspention upgrades$$$. The only fun would be off a roll. And the cylinder walls on an H22 are thinner, so higher boost gets real risky, you could always sleeve the H22, but DAMN$$$$$ In the end it all boils down to the $$$.
02-14-2008, 11:37 AM
#22
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^^ You still never posted many pics of your turbo setup, we need more please
02-14-2008, 06:13 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by 97'CL2.2Turbo
SOHC 2.2 Turbo's are a blast! Mine dynoed, on a mustang dyno, 200hp/208 torque @ wheels. My bad, I need to post more.
02-15-2008, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DaInFaMMuS1
Personally, I'm H22 biased cuz i've always wanted to open my hood and see DOHC, but after looking at the cost per Horsepower, if u invest the same amount of money it costs for an H22 swap for a low budget boost project, a boosted F22 will be waving bye bye to a swapped H22. It doesn't matter if it came from the factory making 200.
For an H22 you get 200HP, not even wheel HP for about 2500-3000 dollars. with that money you can run a budget boost project and get 60 HP on low boost which is like 6psi. So 160 +60 = 220HP as compared to 200 with the opportunity to get even more power by simply turning up the boost. There are guys on the CB7 forum running DSM turbo budget projects on their 200,00 mile f22's and getting 220 to 280 HP on a simple setup.
The gotdamn block is IRON instead of the aluminum H22 block, holds up much better to boost, and they're relatively low compression. The stock block has been known to run just fine w/8 to 10 pounds of boost daily driven. And most of these projects are daily drivers.
They take the same amount of maintenance as you would put to maintaining any car if u want it to run right. If you don't take the time to do it right of course you're gonna have problems like a leaking oil pan tap or forgetting to put on an auto tensioner . And if something does blow up? $450 bucks and ur right back to boosting with a new motor. Cant say the same for the H22. You gotta pay to play w/that motor.
But if u really wanna go all out and boost a motor with forged internals and all of that, a build H22 turbo will have more potential in the long run and yield higher HP numbers than an F22 turbo.
For an H22 you get 200HP, not even wheel HP for about 2500-3000 dollars. with that money you can run a budget boost project and get 60 HP on low boost which is like 6psi. So 160 +60 = 220HP as compared to 200 with the opportunity to get even more power by simply turning up the boost. There are guys on the CB7 forum running DSM turbo budget projects on their 200,00 mile f22's and getting 220 to 280 HP on a simple setup.
The gotdamn block is IRON instead of the aluminum H22 block, holds up much better to boost, and they're relatively low compression. The stock block has been known to run just fine w/8 to 10 pounds of boost daily driven. And most of these projects are daily drivers.
They take the same amount of maintenance as you would put to maintaining any car if u want it to run right. If you don't take the time to do it right of course you're gonna have problems like a leaking oil pan tap or forgetting to put on an auto tensioner
. And if something does blow up? $450 bucks and ur right back to boosting with a new motor. Cant say the same for the H22. You gotta pay to play w/that motor. But if u really wanna go all out and boost a motor with forged internals and all of that, a build H22 turbo will have more potential in the long run and yield higher HP numbers than an F22 turbo.
I decided to go with the all-motor h22 for my accord settup just for the experience and becuuse, at the time, I had the money for it. I agree that price per hp is lower and I will go the boosted f23 route one day instead of the h22. F series motors are definately worth boosting. I know what I got myself into by swapping my h22 and I don't think I would go the same route again. What it really comes down to is the money and your preference.
Balla' status=popping the hood for everyone to see a shiney mugen header, a type-s valve cover, and an m2b4 tranny (my old settup).
Sleeper status=boosting an ugly, high mileage f-series with a black spray painted FMIC and seeing the balla's status guys' face when you pull on him (my future settup).
02-18-2008, 07:26 PM
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do I have to use photobucket or whatever? and im really sorry it takes me so damn long to post, i'm goin through a fuckin DUI right now so my life is hectic as hell, postin on forums isnt exactly on my list of things to do.
and if photobucket is the only way could someone gimme a quick rundown of how it works.
i have dyno results and pics i wanna show you guys but i need a lil help. sorry im an idiot, sometimes i cant stand myself..
and if photobucket is the only way could someone gimme a quick rundown of how it works.
i have dyno results and pics i wanna show you guys but i need a lil help. sorry im an idiot, sometimes i cant stand myself..
02-18-2008, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DaInFaMMuS1
How many pounds of boost r u running? I'd think you'd get better numbers that that, atleast 220 or so.
02-18-2008, 08:47 PM
#30
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Great pics man, great back drop as well. Engine bay looks clean. Great work
02-19-2008, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 972xghost
thats so sweet man. you got any sound clips.
it sucks our cars came with sooo much crap in the engine bay though.
it sucks our cars came with sooo much crap in the engine bay though.
Ima scan the dyno results later today and post those in this thread.
02-19-2008, 11:31 AM
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Nice Set up Dude.
I've been thinking off doing that to her. Our cars were really ahead of its time when they came out.
I wish honda had turboed it straight out the factory with sports suspension.
May I ask how much to do that set up. And i imagine it was originally 5 speed.
Mine is a auto mainly why i haven't tried it.
Man try to get a video clip of her whistling.
Keep it clean bro
I've been thinking off doing that to her. Our cars were really ahead of its time when they came out.
I wish honda had turboed it straight out the factory with sports suspension.
May I ask how much to do that set up. And i imagine it was originally 5 speed.
Mine is a auto mainly why i haven't tried it.
Man try to get a video clip of her whistling.
Keep it clean bro
02-19-2008, 12:13 PM
#35
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wow thats sexy. very clean and sleeperish except for the massive cooler up front. I'd paint that black lol. What exactly is your setup partswise? and how long have u been running this setup?
02-19-2008, 12:42 PM
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-Precision T3-T4 Turbo
-Greddy RS BOV
-South Florida Performance Manifold & 3" Downpipe w/ full 3" A'PEXi N1 Exhuast (Sounds Heavenly Deep)
-2.5" intercooler piping
-Lowered 2" w/ 4 New KYB Gas Shocks & Neuspeed Sport Springs (Needs Camber Kits Front & Rear for that Perfect Stance)
-ACT Stage 3 Clutch (2 months old)
-PSPEC Short Shifter (Not installed yet)
-Greddy Turbo Timer (Not Installed yet, but for now I babysit this baby after driving religously
-Tubonetics Evolution Wastegate & Custom Fabricated Dump tube
-DSM 450cc injecters (Stock Turbo Eclipse Injecters)
-163,000k Still Strong, Turbo has been installed since 158,000 & no smoke
I dont know if its true, ive never looked it up but i hear is isnt good to paint intercoolers. I would never do it cause i love all the looks it gets but thats what i heard.
Not tryin to start controversy but just so you guys know the only wheels that will ever replace these stockies are a new set of Bronze 16" Rota Circuit 8's.
-Greddy RS BOV
-South Florida Performance Manifold & 3" Downpipe w/ full 3" A'PEXi N1 Exhuast (Sounds Heavenly Deep)
-2.5" intercooler piping
-Lowered 2" w/ 4 New KYB Gas Shocks & Neuspeed Sport Springs (Needs Camber Kits Front & Rear for that Perfect Stance)
-ACT Stage 3 Clutch (2 months old)
-PSPEC Short Shifter (Not installed yet)
-Greddy Turbo Timer (Not Installed yet, but for now I babysit this baby after driving religously
-Tubonetics Evolution Wastegate & Custom Fabricated Dump tube
-DSM 450cc injecters (Stock Turbo Eclipse Injecters)
-163,000k Still Strong, Turbo has been installed since 158,000 & no smoke
I dont know if its true, ive never looked it up but i hear is isnt good to paint intercoolers. I would never do it cause i love all the looks it gets but thats what i heard.
Not tryin to start controversy but just so you guys know the only wheels that will ever replace these stockies are a new set of Bronze 16" Rota Circuit 8's.
02-19-2008, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by WineRed2.2CL
Nice Set up Dude.
I've been thinking off doing that to her. Our cars were really ahead of its time when they came out.
I wish honda had turboed it straight out the factory with sports suspension.
May I ask how much to do that set up. And i imagine it was originally 5 speed.
Mine is a auto mainly why i haven't tried it.
Man try to get a video clip of her whistling.
Keep it clean bro
I've been thinking off doing that to her. Our cars were really ahead of its time when they came out.
I wish honda had turboed it straight out the factory with sports suspension.
May I ask how much to do that set up. And i imagine it was originally 5 speed.
Mine is a auto mainly why i haven't tried it.
Man try to get a video clip of her whistling.
Keep it clean bro
02-19-2008, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gnate
Any surprising kills with that setup?
taken it to the track yet because i want to change my passenger wheel studs cause one day i was slammin the gears for fun and 3 of my driver side studs snapped in half. the guy who owned the car before must not have known all it takes is a torque wrench ($20) and
85 lbs. of pressure on the lug nuts. over torqing lug nutz is a fuckin pet peave for me, im
always slappin my buddies in the head for it now. i guess a wheel almost fallin off will do that to ya.